A truly magnificent climb that ascends the big narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets an extra star for the beauty of the line, though the climbing is just a touch dirty. Climb the corner crack to a bulge. Shift right into a parallel crack then back left into the main corner. Continue up the corner (peg) to the capping roof - superb large thread and resting place. Drop out and over to a strenuous exit crack. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.6.69. FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Richard Harrison 2.78 07/Jun/1969
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Lead both pitches after epic faff
In one pitch
Led as one pitch. Didn't find a lot of gear on the first pitch, carrying hexes definitely would have helped here! I was pretty shattered by the time I got to the cave, had a big rest in there and really should have backed up the in-situ tat which is looking a little green but I didn't bother, likewise with thread higher up. Just about got around the corner out of the cave onto the hanging face with a few power screams, nearly fell off then found a hidden sidepull (thank god!) and rested for a bit before falling off the weird fingerlock and polished/flared crack above the thread. Incredibly sustained, no way this is E2! I will come back for revenge next year.
|Shane Willis||23/Apr||Lead O/S||
Stood under this three times before I plucked up the courage to pull on. It was pretty intimidating. Great route though. Powerful and technical at the same time. Helps if you can jam. Easy and enjoyable up to the roof and then it gets meaty! Non stop from the roof to the top. But obviously that's why the routes so awesome : ) The tat in the upper section is probably ok but showing a little fraying at the edges.
|Cheese Monkey||12/Apr||Lead dog||
Rich bailed so I was forced to give it a go. Top roped up to and around the most of the roof fine but couldn't pull through into the crack. Resorted to aid :(
Mark Condon, Ian Faulkner
|ian d f||11/Apr||Lead O/S||
Led as one pitch. Had to hop up the second half after dislocating my left knee cap just past the first belay.
Mark Condon, Michael P
In one pitch
Went a bit wrong after the roof but sorted it out in the end. Felt tough, but not that tough. Plenty of rests.
|Si dH||25/Oct/14||Lead dog||
Took a whipper right at the top! Did it second go.
Fell off (loss of concentration just before the roof) and had a prussiking job to do! Amazing route.
Felt quite hard for the grade
|Ash Sayers||29/Jun/14||Lead dog||
Read the route wrong, went too far left after clipping tat. Surprised with the amount of friable rock!
|adam 24||03/May/14||Lead dnf||
What a nightmare! The climb was dirty with a few nesting birds. Pretty tired after thrutching through the roof, then was undone by my poor jamming skills above. Tried to run it out to the top, but fell from terminal pump on the last hard move - took a 12m lob :(
Great route - upper crack is pretty tricky
|dan gibson||10/Apr/14||Lead rpt||
|Tom Livingstone||10/Apr/14||2nd β|
Good Value varied climb good crack after pulling the roof
Got a bit too involved in the roof cave ... Made leaving tricky :)
|Sophie Nunn||28/Jul/13||Lead O/S|
Very annoyed to fall off after successfully negotiating the roof! Great first pitch.
Simon Allcock, Wilki
|bigie bob||04/May/13||Lead O/S|
Oops, thought we were on Finale Groove, thought it was a bit stiff for the grade! Glad to see someone else has made the same mistake :) Done in a oner.
|Haydn Jones||08/Sep/12||Lead O/S||
Both pitches in one, got quite intimidated getting up to the overhang and then also getting over it.
Hexes are great!
|Paul Eckton||26/Aug/12||2nd O/S|
Led pitch 1 clean but all holds on second pitch were soaking!
|chris wyatt||17/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
Not too sure which strenuous finishing crack the guidebook refers to, but did the one slightly to the right. Excellent climb and when you think you've done it you've got the topout....
Led Pitch 1 Aided pitch 2 on top rope
in one pitch
Fell off the crux, getting through the roof is really pumpy and sustained.
|Richard Horn||16/Aug/09||2nd O/S|
|Mr Tickle||07/Jun/09||Lead dog||
started raining halfway up which made top out v interesting. Very sustained 2nd pitch.
Nice P1 - followed by a madly strenuous P2 and a lovely muddy top out made more atmospheric by the rain.
Pretty full on on a blustery day. Strang both pitches together.
|Ed Babs||20/Jul/08||AltLd RP||
Led top pitch
|dan gibson||21/Sep/06||Lead rpt||
Nicely exposed top pitch
|dan gibson||??/2005||Lead O/S||
Led crux pitch.
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|craig h||25/May/99||AltLd O/S||
|Ian Jones||??/1998||Lead O/S||
Didn't take the guidebook and thought we were on Finale Groove. Convinced myself it was 4c!
|William Robertson||??/1995||Lead O/S||
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
john the chef
|Dave Musgrove||31/Mar/90||Lead O/S||
|Nigel Coe||22/Mar/87||AltLd dog||
7 aid points!