38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A truly magnificent climb that ascends the big narrowing groove to a wild finish. It gets an extra star for the beauty of the line, though the climbing is just a touch dirty. Climb the corner crack to a bulge. Shift right into a parallel crack then back left into the main corner. Continue up the corner (peg) to the capping roof - superb large thread and resting place. Drop out and over to a strenuous exit crack. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 7.6.69. FFA. Gordon Jenkin, Richard Harrison 2.78 07/Jun/1969

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Thinker01 05/Sep Lead O/S

Lead both pitches after epic faff

tim.fairhall 18/Aug 2nd O/S

In one pitch

jsmcfarland 18/Aug Lead dog

Led as one pitch. Didn't find a lot of gear on the first pitch, carrying hexes definitely would have helped here! I was pretty shattered by the time I got to the cave, had a big rest in there and really should have backed up the in-situ tat which is looking a little green but I didn't bother, likewise with thread higher up. Just about got around the corner out of the cave onto the hanging face with a few power screams, nearly fell off then found a hidden sidepull (thank god!) and rested for a bit before falling off the weird fingerlock and polished/flared crack above the thread. Incredibly sustained, no way this is E2! I will come back for revenge next year.

Shane Willis 23/Apr Lead O/S

Stood under this three times before I plucked up the courage to pull on. It was pretty intimidating. Great route though. Powerful and technical at the same time. Helps if you can jam. Easy and enjoyable up to the roof and then it gets meaty! Non stop from the roof to the top. But obviously that's why the routes so awesome : ) The tat in the upper section is probably ok but showing a little fraying at the edges.

Cheese Monkey 12/Apr Lead dog

Rich bailed so I was forced to give it a go. Top roped up to and around the most of the roof fine but couldn't pull through into the crack. Resorted to aid :(

Rich R
pearson9596 11/Apr 2nd O/S
Mark Condon, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 11/Apr Lead O/S

Led as one pitch. Had to hop up the second half after dislocating my left knee cap just past the first belay.

Mark Condon, Michael P
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Bristoldave 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

In one pitch

jacobjlloyd 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Went a bit wrong after the roof but sorted it out in the end. Felt tough, but not that tough. Plenty of rests.

Andrea R
Si dH 25/Oct/14 Lead dog

Took a whipper right at the top! Did it second go.

Stuart Fox
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 01/Aug/14 2nd dog
khalidq 20/Jul/14 2nd dog

Fell off (loss of concentration just before the roof) and had a prussiking job to do! Amazing route.

Jon Leighton
jonleighton 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Felt quite hard for the grade

Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 01/Jul/14 2nd
Ash Sayers 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

Read the route wrong, went too far left after clipping tat. Surprised with the amount of friable rock!

andycash 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
mike mo 21/Jun/14 Lead
JM 25/May/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 25/May/14 2nd O/S
james marjot
burto 04/May/14 Lead
adam 24 03/May/14 Lead dnf

What a nightmare! The climb was dirty with a few nesting birds. Pretty tired after thrutching through the roof, then was undone by my poor jamming skills above. Tried to run it out to the top, but fell from terminal pump on the last hard move - took a 12m lob :(

Billg 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Great route - upper crack is pretty tricky

dan gibson 10/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 10/Apr/14 2nd β
Hidden 07/Mar/14 2nd O/S
brices 07/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Good Value varied climb good crack after pulling the roof

Dizz 30/Nov/13 2nd

Got a bit too involved in the roof cave ... Made leaving tricky :)

Tubs 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Liz F
AlexD 28/Jul/13 2nd

great rock!

Sophie Nunn 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Kev Brown
Wevcore 28/Jul/13 2nd dog
Simon Allcock 06/May/13 2nd
Mary, Wilki
mes32 06/May/13 2nd dog

Very annoyed to fall off after successfully negotiating the roof! Great first pitch.

Simon Allcock, Wilki
bigie bob 04/May/13 Lead O/S
petegunn 04/Apr/13 Lead

Oops, thought we were on Finale Groove, thought it was a bit stiff for the grade! Glad to see someone else has made the same mistake :) Done in a oner.

Hidden 04/Apr/13 2nd dog
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
Haydn Jones 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Both pitches in one, got quite intimidated getting up to the overhang and then also getting over it.

Kevster 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Hexes are great!

Paul Eckton 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
BeccaSnowden 01/Aug/12 AltLd dog

Led pitch 1 clean but all holds on second pitch were soaking!

chris wyatt 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Not too sure which strenuous finishing crack the guidebook refers to, but did the one slightly to the right. Excellent climb and when you think you've done it you've got the topout....

mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
3 Names 18/May/12 2nd
Ed Bulman
halfwaythere 07/Jan/12 AltLd dog

Led Pitch 1 Aided pitch 2 on top rope

PAJames ??/2012 -
Misha 02/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 16/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Hidden 19/Sep/10 AltLd
pezzerrr 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

in one pitch

Toby Dunn ?/Jul/10 -
Andy Reeve
Bern 14/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Ceridwen 13/Sep/09 2nd dog

Fell off the crux, getting through the roof is really pumpy and sustained.

Uber Mike
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Richard Horn 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Mr Tickle 07/Jun/09 Lead dog

started raining halfway up which made top out v interesting. Very sustained 2nd pitch.

davenev 07/Jun/09 2nd dog

Nice P1 - followed by a madly strenuous P2 and a lovely muddy top out made more atmospheric by the rain.

Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 10/Aug/08 2nd dog
Paz 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Pretty full on on a blustery day. Strang both pitches together.

Ed Babs 20/Jul/08 AltLd RP
sinbad ?/Jul/08 AltLd
Ben Bradford
JPGR 09/May/08 2nd
sadams 24/Feb/08 AltLd

Led top pitch

Eric Hildrew
Hidden ?/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Rob Pitt ??/2007 Lead
dan gibson 21/Sep/06 Lead rpt
jamie evans
Hidden ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Kyuzo ?/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
Bernard Lam
DDDD ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Nicely exposed top pitch

Hidden ??/2005 -
feilx ??/2005 -
dan gibson ??/2005 Lead O/S
eddie church
cem 27/Sep/03 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch.

Hidden ??/2001 -
ellis ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Dan Rowles
Marti999 ??/2000 AltLd
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
craig h 25/May/99 AltLd O/S
Glen S
Hidden 28/Mar/99 Lead
WB 18/Nov/98 AltLd O/S
Roget 25/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1998 Lead O/S

Didn't take the guidebook and thought we were on Finale Groove. Convinced myself it was 4c!

Karen Ghiselli
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ?/Oct/90 Lead
steve taylor ?/May/90 Lead
john the chef
Dave Musgrove 31/Mar/90 Lead O/S
Pete Finklaire
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Nigel Coe 04/Jun/88 Lead
Brian Wyvill
Nigel Coe 22/Mar/87 AltLd dog

7 aid points!

Tim Dunsby
GuyM ??/1985 -
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 39
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set