UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Bold and technical on both pitches. Recommended.
1) 6b, 18m. Climb up past a triangular niche - thread - and move leftwards to beneath a shallow groove. Boldly climb up it to the faultline. Belay on wires and a large cam over the roof.
2) 5c, 20m. Step left and go over the overhang and climb the wall to below a roof. Swing left and head up a bold face prior to moving right into a hanging exit groove. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy, P.Windall 30/Nov/1986.

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User Date Notes
Ellis Bird 22 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Thread is not there, but not required.
βeta?
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βeta: Thread is not there, but not required.

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
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Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
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Low E4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Zoolookologie

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Cattle Troughs)

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