Dorset > Subluminal >
Mars*** E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Melpomene
Triton >>
[Pete on Mars (E1 5a), 3 kb]25m, 2 pitches. Stunning positions, excellent rock and sound protection. You can't go wrong - or can you? For the best experience, wait until it is in good condition and has had a bit of sun on it. 1) 5b, 5m. Traverse right along the fault-line, or drop down to sea level and back up, to a sloping ledge beneath the roofs. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb the intimidating roofed corner and the stamina draining groove above to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, Tim Dunsby 11.8.74 11/Aug/1974

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Pete on Mars (E1 5a) © Kafoozalem
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Frank the Husky - 2014

Sophie Nunn - AltLd rpt - 29/Jun/13 with Richard

All over mind/body epic, a real struggle. Awesome!
Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Sophie

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Jon Didymus

19 years on ... and another desperate struggle! Mars 2, Jon 0.
Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/13 with Rich

ianto - 2013

Kevster - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Tony

tonevert - 2nd - 18/Aug/12 with Kevin Faux

PAJames - 2012

Bloody terrifying!
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Trevor

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/11

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2011

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/10 with Alex

immense! arms gave out seconding main pitch, most knackering route i have EVER been on!
AlexD - AltLd dog - 25/Oct/10 with Sophie

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/10

colkurtz - 2nd - Jul/10 with Robb

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/10

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Wow! Amazing, the most mental second I have ever done!! Can't believe it used to be a HVS??!!
Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Uber Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Bern - 2nd - 09/Aug/09 with Andy Mos

First E2! Total epic when John fell off and learned to prussik alone in the void, the waves to loud for communicating, the rope over my leg. Lost the first few pages of my guidebook to the sea. Nearly went horribly wrong at the start, as I neglected to swing as I abseiled in, but managed to knot the end of the rope and throw it improbably into a crack to pull myself over to the belay...
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with John Scarrott

stunning, i'd forgotten just how dam good this is. Think we did a bit of variation by stepping out right into a corner system between mars and melpomene. Have to check the cc guide.
feilx - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/09 with Crazy Tom

Hidden - 2009

paulh1967 - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08

Led big P2. What a beast of a route!
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Simon Chandler

Can't believe this was ever HVS or E1 - utterly terrifying and sustained moves up an overhanging groove, fortunately with a few hands off rests as you go. Even the approach abseil and traverse are scary! Good though.....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Emily

Rob Kennard - 2007

dan gibson - 2006

Bern - 2006

brian watson - Lead dog - 2006 with scott titt

feilx - 2005

Outrageous, must lead one day!!!
timharrison - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/04 with Matt Perks

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/03

strapless - 2nd - May/03 with Paul Smart

craig h - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with Paul Bentley

JasonG - Lead O/S - 2003 with Mal Dickson

Ian JL - 2nd O/S - Jun/01 with Duncan Henderson

westaway - Lead O/S - 2001

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Ian Jones - Solo O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli

WB - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/99 with Guy

Fantastic **** classic.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with Karen Ghiselli

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/96 with Robin Mazinke

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - Aug/96 with kev

Hidden - Apr/95

Hidden - AltLd - Nov/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94

What a struggle for an E1 5a. Guidebook swallowed up by the sea!
Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/94 with Rongor, Marcus

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1994

E1 in those days, lost a number of wires on abseil
Okecroak - Lead - 30/Aug/93 with J. Homewood

Went to pieces
OMSKB - Lead - 04/May/93 with Richard Winfield

kp64zl - AltLd O/S - Feb/92 with Jason M

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 10/Jul/91 with Joe

steve taylor - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/89 with Ket

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/88

Great E1
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987

1 rest point
Nigel Coe - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/86 with Brian Wyvill

RichardMc - 2nd - 21/Jun/86 with Steve Gould

Hidden - Lead - 1985

When graded HVS
Nigel Coe - Lead - 06/Jul/80 with Steve Portnoi

THis was the second ascent - according to Richard Crewe (and was HVS in those days).
Falko - AltLd O/S - 1977 with Howard Lancashire

Falko - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/75 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alan100, Ciderslider, quiffhanger, JUSTADUDE, JCAshman, Mark Warnett, Matt250, Alex the Alex, andy dunn, givemetea, Master Chief, Hidden, pigeonslipper, CRiddiford, rustaldo, Hidden, wi11, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, benscarter, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, Graham Westbrook, JonBrown, andyfeds, deanroberts, timharrison, Siderunner, Kyuzo, Owen W-G

Total votes cast 50
hard E30 of 14
E30 of 14
easy E31 of 14
hard E22 of 14
E25 of 14
easy E22 of 14
hard E14 of 14
E10 of 14
easy E10 of 14
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c1 of 9
hard 5b4 of 9
5b3 of 9
easy 5b1 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars26 of 27
2 Stars1 of 27
1 Star0 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 66 (1.5%)
Lead25 of 66 (37.9%)
Followed15 of 66 (22.7%)
Alt Leads14 of 66 (21.2%)
Unknown11 of 66 (16.7%)

'Climbed'26 of 66 (39.4%)
clean O/S32 of 66 (48.5%)
clean rpt2 of 66 (3.0%)
dogged6 of 66 (9.1%)