Black Sunshine* HVS 4c
[Black sunshine P1 at the foot hold, 2 kb]38m, 2 pitches. A well-travelled and solid route. Upgraded from VS. 1) 4c, 20m. Climb a scoop, just left of the big boulder, then move leftwards around a roof. Traverse 8m back right to a corner and slab. The slab leads to a belay on the left at the fault-line. 2) 4b, 18m. