Billy Pigg** E1 5b
[Monkey_Alan, 3 kb]33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great introduction into the art of roof thuggery with good gear.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the break in the roof and pull over it. Continue to the fault-line and step right to a belay ledge.
2) 4c, 18m. Follow a wall and groove to a roof. Go left then back right and climb a corner to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 28.7.68. FFA. George Hounsome 11.3.78 28/Jul/1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Monkey_Alan © Lawrence Dudley
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This climb is in 93 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Fairly steady when you have worked out where the holds are.
Oli - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/15 with Fred

Mark lowered off from the roof after a few attempts so pulled the ropes and went up on his gear to the roof (there are two jammed wires anyway, the top one was pretty rusty so backed it up). Took three goes to psyche up for it, downclimbing to the rest twice. The crux holds were getting damp in the evening air, which didn't help. The crux is committing to getting the feet up. Expected it to be a battle but turned out to be fine, got a bit of a hip jam which helped and a couple of stiff pulls got me to good jugs and a vertical position. Took a belay just above and seconded Mark up the 4c top pitch. Topped out just as it was getting dusky at 9.20pm!
Misha - AltLd β - 01/Aug/15 with Mark S

Got it 3rd go!
Sophie Nunn - AltLd dog - 30/May/15 with Alex, Brian

AlexD - AltLd β - 30/May/15 with Brian, Sophie

Such a thrill going though the roof & great exposure on the second pitch. The jugs not actually that hard to find if you look at the climb from the ground first.
felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 23/May/15 with Bernard

Really pissed as I so nearly had him - found the jugs, did the whole cut loose, but as soon as I tried to jam my left leg in it was all over - good ground up Charley !
Ciderslider - 2nd dog - 12/May/15 with charley

Proper thugy moves. Not strong enough to cut loose so ended up totally squashed with my legs bent double in the groove - toe/foot jam for my left leg and right was providing a knee/thigh/arse jam - was just too cramped to move any further. Fell off when my arms gave up, just couldn't get my legs up, ended up inverting on the way down. Lowered off, pulled the ropes to rest then somehow got it on my next go. Don't think I found "the jug" but most of the holds I tried felt okay. In the end I went up with a good two-finger lock for my left hand, low down with a pull up to an okay-ish hold for my right, got my legs jammed in so I could work my right hand up to a finger lock in the flake then left hand went up to a pinchy crimp which was enough to get my right leg up.. Felt more like 5c the way I did it but this really isn't my usual style of climbing which is why I'm chuffed to have got up it...
charley - Lead G/U - 12/May/15 with Mark

Didn't find any jug, ended up like the chap below, cutting loose off a poor finger jam. Was primed and ready to leave a comment here swearing blind this was E2 5c.... And then read I missed a (very un obvious) jug, feel like a tool. Really enjoyed the top pitch though, solid holds slightly left of the looser stuff.
Shane Willis - AltLd β - 23/Apr/15

ian bryant - 2015

Failed to find the obvious jug first time round spent ages stretching all over the place and ended up knackered. Second go went much better!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd RP - 28/Dec/14 with PeteUKC

Led second pitcb
halfwaythere - AltLd - 28/Dec/14 with ben

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Dec/14

Everyone is going on about some jug... all I managed was a dodge fingerlock to aid inverting into a hanging kneebar, which was much harder than the predicted 5b. Where is that jug then..?!
jacobjlloyd - 2nd β - 28/Oct/14 with Andrea R

P1. One ok stuck nut in the roof and a second forgotten nut and draw in situ. Pegs are long gone. Full prussic self rescue deployment when Ben fell off after removing the last gear.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with ben.richards

Fell seconding roof on P1, had to prussik up past the roof. Lead P2 clean
ben.richards - AltLd dog - 21/Sep/14 with Luca Celano

fell first time on roof. then nailed it. a 'big arm' route
Simon Allcock - AltLd - 20/Aug/14 with Wilki

led p1
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/14 with Paul K

Hard pull over but once you found the jugs it's all good. No fixed gear in the roof anymore.
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Prince

Lead 2nd Pitch, great route!!
mattprince - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Joe Doherty

Gavdee1 - 2nd dnf - 20/Jul/14 with Kev

Excellent - Ruckle's answer to flying buttress?
Kevster - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Gavin Dee

clipskipper - AltLd rpt - 29/Jun/14 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14

Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

andycash - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14 with Ash

JM - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Stevo

paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 16/May/14 with Will I Am

will moy - AltLd - 16/May/14 with paul taylor

Fell off crux, lowered to ground, reclaimed clean
Stuart Johnston - Lead rpt - 03/May/14 with Adam Ryan

