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Mars*** E2 5b

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[Pete on Mars (E1 5a), 3 kb]25m, 2 pitches. Stunning positions, excellent rock and sound protection. You can't go wrong - or can you? For the best experience, wait until it is in good condition and has had a bit of sun on it. 1) 5b, 5m. Traverse right along the fault-line, or drop down to sea level and back up, to a sloping ledge beneath the roofs. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb the intimidating roofed corner and the stamina draining groove above to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, Tim Dunsby 11.8.74 11/Aug/1974

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Pete on Mars (E1 5a) © Kafoozalem
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

Led P1. P2 was very greasy, which detracted from the route and made it quite difficult.
ian d f - AltLd dog - 03/Jul/14 with Paul K

It was wet, so a memorable experience! Tricky diagonal ab in down the HVS line into a hanging stance - a proper sea cliff experience. The corner was wet but I fancied a challenge. I opted for the traverse, which was wet in places and hence pretty tricky, fortunately there was some gear. The corner was slimy wet to start with and pretty evil looking. Painful jams, both knees on and hidden thank-god hold got me over the first overhang, which was the crux, possible because it was the wettest! It gradually got less wet but was still damp and greasy until the top third. Some great positions - bridging out into space, back and footing and general weird contortions. Couple of hands off rests as well. Interest was maintained all the way but it got easier as it got drier! Never disperate apart from that first overhang but fairly hard in the conditions. E2 would probably be fair in the dry. When wet, it's an E2 that requires E3/4 ability! Sue got cold hands and had to fight before peeling off just before it got easier going into the final groove. This was the day of the van breakdown - doing this definitely salvaged the day!
Misha - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Sue

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/May/14

Frank the Husky - 2014

P1
Sophie Nunn - AltLd rpt - 29/Jun/13 with Richard

All over mind/body epic, a real struggle. Awesome!
Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Sophie

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Jon Didymus

19 years on ... and another desperate struggle! Mars 2, Jon 0.
Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/13 with Rich

ianto - 2013

Kevster - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Tony Johnson

tonevert - 2nd - 18/Aug/12 with Kevin Faux

PAJames - 2012

Bloody terrifying!
Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Trevor

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/11

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2011

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/10 with Alex

immense! arms gave out seconding main pitch, most knackering route i have EVER been on!
AlexD - AltLd dog - 25/Oct/10 with Sophie

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jul/10

colkurtz - 2nd - Jul/10 with Robb

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jun/10

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10

Hidden - 2010

Wow! Amazing, the most mental second I have ever done!! Can't believe it used to be a HVS??!!
Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Uber Mike

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

Bern - 2nd - 09/Aug/09 with Andy Mos

First E2! Total epic when John fell off and learned to prussik alone in the void, the waves to loud for communicating, the rope over my leg. Lost the first few pages of my guidebook to the sea. Nearly went horribly wrong at the start, as I neglected to swing as I abseiled in, but managed to knot the end of the rope and throw it improbably into a crack to pull myself over to the belay...
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/09 with John Scarrott

stunning, i'd forgotten just how dam good this is. Think we did a bit of variation by stepping out right into a corner system between mars and melpomene. Have to check the cc guide.
feilx - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/09 with Crazy Tom

Hidden - 2009

paulh1967 - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/08

Led big P2. What a beast of a route!
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Simon Chandler

Can't believe this was ever HVS or E1 - utterly terrifying and sustained moves up an overhanging groove, fortunately with a few hands off rests as you go. Even the approach abseil and traverse are scary! Good though.....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/07 with Emily

Rob Kennard - 2007

dan gibson - 2006

Bern - 2006

brian watson - Lead dog - 2006 with scott titt

feilx - 2005

Outrageous, must lead one day!!!
timharrison - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/04 with Matt Perks

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/03

strapless - 2nd - May/03 with Paul Smart

craig h - Lead O/S - Apr/03 with Paul Bentley

JasonG - Lead O/S - 2003 with Mal Dickson

Ian JL - 2nd O/S - Jun/01 with Duncan Henderson

westaway - Lead O/S - 2001

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Fanfuckingtastic
Ian Jones - Solo O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli

WB - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/99 with Guy

Fantastic **** classic.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Jun/98 with Karen Ghiselli

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/96 with Robin Mazinke

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - Aug/96 with kev

Hidden - Apr/95

Hidden - AltLd - Nov/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/94

What a struggle for an E1 5a. Guidebook swallowed up by the sea!
Jon Didymus - 2nd dog - 25/Jun/94 with Rongor, Marcus

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1994

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 1994 with jon didymus

E1 in those days, lost a number of wires on abseil
Okecroak - Lead - 30/Aug/93 with J. Homewood

Okecroak - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/93 with G Scott

Went to pieces
OMSKB - Lead - 04/May/93 with Richard Winfield

kp64zl - AltLd O/S - Feb/92 with Jason M

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 10/Jul/91 with Joe

steve taylor - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/89 with Ket

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/88

Great E1
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987

1 rest point
Nigel Coe - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/86 with Brian Wyvill

RichardMc - 2nd - 21/Jun/86 with Steve Gould

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 1985

Hidden - Lead - 1981

When graded HVS
Nigel Coe - Lead - 06/Jul/80 with Steve Portnoi

THis was the second ascent - according to Richard Crewe (and was HVS in those days).
Falko - AltLd O/S - 1977 with Howard Lancashire

Falko - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/75 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 53
hard E30 of 15
E30 of 15
easy E31 of 15
hard E23 of 15
E25 of 15
easy E22 of 15
hard E14 of 15
E10 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard 5c0 of 10
5c0 of 10
easy 5c1 of 10
hard 5b5 of 10
5b3 of 10
easy 5b1 of 10
hard 5a0 of 10
5a0 of 10
easy 5a0 of 10
3 Stars26 of 28
2 Stars1 of 28
1 Star1 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 73 (1.4%)
Lead29 of 73 (39.7%)
Followed16 of 73 (21.9%)
Alt Leads16 of 73 (21.9%)
Unknown11 of 73 (15.1%)

'Climbed'29 of 73 (39.7%)
clean O/S34 of 73 (46.6%)
clean rpt2 of 73 (2.7%)
dogged8 of 73 (11.0%)