UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A tough start leads to some exposed climbing on the wall right of the big corner. Start under the roof directly below the corner.
1) 5c, 20m. Surmount the roof, then follow the corner more easily until a traverse right to a pillar can be made. Climb this to the faultline and belay on the right.
2) 5a, 18m. Gain a ledge above a bulge. Traverse left around the exposed arete to a groove-line which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Charman 2.9.1973. FFA. Arni Strapcans, Gordon Jenkin 12.8.1978.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buccaneer

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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