Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A great first pitch that tackles the bold arete left of the massive corner of Scythe. The second pitch is loose - The Grim Reaper provides an alternative finish.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb to a small roof, then move right to a steep flake. Gain jugs above that lead to the arete from where technical and bold moves up the arete/wall gain the faultline. Belay a little higher on The Grim Reaper.
2) 5c, 18m. Head up rightwards to a roof on the arete. Pull over leftwards and finish past hollow rock up the exposed top wall. © Rockfax
FA. Crispin Waddy, John Alcock 05/Jun/1987.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 1 Mar, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: As I remember it from the FA, Pitch 1 was wonderful fingery climbing and pitch 2 was distinctly loose. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As I remember it from the FA, Pitch 1 was wonderful fingery climbing and pitch 2 was distinctly loose. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Barracuda
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)