Tough move through the roof for an E1
adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Stuart Johnston

Had to fight the roof, but otherwise fine
clipskipper - AltLd β - 03/May/14 with Ro

mike.moss - AltLd dog - 17/Nov/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Led P1. The jug is very difficult to find.
Kirill - AltLd dog - 17/Nov/13 with Mike Moss

Led P1. Clipped a fair few in situ rusty bits under the roof. Cut loose for about 1/2 a second at one point. Wild move but safe and easy if you can do a pull up on jugs.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Preston Matt

Owen made short work of the roof. Exhilarating move, pulling on big jugs. I led the second pitch which was straight forward but delicate because of the loose rock.
Matt77 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Owen

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Aug/13

Led P2. Fell off the crux on P1.
Julian Prieto - AltLd dog - 28/Jul/13 with Alan Blanchflower

Found the holds this time - but couldn't commit to cutting loose and pulling up.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd dog - 28/Jul/13 with Julian Prieto

Hidden - AltLd dog - 18/Jun/13

Impressive no-one else thinks this is hard E1, given all the failures.
johncoxmysteriously - AltLd - 02/Jun/13 with mike redmayne

Stuck under roof
mattc - 2nd dnf - 27/May/13

bigie bob - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Led P1. Undercut beneath the roof was wet, couldn't quite reach the jug. Ended up aiding around the roof.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd dog - 20/Apr/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Viskii Chicu

ianto - 2013

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with pep

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Iain

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/May/12

dickie01 - AltLd - 25/Mar/12 with Joe Heasman

DP1977 - Lead O/S - 2012 with David Potter

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11

P2 with Harry 20 jul 2008 P1 with tom
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Intimidating roof is a bit of a pussy cat once you find the MASSIVE jug
JonBrown - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Felix

feilx - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with jon brown

feilx - 2nd rpt - 21/Nov/10 with Mike Soldner

Got totally entangled in ropes on crux move and ended up hanging on lip of roof for half a minute trying to get out of the mess to be able to carry on moving up. Only just pulled through!
msoldn - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Felix

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10

All good clean Swanage fun!
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Sue Hazel

burly and intimidating going through the roof
givemetea - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Helen King

Well, its perfectly described in the guidebook - an intro to the art of roof thuggery. Steady enough up to the break below the roof, and protectable in the break and roof if you have the right size camps. Thea had 5 bits of gear....which all held when she launched into the roof, feet cut loose, found a reasonable hold but couldnt oomph through the move to get established, and dramatically said "have you got me, i'm off". Off she was, and 5 mins later was back on, and burlied through it with more ease and a smile. I of course enjoyed every minute of it safe on second. Second pitch which i led was an anticlimax.
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Thea Williams

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

henbot - 2nd dog - 04/Jul/09 with Ben Bradford

Reachy through crux but great move, all good gear placements taken by dead gear but still a few spots. Had major rockfall at top, take care.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Anthony Ray

Bern - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Andy Mos

Hidden - 2009

feilx - 2nd rpt - 07/Dec/08 with Crazy Tom

Bit reachy through the crux over the roof, which I lead, finding all the decent cracks already full of dead gear. Apparently it's better if you pull up with your left hand! Good belay off to the right on two threads. Top pitch steep and quite loose, lead delicately and cautiously by Dave.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Davey Boy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 05/Nov/06 with eddie church

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/06 with jamie evans

Hidden - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

first E1 in the ruckle
brian watson - 2006 with scott titt

feilx - 2005

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

craig h - AltLd O/S - 25/May/99 with Glen S

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/98

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/96

Hidden - Lead - 1994

steve taylor - 1993

kp64zl - AltLd - May/92 with Jason M

Mark did the hard work leading through the roof!
ewjudge - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/91 with Mark Richards, Owen Howell

Nigel Coe - Apr/90 with Tim Dunsby

Robmwatt - 1990

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 08/Apr/84 with Pete Oxley

With aid on the roof, back when it was VS A1.
Nigel Coe - Lead - 01/Mar/80 with Frank Farrell

Dispensed withn the aid which the guidebook described at the time.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/78 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
yossarian714, hutchay, RFWilkie, ChrisBrooke, Ceridwen, trevor macalonan, Kyuzo

Total votes cast 81
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E21 of 28
hard E12 of 28
E123 of 28
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hard 5c0 of 27
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easy 5c3 of 27
hard 5b15 of 27
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