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Billy Pigg** E1 5b

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[Monkey_Alan, 3 kb]33m, 2 pitches. A great introduction into the art of roof thuggery with good gear. 1) 5b, 15m. Climb to the break in the roof and pull over it. Continue to the fault-line and step right to a belay ledge. 2) 4c, 18m. Follow a wall and groove to a roof. Go left then back right and climb a corner to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 28.7.68. FFA. George Hounsome 11.3.78 28/Jul/1968

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs.

Photo: Monkey_Alan © Lawrence Dudley
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

bigie bob - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Led P1. Undercut beneath the roof was wet, couldn't quite reach the jug. Ended up aiding around the roof.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd dog - 20/Apr/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Viskii Chicu

Couldn't manage the roof! led p2
Lawrence Dudley - AltLd dog - 20/Apr/13 with Viskil Chicu, Alan Blanchflower

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with pep

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Iain

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd dog - 29/May/12

dickie01 - AltLd - 25/Mar/12 with Joe Heasman

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11

P2 with Harry 20 jul 2008 P1 with tom
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11

Tom Thorne - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Ed babington

Intimidating roof is a bit of a pussy cat once you find the MASSIVE jug
JonBrown - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Felix

feilx - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with jon brown

feilx - 2nd rpt - 21/Nov/10 with Mike Soldner

Got totally entangled in ropes on crux move and ended up hanging on lip of roof for half a minute trying to get out of the mess to be able to carry on moving up. Only just pulled through!
msoldn - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Felix

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10

All good clean Swanage fun!
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/10 with Sue Hazel

burly and intimidating going through the roof
givemetea - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Helen King

Well, its perfectly described in the guidebook - an intro to the art of roof thuggery. Steady enough up to the break below the roof, and protectable in the break and roof if you have the right size camps. Thea had 5 bits of gear....which all held when she launched into the roof, feet cut loose, found a reasonable hold but couldnt oomph through the move to get established, and dramatically said "have you got me, i'm off". Off she was, and 5 mins later was back on, and burlied through it with more ease and a smile. I of course enjoyed every minute of it safe on second. Second pitch which i led was an anticlimax.
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Thea Williams

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

henbot - 2nd dog - 04/Jul/09 with Ben Bradford

Reachy through crux but great move, all good gear placements taken by dead gear but still a few spots. Had major rockfall at top, take care.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with Anthony Ray

Bern - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09 with Andy Mos

Hidden - 2009

amazing
feilx - 2nd rpt - 07/Dec/08 with Crazy Tom

Bit reachy through the crux over the roof, which I lead, finding all the decent cracks already full of dead gear. Apparently it's better if you pull up with your left hand! Good belay off to the right on two threads. Top pitch steep and quite loose, lead delicately and cautiously by Dave.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Davey Boy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

first E1 in the ruckle
brian watson - 2007 with scott titt

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 05/Nov/06 with eddie church

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/06 with jamie evans

davidjglover - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

feilx - 2005

Marti999 - AltLd - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

craig h - AltLd O/S - 25/May/99 with Glen S

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Mar/96

Mark did the hard work leading through the roof!
ewjudge - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/91 with Mark Richards, Owen Howell

Dispensed withn the aid which the guidebook described at the time.
Falko - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/78 with Howard Lancashire

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ChrisBrooke, Ciderslider, Ceridwen, Owen W-G, jamie ward, trevor macalonan, Hidden, Kyuzo

Voting
Total votes cast 47
hard E20 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard E10 of 16
E114 of 16
easy E12 of 16
hard HVS0 of 16
HVS0 of 16
easy HVS0 of 16
hard 5c0 of 15
5c0 of 15
easy 5c1 of 15
hard 5b7 of 15
5b6 of 15
easy 5b1 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a0 of 15
3 Stars1 of 16
2 Stars15 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead10 of 42 (23.8%)
Followed8 of 42 (19.0%)
Alt Leads18 of 42 (42.9%)
Unknown6 of 42 (14.3%)

'Climbed'10 of 42 (23.8%)
clean O/S22 of 42 (52.4%)
clean β1 of 42 (2.4%)
clean rpt5 of 42 (11.9%)
dogged4 of 42 (9.5%)