40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A well protected classic with a sensational top pitch. It follows the steep corner 30m right of Old Faithful (looking in).
1) 5a, 18m. Climb the crack and corner to a roof. A tricky move around an arete leads to a belay at the foot of the main corner.
2) 5a, 22m. Ascend the corner past a bulge, then climb the arm-blowing cracks to a rightward exit via a cleaned ledge. © Rockfax

FFA. Howard Lancashire, Falco Rech Jan/1975, FA. Richard Crewe, G.Smith 14/Nov/1971

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, Ultimate HVS ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Chris Sansum 20/Sep Lead rpt
with Tabi Leask
Hidden 20/Sep 2nd
tim.fairhall 17/Aug Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Sachi
jsmcfarland 17/Aug 2nd O/S

Tim led in one pitch in good style, what a brilliant route! The section moving around under the roof and getting round is pretty hard for HVS, there are a few good hidden holds though. No excuse not to lead climbs like this in 1 pitch if you have 60m ropes!

with Tim
AlexD 15/Aug Lead O/S

Finally got on this and it didn't disappoint - awesome rock and holds!

with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 15/Aug 2nd rpt
with Alex
LJC 08/Aug AltLd O/S


with Marion
elfka 12/May 2nd
with Will Graham, Joe Doherty
ian bryant ??/2015 -
mikehenesy 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

An exciting trip across the boulders courtesy of a spring tide and the remnants of bertha, 'hey sonia -surfs up!'. First pitch fine, missed the 5a. Second pitch a cruise, until the 'arm blowing crack', got a leg in the crack for a near no arms rest - needed it. Loads of pro. Nat cruised it and Sonia was throwing in some moves while Elvis here was busy thrutching.

with nat, Sonia
sonic46 15/Aug/14 2nd

Wow, great fun getting to the route - and wow what a route! Terrifying but brilliant. What a great lead - thanks Mike :)

with Nat, Mike H
nige pacer 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Lea
islandlynx 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

did as 3 pitches, led all of them. great route.

with Amy
AmyAmy 22/Jun/14 2nd
funsized 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Fi
mc fifi 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
will moy 14/Oct/13 -
will moy 14/Oct/13 -
with paul taylor
paultaylor 14/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, awesome route

mick1jones 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 14/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden ??/2013 -
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/12 AltLd

Led P2 this time. Needed a rest when I dislodged an old bird's nest into my face. Great route.

with Brian Mead
Kirill 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Led as one pitch

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Sep/12 Lead

Great fun.

with Ian Bryant
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead
Haydn Jones 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with pep
Ian JL ??/2012 -
Kevster 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1, interesting and committing traverse to left at top. Holds are in abundance, hope they don't snap off... P2 is pumpy but loads of gear and holds.

Julian Prieto 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Monkey_Alan 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Whoa! "Arm blowing" cracks indeed! After repeated tries and downclimbs to the rest ledge, finally got to the top, totally pumped.

Graham Westbrook 07/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
norb ?/Jun/11 2nd
halfwaythere 09/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Rich K 23/Jan/11 Lead dog

Lead the first pitch ok, made a mess of the second pitch and rested on gear before struggling up the "arm-blowing cracks".

with Wayne Cheung
Oli 23/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Pretty good value for HVS unless i got lost.

with Pete UKC
feilx 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
Sophie Nunn 07/Nov/10 2nd rpt
with Floris
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt
cem 26/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
tobydunford 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
PaulW ?/Sep/10 Lead

Superb intimidating route. Soft for the grade though and loads of gear. Low tide is best for approach to avoid a paddle

Hidden 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
givemetea 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Second pitch seems more 'full on' despite having an easier technical grade. Fabulous climb.

with Louisa
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd
LoopyLou 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

R led first pitch, i led the second. First pitch has a cute exposed move to exit the groove and pull around the arete to the belay. Exciting second pitch on good holds, fantastic positions, bit 'goey' for about 6m. One of my all time favourite HVS's.

with Roslyn
Ceridwen 12/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Ceridwen 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Wow, what a route!

with Andy Mosienko
uncontrollable 09/Aug/09 AltLd β

lead pitch 2 - stunning

with stewart, bob
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mark89 17/Jun/09 AltLd
timharrison 03/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch. Great route. Must lead second pitch

Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Bern 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Rollo 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Quite scary once you step round out of the corner. Sustained. Mike lead 1st pitch.

with Mike
Richard Horn 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Jane Weir 27/Sep/08 AltLd
maresia 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Superb and not as strenuous as expected. Some cunning rests can be found.

with Rob Scheichl
steve taylor 13/Sep/08 AltLd dnf

Pulled off a hold, smashed my head in, fell off, bled all over the place, 6 stitches! Lovely route though.

Different Steve 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great pitch..

with Simon Chandler
bullybones ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Ed Babs 09/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 09/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Took the steep and juggy top pitch - plenty of holds and plenty of gear

with Ed Babington
mike.moss ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 15/Sep/07 AltLd

Dave led the first pitch (5b), I did the second, which should have been 5a. Managed to go off route near the top - probably no harder technically but loose and scary !

with Dave T
Owen W-G 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Never 5b to step around arete (5a if that), but perhaps 5b deserved for the steep finale. Some brilliant 3D climbing on P2 would've been much harder if it wasn't for the insitu threads. You can't question any of its' 3 stars.

with Ned
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
chrisbevins ??/2007 -
mutt 05/Nov/06 -

Fantastic Route. 5b move under the roof feels exposed and insecure but is over in no time. Top pitch is the best I've done - steep corner on big holds then arm blowing cracks to the top.

with Naomi Moran
dan gibson 14/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
with AJ
AJ007 ?/Sep/06 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
brian watson ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with scott titt
Hidden 13/Sep/05 AltLd
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Boxy 19/Feb/05 2nd
with Vince
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 05/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
brew_guru ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd dog
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
WB 17/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Guy
kp64zl ?/Oct/97 2nd
with Roland, Roger
cem ?/Sep/96 2nd dog

Fell off on second pitch, catching my belayer (Graham) unawares. He ended up with rope burns

with Neil Peck, Graham Dolman
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
MoWalker3 26/Sep/93 AltLd
with Joe
kp64zl ?/Jan/92 Lead
with Matt H
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
steve taylor ?/Aug/88 AltLd
with Martin Stansbury
Dave Musgrove 22/Feb/86 -
GuyM ??/1985 -
Nigel Coe 09/Sep/81 -
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 07/Dec/80 Lead
with John Walmsley
Falko 04/Jan/75 AltLd O/S

2nd ascent and first free ascent (dispensed with 1 aid peg) - Richard Crewe present to confirm.

with Howard Lancashire
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Longsufferingropeholder, RobScarisbrick, Hidden, Bernie L, DanChad, mattprince, hutchay, lukerathmell, Matt250, RFWilkie, Hidden, tonevert, JCAshman, budchawla, Andy Chubb, gilmourheid, Stroppy, Hidden, Steve27, Master Chief, pigeonslipper, Ciderslider, JonBrown, Graham C, Andre Clarke, johnpr, Barry Kerslake, SuseH, andybuckley, andyfeds, The_Boy_ODwyer, Hidden, tobydunford, Hidden, Hidden, timharrison, Hidden, Kyuzo
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set