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Behemoth*** HVS 5a

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[Simon, going for the crux move on the lower pitch of 'Behemoth', Boulder Ruckle, Swanage., 3 kb]40m, 2 pitches. A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in). 1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. A tricky move around an arete leads to a belay at the foot of the main corner. 2) 5a, 22m. Ascend the corner past a bulge, then climb the arm-blowing cracks to a rightward exit via a cleaned ledge. © ROCKFAX
FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Simon, going for the crux move on the lower pitch of 'Behemoth', Boulder Ruckle, Swanage. © purple sue
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 105 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

An exciting trip across the boulders courtesy of a spring tide and the remnants of bertha, 'hey sonia -surfs up!'. First pitch fine, missed the 5a. Second pitch a cruise, until the 'arm blowing crack', got a leg in the crack for a near no arms rest - needed it. Loads of pro. Nat cruised it and Sonia was throwing in some moves while Elvis here was busy thrutching.
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/14 with nat, Sonia

Wow, great fun getting to the route - and wow what a route! Terrifying but brilliant. What a great lead - thanks Mike :)
sonic46 - 2nd - 15/Aug/14 with Nat, Mike H

nige pacer - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/14 with Mike Lea

did as 3 pitches, led all of them. great route.
islandlynx - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Amy

funsized - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Fi

mc fifi - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Jonathan Pearson

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Nov/13

will moy - 14/Oct/13

will moy - 14/Oct/13 with paul taylor

Lead P2, awesome route
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/13 with Will I Am

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Rich Rogers

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - 2013

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Led P2 this time. Needed a rest when I dislodged an old bird's nest into my face. Great route.
Dave Mahon - AltLd - Oct/12 with Brian Mead

Led as one pitch
Kirill - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12

Great fun.
nickdonohue - Lead - Sep/12 with Ian Bryant

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/12

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with pep

Ian JL - 2012

Kevster - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Led P1, interesting and committing traverse to left at top. Holds are in abundance, hope they don't snap off... P2 is pumpy but loads of gear and holds.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - Oct/11 with Matt Jackson

Led P1
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Alan Blanchflower

Led P2. Whoa! "Arm blowing" cracks indeed! After repeated tries and downclimbs to the rest ledge, finally got to the top, totally pumped.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Julian Prieto

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

norb - 2nd - Jun/11

halfwaythere - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/11

Lead the first pitch ok, made a mess of the second pitch and rested on gear before struggling up the "arm-blowing cracks".
Rich K - Lead dog - 23/Jan/11 with Wayne Cheung

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/10

feilx - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Heather

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Floris

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10

cem - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10

Superb intimidating route. Soft for the grade though and loads of gear. Low tide is best for approach to avoid a paddle
PaulW - Lead - Sep/10

Led first pitch. Second pitch seems more 'full on' despite having an easier technical grade. Fabulous climb.
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Louisa

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/09

R led first pitch, i led the second. First pitch has a cute exposed move to exit the groove and pull around the arete to the belay. Exciting second pitch on good holds, fantastic positions, bit 'goey' for about 6m. One of my all time favourite HVS's.
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Roslyn

Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 12/Sep/09 with Sophie Nunn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/09

Wow, what a route!
Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Andy Mosienko

lead pitch 2 - stunning
uncontrollable - AltLd β - 09/Aug/09 with stewart, bob

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09

mark89 - AltLd - 17/Jun/09

Lead first pitch. Great route. Must lead second pitch
timharrison - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

Bern - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/08 with Sue Hazel

Lead 2nd pitch. Quite scary once you step round out of the corner. Sustained. Mike lead 1st pitch.
Rollo - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Mike

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08

Jane Weir - AltLd - 27/Sep/08 with Rich

Superb and not as strenuous as expected. Some cunning rests can be found.
maresia - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Rob Scheichl

Pulled off a hold, smashed my head in, fell off, bled all over the place, 6 stitches! Lovely route though.
steve taylor - AltLd dnf - 13/Sep/08 with Scott Titt

Led P2. Great pitch..
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Simon Chandler

bullybones - AltLd - Sep/08

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Lee Mercer

Took the steep and juggy top pitch - plenty of holds and plenty of gear
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Ed Babington

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/07

Dave led the first pitch (5b), I did the second, which should have been 5a. Managed to go off route near the top - probably no harder technically but loose and scary !
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 15/Sep/07 with Dave T

Never 5b to step around arete (5a if that), but perhaps 5b deserved for the steep finale. Some brilliant 3D climbing on P2 would've been much harder if it wasn't for the insitu threads. You can't question any of its' 3 stars.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Ned

Rob Kennard - 2007

chrisbevins - 2007

Fantastic Route. 5b move under the roof feels exposed and insecure but is over in no time. Top pitch is the best I've done - steep corner on big holds then arm blowing cracks to the top.
mutt - 05/Nov/06 with Naomi Moran

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with AJ

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/06

Hidden - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 2006 with scott titt

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/05

bigie bob - Lead O/S - Jul/05

Boxy - 2nd - 19/Feb/05 with Vince

feilx - 2005

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2004

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/03

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd dog - 2003

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

WB - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/98 with Guy

kp64zl - 2nd - Oct/97 with Roland, Roger

Fell off on second pitch, catching my belayer (Graham) unawares. He ended up with rope burns
cem - 2nd dog - Sep/96 with Neil Peck, Graham Dolman

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead - 1994

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 26/Sep/93 with Joe

kp64zl - Lead - Jan/92 with Matt H

jasper11 - 1990

steve taylor - AltLd - Aug/88 with Martin Stansbury

Dave Musgrove - 22/Feb/86

GuyM - 1985

Nigel Coe - 09/Sep/81 with Tim Dunsby

Nigel Coe - Lead - 07/Dec/80 with John Walmsley

2nd ascent and first free ascent (dispensed with 1 aid peg) - Richard Crewe present to confirm.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/75 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, lukerathmell, Matt250, RFWilkie, Hidden, tonevert, JCAshman, Hidden, budchawla, Andy Chubb, gilmourheid, Stroppy, Hidden, Steve27, Master Chief, pigeonslipper, Ciderslider, JonBrown, Graham C, Andre Clarke, johnpr, Barry Kerslake, SuseH, andybuckley, andyfeds, The_Boy_ODwyer, Hidden, tobydunford, Hidden, Hidden, timharrison, Hidden, Kyuzo

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard E10 of 42
E10 of 42
easy E10 of 42
hard HVS6 of 42
HVS34 of 42
easy HVS2 of 42
hard VS0 of 42
VS0 of 42
easy VS0 of 42
hard 5b0 of 14
5b1 of 14
easy 5b0 of 14
hard 5a0 of 14
5a9 of 14
easy 5a1 of 14
hard 4c1 of 14
4c2 of 14
easy 4c0 of 14
3 Stars32 of 36
2 Stars4 of 36
1 Star0 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent

Lead28 of 105 (26.7%)
Followed14 of 105 (13.3%)
Alt Leads46 of 105 (43.8%)
Unknown17 of 105 (16.2%)

'Climbed'40 of 105 (38.1%)
clean O/S50 of 105 (47.6%)
clean β1 of 105 (1.0%)
clean rpt10 of 105 (9.5%)
dogged3 of 105 (2.9%)
dnf1 of 105 (1.0%)