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Billy Pigg** E1 5b

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[Monkey_Alan, 3 kb]33m, 2 pitches. A great introduction into the art of roof thuggery with good gear. 1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the break in the roof and pull over it. Continue to the fault-line and step right to a belay ledge. 2) 4c, 18m. Follow a wall and groove to a roof. Go left then back right and climb a corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 28.7.68. FFA. George Hounsome 11.3.78 28/Jul/1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Monkey_Alan © Lawrence Dudley
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 77 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

P1. One ok stuck nut in the roof and a second forgotten nut and draw in situ. Pegs are long gone. Full prussic self rescue deployment when Ben fell off after removing the last gear.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with ben.richards

Fell seconding roof on P1, had to prussik up past the roof. Lead P2 clean
ben.richards - AltLd dog - 21/Sep/14 with Luca Celano

fell first time on roof. then nailed it. a 'big arm' route
Simon Allcock - AltLd - 20/Aug/14 with Wilki

led p1
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/14 with Paul K

Hard pull over but once you found the jugs it's all good. No fixed gear in the roof anymore.
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Prince

Gavdee1 - 2nd dnf - 20/Jul/14 with Kev

Excellent - Ruckle's answer to flying buttress?
Kevster - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Gavin Dee

clipskipper - AltLd rpt - 29/Jun/14 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14

Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

andycash - 2nd dog - 29/Jun/14 with Ash

JM - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Stevo

paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 16/May/14 with Will I Am

will moy - AltLd - 16/May/14 with paul taylor

Fell off crux, lowered to ground, reclaimed clean
Stuart Johnston - Lead rpt - 03/May/14 with Adam Ryan

Tough move through the roof for an E1
adam 24 - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Stuart Johnstone

Had to fight the roof, but otherwise fine
clipskipper - AltLd β - 03/May/14 with Ro

mike.moss - AltLd dog - 17/Nov/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Led P1. The jug is very difficult to find.
Kirill - AltLd dog - 17/Nov/13 with Mike Moss

Led P1. Clipped a fair few in situ rusty bits under the roof. Cut loose for about 1/2 a second at one point. Wild move but safe and easy if you can do a pull up on jugs.
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Preston Matt

Owen made short work of the roof. Exhilarating move, pulling on big jugs. I led the second pitch which was straight forward but delicate because of the loose rock.
Matt77 - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Owen

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Aug/13

Led P2. Fell off the crux on P1.
Julian Prieto - AltLd dog - 28/Jul/13 with Alan Blanchflower

Found the holds this time - but couldn't commit to cutting loose and pulling up.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd dog - 28/Jul/13 with Julian Prieto

Hidden - AltLd dog - 18/Jun/13

Impressive no-one else thinks this is hard E1, given all the failures.
johncoxmysteriously - AltLd - 02/Jun/13 with mike redmayne

Stuck under roof
mattc - 2nd dnf - 27/May/13

bigie bob - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Led P1. Undercut beneath the roof was wet, couldn't quite reach the jug. Ended up aiding around the roof.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd dog - 20/Apr/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Viskii Chicu

ianto - 2013

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with pep

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Iain

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/May/12

dickie01 - AltLd - 25/Mar/12 with Joe Heasman

DP1977 - Lead O/S - 2012 with David Potter

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11

P2 with Harry 20 jul 2008 P1 with tom
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Intimidating roof is a bit of a pussy cat once you find the MASSIVE jug
JonBrown - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Felix

feilx - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with jon brown

feilx - 2nd rpt - 21/Nov/10 with Mike Soldner

Got totally entangled in ropes on crux move and ended up hanging on lip of roof for half a minute trying to get out of the mess to be able to carry on moving up. Only just pulled through!
msoldn - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Felix

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10

All good clean Swanage fun!
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Sue Hazel

burly and intimidating going through the roof
givemetea - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Helen King

Well, its perfectly described in the guidebook - an intro to the art of roof thuggery. Steady enough up to the break below the roof, and protectable in the break and roof if you have the right size camps. Thea had 5 bits of gear....which all held when she launched into the roof, feet cut loose, found a reasonable hold but couldnt oomph through the move to get established, and dramatically said "have you got me, i'm off". Off she was, and 5 mins later was back on, and burlied through it with more ease and a smile. I of course enjoyed every minute of it safe on second. Second pitch which i led was an anticlimax.
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Thea Williams

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

henbot - 2nd dog - 04/Jul/09 with Ben Bradford

Reachy through crux but great move, all good gear placements taken by dead gear but still a few spots. Had major rockfall at top, take care.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Anthony Ray

Bern - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Andy Mos

Hidden - 2009

amazing
feilx - 2nd rpt - 07/Dec/08 with Crazy Tom

Bit reachy through the crux over the roof, which I lead, finding all the decent cracks already full of dead gear. Apparently it's better if you pull up with your left hand! Good belay off to the right on two threads. Top pitch steep and quite loose, lead delicately and cautiously by Dave.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Davey Boy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

first E1 in the ruckle
brian watson - 2007 with scott titt

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 05/Nov/06 with eddie church

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/06 with jamie evans

Hidden - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

feilx - 2005

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

craig h - AltLd O/S - 25/May/99 with Glen S

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/96

Hidden - Lead - 1994

steve taylor - 1993

kp64zl - AltLd - May/92 with Jason M

Mark did the hard work leading through the roof!
ewjudge - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/91 with Mark Richards, Owen Howell

Nigel Coe - Apr/90 with Tim Dunsby

jasper11 - 1990

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 08/Apr/84 with Pete Oxley

With aid on the roof, back when it was VS A1.
Nigel Coe - Lead - 01/Mar/80 with Frank Farrell

Dispensed withn the aid which the guidebook described at the time.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/78 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hutchay, RFWilkie, ChrisBrooke, Ciderslider, Ceridwen, trevor macalonan, Kyuzo

Voting
Total votes cast 72
hard E20 of 25
E20 of 25
easy E21 of 25
hard E12 of 25
E120 of 25
easy E12 of 25
hard HVS0 of 25
HVS0 of 25
easy HVS0 of 25
hard 5c0 of 24
5c0 of 24
easy 5c3 of 24
hard 5b13 of 24
5b7 of 24
easy 5b1 of 24
hard 5a0 of 24
5a0 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
3 Stars1 of 23
2 Stars21 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....1 of 23
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Style of ascent

Lead19 of 77 (24.7%)
Followed12 of 77 (15.6%)
Alt Leads36 of 77 (46.8%)
Unknown10 of 77 (13.0%)

'Climbed'21 of 77 (27.3%)
clean O/S33 of 77 (42.9%)
clean β2 of 77 (2.6%)
clean rpt8 of 77 (10.4%)
dogged11 of 77 (14.3%)
dnf2 of 77 (2.6%)