Wall of the Worlds*** E5 6a

Rockfax Description
A truly fantastic pitch. Sustained, well protected and with a pressing crux move high on the wall. Start below the very thin line of cracks in a slight depression on the upper wall and just right of the rope sling at the midway break on Mother Africa.Move up the wall on good holds to a narrow ledge. Harder climbing past white blotches gains the horizontal break above. Sustained climbing through the bulge and up the line of thin cracks leads past a jug, but without much respite, to another bulge. A hard couple of moves up and right past a peg gain a thread and the final short wall. © ROCKFAX

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 12.6.83 12/Jun/1983

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, SW Climbs - Swanage.

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This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/15

With Wend
colesy - Lead O/S - 25/May/15

Wendy - 2nd O/S - 25/May/15 with Mike Coles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/15

ian bryant - 2015

JM - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Stevo

piken - Jul/14

Awesome route. Sustained - no real hard moves - and stonking gear if you can hang on to place it.
wolverine - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Ben Meakin

Fran S8 - 2nd - 03/May/14 with john nightingale

JulesV - Lead O/S - May/14 with Will Boxen

cymjt - 2014

pulled on a wire just below break, above was desperate but ok
mike lawrence? - 2nd - 29/Aug/13 with FatRob

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Adam Booth

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Ed Booth

Psyched! Amazing route. Fell off on onsight a month ago, got back on it today and bosh! Pretty pumped from the start but you can just about keep it together. Replaced the old tat on the peg as I abseiled past, so ground up and abseil inspection.
Tom Livingstone - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

great climbing but a little too steep for me, though none of the individual moves felt too hard.
Dan Lane - 2nd dog - 01/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/13

An awesome route, so steep but so many jugs! Quite greasy conditions and still slightly pumped from earlier. Fell just below crux. Will be back!
Tom Livingstone - Lead dog - 22/Jun/13 with Jake Lloyd

Combination of grease and unfitness made this seem desperate. Newfound respect for my old fitter self.
jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 22/Jun/13 with Tom Livingstone

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/13

fell off, decked, dislocated my right wrist.
mikeyjbs - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/12 with andrew caddie

BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 01/Aug/12 with Mike

First E5! Sooo pumped. Slapped my way up it, placed twenty runners somehow. Not hard, some good jug shake-outs that I should have been able to recover on, but i'm too unfit. I was off from the crux, but fell sideways and hung the jug as I went! Thanks to Naomi and Jordan for chalking it up perfectly.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Antoine, Ross

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

First E5 @ Swanage. Managed to keep to pump at bay - felt a lot easier than Lean Machine.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Mar/12

Justin T - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Cherry

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 28/May/11 with rich cross

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/11

Swapped leads last minute with mikey. Good moves between the jugs. Not sure about the mesmeric crux but i used a high heel so maybe i teched past it.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Mikey G

on alex's gear. Brilliant climbing, low in the grade e5 - some quite hard moves but enough good holds to recover in between them
Mike Goldthorp - Lead β - 11/Aug/10 with alex mason

Not sure if it is the best single pitch at Swanage, thought Lean Machine was better.
Ally Baba - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10 with Tony Stone, Mcgeek

mgeek - Lead β - 08/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone

fell off the start a couple of years before
dan gibson - Lead RP - 13/Apr/10 with jacquie robinson

Robbed of the onsight when a jug came off in my hand at 30feet. Pulled ropes and flashed it. Mega line - not as thin as it looks from below.
shark - Lead - 28/Aug/09 with Ed Southwell

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

Brilliant long pumpy route, just keeps going.
Ricky Rocks - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09

feilx - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Crazy Tom

JPGR - 2nd - 08/May/08 with Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/07

Bern - Lead dog - Aug/07 with Steve Pearson

Bern - 2006

Thin cru and very strenuous.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - Sep/05 with Andy Reeve

switch - Lead O/S - 2002 with Ellis

westaway - Lead β - 2001

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/98 with jon

sadams - 2nd - 22/Jun/98 with Andy Long

Richard White - Lead O/S - 1996 with Dave Pickford

A hard crux and pumpy.
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/93

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

I used 3 pts aid.
Nigel Coe - 2nd dog - 29/Aug/88 with Ray Mardon

frank ramsay - Lead - 1987

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JRae, Liam Ingram, Ramon Marin, brices, Tangerine_Kingdom, Tom Thorne, RFWilkie, Alex Mason, Kyuzo

Total votes cast 76
hard E60 of 20
E60 of 20
easy E60 of 20
hard E50 of 20
E57 of 20
easy E59 of 20
hard E44 of 20
E40 of 20
easy E40 of 20
hard 6b0 of 28
6b0 of 28
easy 6b1 of 28
hard 6a3 of 28
6a23 of 28
easy 6a1 of 28
hard 5c0 of 28
5c0 of 28
easy 5c0 of 28
3 Stars28 of 28
2 Stars0 of 28
1 Star0 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP