36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
More strenuous than bold but with a committing start. Start 3m left of where the flat ledges drop away.
1) 6a, 18m. Climb the steep buttress just left of an arete to twin spikes. Cracks lead more easily to the fault-line.
2) 5c, 18m. Go rightwards into a curving groove and climb up it to a roof. Cross this to easier ground and finish slightly left. © Rockfax

FA. Crispin Waddy, P.Windall 05/Apr/1987


ClimberDateStyle
Andy Peak 1 01/May AltLd O/S

Very tired last route off the weekend almost sed no to giving it a go as it was spitting with rain and the wind was getting up. Theo led the hard pich climbing like a man possessed, I rattled my way up taking the gear out, had a good moan about His belay. I was convinced my pitch was going to be a 5c horror of lose rock and poor gear and a typical Swanage top out but this wasn't to be, good gear good rock and easy climbing on big jugs even the very top was fairly solid by a swan age standards

with Theo
theomoore 01/May AltLd O/S

Led the first pitch. Hard and pumpy, after the first cam I had two small nuts which I thought would come out if I fell. Held on for ages, got really really pumped and only just made the moves up to good holds. Probably would've decked/gone in the sea if I came off. Didn't have much chalk and the rock was a bit greasy. Felt like an e5 situation. Would be good to do it in a oner as there is nothing harder than 5b after the big break.

with Andy
Ed Babs 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf

More like "did not start"! Made a few moves up the buttress but too greasy and streny for me today.

with AlexD
dan gibson 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

P2

Hidden 13/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 13/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Would be better as one pitch.

feilx 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt

excellent hard start

with Andy L
La Mont 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Felix
Toby Dunn ?/Jul/10 -
with Andy Reeve
feilx 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Angus
ellis ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
richardrogers ?/Nov/88 Lead O/S

dossed in the tilley whim caves as we used to after seeing jon otway in bath i led both pitches of this cus crispin was angling to lead the whole of marmalata which i'm glad he did as it was way too bold for me

with crispin waddy
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 1
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set