38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A truly magnificent climb that ascends the big narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets an extra star for the beauty of the line, though the climbing is just a touch dirty. Climb the corner crack to a bulge. Shift right into a parallel crack then back left into the main corner. Continue up the corner (peg) to the capping roof - superb large thread and resting place. Drop out and over to a strenuous exit crack. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.6.69. FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Richard Harrison 2.78 07/Jun/1969

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Thinker01 05/Sep Lead O/S

Lead both pitches after epic faff

tim.fairhall 18/Aug 2nd O/S

In one pitch

with Sachi
jsmcfarland 18/Aug Lead dog

Led as one pitch. Didn't find a lot of gear on the first pitch, carrying hexes definitely would have helped here! I was pretty shattered by the time I got to the cave, had a big rest in there and really should have backed up the in-situ tat which is looking a little green but I didn't bother, likewise with thread higher up. Just about got around the corner out of the cave onto the hanging face with a few power screams, nearly fell off then found a hidden sidepull (thank god!) and rested for a bit before falling off the weird fingerlock and polished/flared crack above the thread. Incredibly sustained, no way this is E2! I will come back for revenge next year.

with Tim
Shane Willis 23/Apr Lead O/S

Stood under this three times before I plucked up the courage to pull on. It was pretty intimidating. Great route though. Powerful and technical at the same time. Helps if you can jam. Easy and enjoyable up to the roof and then it gets meaty! Non stop from the roof to the top. But obviously that's why the routes so awesome : ) The tat in the upper section is probably ok but showing a little fraying at the edges.

Cheese Monkey 12/Apr Lead dog

Rich bailed so I was forced to give it a go. Top roped up to and around the most of the roof fine but couldn't pull through into the crack. Resorted to aid :(

with Rich R
pearson9596 11/Apr 2nd O/S
with Mark Condon, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 11/Apr Lead O/S

Led as one pitch. Had to hop up the second half after dislocating my left knee cap just past the first belay.

with Mark Condon, Michael P
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Bristoldave 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch

with Luke
jacobjlloyd 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Went a bit wrong after the roof but sorted it out in the end. Felt tough, but not that tough. Plenty of rests.

with Andrea R
Si dH 25/Oct/14 Lead dog

Took a whipper right at the top! Did it second go.

with Stuart Fox
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 01/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Andy
khalidq 20/Jul/14 2nd dog

Fell off (loss of concentration just before the roof) and had a prussiking job to do! Amazing route.

with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Felt quite hard for the grade

Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 01/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
Ash Sayers 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

Read the route wrong, went too far left after clipping tat. Surprised with the amount of friable rock!

andycash 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Ash
mike mo 21/Jun/14 Lead
with Edd
JM 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
markalmack 25/May/14 2nd O/S
with james marjot
burto 04/May/14 Lead
with bruce
adam 24 03/May/14 Lead dnf

What a nightmare! The climb was dirty with a few nesting birds. Pretty tired after thrutching through the roof, then was undone by my poor jamming skills above. Tried to run it out to the top, but fell from terminal pump on the last hard move - took a 12m lob :(

Billg 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Great route - upper crack is pretty tricky

dan gibson 10/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 10/Apr/14 2nd β
Hidden 07/Mar/14 2nd O/S
brices 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Good Value varied climb good crack after pulling the roof

with Remus
Dizz 30/Nov/13 2nd

Got a bit too involved in the roof cave ... Made leaving tricky :)

with Tom
Tubs 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Liz F
AlexD 28/Jul/13 2nd

great rock!

with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Alex
Luxulyan 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
Wevcore 28/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Rich
Simon Allcock 06/May/13 2nd
with Mary, Wilki
mes32 06/May/13 2nd dog

Very annoyed to fall off after successfully negotiating the roof! Great first pitch.

with Simon Allcock, Wilki
bigie bob 04/May/13 Lead O/S
petegunn 04/Apr/13 Lead

Oops, thought we were on Finale Groove, thought it was a bit stiff for the grade! Glad to see someone else has made the same mistake :) Done in a oner.

with Davina
Hidden 04/Apr/13 2nd dog
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Both pitches in one, got quite intimidated getting up to the overhang and then also getting over it.

with pep
Kevster 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Hexes are great!

Paul Eckton 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
BeccaSnowden 01/Aug/12 AltLd dog

Led pitch 1 clean but all holds on second pitch were soaking!

with Mike
chris wyatt 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Not too sure which strenuous finishing crack the guidebook refers to, but did the one slightly to the right. Excellent climb and when you think you've done it you've got the topout....

with rich
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
3 Names 18/May/12 2nd
with Ed Bulman
halfwaythere 07/Jan/12 AltLd dog

Led Pitch 1 Aided pitch 2 on top rope

with brad
PAJames ??/2012 -
Misha 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Tony
Graham Westbrook 16/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Hidden 19/Sep/10 AltLd
pezzerrr 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

in one pitch

Toby Dunn ?/Jul/10 -
with Andy Reeve
Bern 14/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Ceridwen 13/Sep/09 2nd dog

Fell off the crux, getting through the roof is really pumpy and sustained.

with Uber Mike
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 07/Jun/09 Lead dog

started raining halfway up which made top out v interesting. Very sustained 2nd pitch.

with davenev
davenev 07/Jun/09 2nd dog

Nice P1 - followed by a madly strenuous P2 and a lovely muddy top out made more atmospheric by the rain.

with luke
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd dog
Paz 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Pretty full on on a blustery day. Strang both pitches together.

with WG
Ed Babs 20/Jul/08 AltLd RP
with Harry
sinbad ?/Jul/08 AltLd
with Ben Bradford
JPGR 09/May/08 2nd
with Steve
sadams 24/Feb/08 AltLd

Led top pitch

with Eric Hildrew
Hidden ?/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2007 Lead
dan gibson 21/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with jamie evans
Hidden ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Kyuzo ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
with Bernard Lam
DDDD ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Nicely exposed top pitch

Hidden ??/2005 -
feilx ??/2005 -
dan gibson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with eddie church
cem 27/Sep/03 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch.

Hidden ??/2001 -
ellis ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Dan Rowles
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
craig h 25/May/99 AltLd O/S
with Glen S
Hidden 28/Mar/99 Lead
WB 18/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Roget 25/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Ian Jones ??/1998 Lead O/S

Didn't take the guidebook and thought we were on Finale Groove. Convinced myself it was 4c!

with Karen Ghiselli
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ?/Oct/90 Lead
steve taylor ?/May/90 Lead
with john the chef
Dave Musgrove 31/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Pete Finklaire
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Nigel Coe 04/Jun/88 Lead
with Brian Wyvill
Nigel Coe 22/Mar/87 AltLd dog

7 aid points!

with Tim Dunsby
GuyM ??/1985 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Mark Warnett, Hidden, andycash, joedoherty, Hidden, hutchay, Owen W-G, Master Chief, Hidden, Hidden, Dan Lane, RFWilkie, tobydunford, clipskipper, Different Steve, Alaric, Hidden
High E3
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Votes cast 39
High 5c
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Votes cast 39
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set