25m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Stunning positions, excellent rock and sound protection.
You can't go wrong - or can you? For the best experience, wait until it is in good condition and has had a bit of sun on it.
1) 5b, 5m. Traverse right along the fault-line, or drop down to sea level and back up, to a sloping ledge beneath the roofs.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb the intimidating roofed corner and the stamina draining groove above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Tim Dunsby 11.8.74 11/Aug/1974

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender.

stevoland 21/Jul AltLd dog

Brutal. Fell seconding the main pitch

Graham Westbrook 22/Apr Lead O/S

Fantastic route! Hard work all the way. Still a bit greasy at the bottom so it made the start harder.

with Gibbon
ian bryant ??/2015 -
jacobjlloyd 28/Oct/14 2nd rpt

Still bleeding hard!

with Andrea R
ian d f 03/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Led P1. P2 was very greasy, which detracted from the route and made it quite difficult.

with Paul K
Misha 17/May/14 Lead O/S

It was wet, so a memorable experience! Tricky diagonal ab in down the HVS line into a hanging stance - a proper sea cliff experience. The corner was wet but I fancied a challenge. I opted for the traverse, which was wet in places and hence pretty tricky, fortunately there was some gear. The corner was slimy wet to start with and pretty evil looking. Painful jams, both knees on and hidden thank-god hold got me over the first overhang, which was the crux, possible because it was the wettest! It gradually got less wet but was still damp and greasy until the top third. Some great positions - bridging out into space, back and footing and general weird contortions. Couple of hands off rests as well. Interest was maintained all the way but it got easier as it got drier! Never disperate apart from that first overhang but fairly hard in the conditions. E2 would probably be fair in the dry. When wet, it's an E2 that requires E3/4 ability! Sue got cold hands and had to fight before peeling off just before it got easier going into the final groove. This was the day of the van breakdown - doing this definitely salvaged the day!

with Sue
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd dog
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Sophie Nunn 29/Jun/13 AltLd rpt


with Richard
Luxulyan 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

All over mind/body epic, a real struggle. Awesome!

with Sophie
richiebongo 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
Didymus 05/Jun/13 2nd dog

19 years on ... and another desperate struggle! Mars 2, Jon 0.

with Rich
ianto ??/2013 -
Kevster 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
tonevert 18/Aug/12 2nd
with Kevin Faux
PAJames ??/2012 -
Jim Slater 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Bloody terrifying!

with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead
Tim M ??/2011 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 25/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex
AlexD 25/Oct/10 AltLd dog

immense! arms gave out seconding main pitch, most knackering route i have EVER been on!

with Sophie
Hidden 12/Jul/10 Lead
colkurtz ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 12/Jun/10 AltLd
Ed Babs 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ceridwen 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Wow! Amazing, the most mental second I have ever done!! Can't believe it used to be a HVS??!!

with Uber Mike
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Bern 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Andy Mos
jacobjlloyd 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S

First E2! Total epic when John fell off and learned to prussik alone in the void, the waves to loud for communicating, the rope over my leg. Lost the first few pages of my guidebook to the sea. Nearly went horribly wrong at the start, as I neglected to swing as I abseiled in, but managed to knot the end of the rope and throw it improbably into a crack to pull myself over to the belay...

with John Scarrott
feilx 22/Mar/09 2nd rpt

stunning, i'd forgotten just how dam good this is. Think we did a bit of variation by stepping out right into a corner system between mars and melpomene. Have to check the cc guide.

with Crazy Tom
Hidden ??/2009 -
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Different Steve 14/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led big P2. What a beast of a route!

with Simon Chandler
Chad123 09/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Can't believe this was ever HVS or E1 - utterly terrifying and sustained moves up an overhanging groove, fortunately with a few hands off rests as you go. Even the approach abseil and traverse are scary! Good though.....

with Emily
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
brian watson ??/2006 Lead dog
with scott titt
feilx ??/2005 -
timharrison 25/Jun/04 2nd dog

Outrageous, must lead one day!!!

pezzerrr 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S
strapless ?/May/03 2nd
with Paul Smart
craig h ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Paul Bentley
JasonG ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Mal Dickson
Ian JL ?/Jun/01 2nd O/S
with Duncan Henderson
westaway ??/2001 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S


with Karen Ghiselli
WB 14/Mar/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Ian Jones ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S

Fantastic **** classic.

with Karen Ghiselli
tradguy 18/Aug/96 2nd O/S
with Robin Mazinke
Marti999 ?/Aug/96 2nd O/S
with kev
timbanton ?/Apr/95 -
Hidden ?/Nov/94 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead O/S
Didymus 25/Jun/94 2nd dog

What a struggle for an E1 5a. Guidebook swallowed up by the sea!

with Rongor, Marcus
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1994 Lead
with jon didymus
Okecroak 30/Aug/93 Lead

E1 in those days, lost a number of wires on abseil

with J. Homewood
Okecroak 30/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
with G Scott
OMSKB 04/May/93 Lead

Went to pieces

with Richard Winfield
kp64zl ?/Feb/92 AltLd O/S
with Jason M
MoWalker3 10/Jul/91 AltLd
with Joe
steve taylor 03/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with Ket
Hidden 25/Jul/88 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S

Great E1

Nigel Coe 20/Jul/86 2nd dog

1 rest point

with Brian Wyvill
RichardMc 21/Jun/86 2nd
with Steve Gould
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Nevil ??/1985 Lead

Do not know year. Did it with John Lyle.

Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Nigel Coe 06/Jul/80 Lead

When graded HVS

with Steve Portnoi
Falko ??/1977 AltLd O/S

THis was the second ascent - according to Richard Crewe (and was HVS in those days).

with Howard Lancashire
Falko 04/Jan/75 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
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High E3
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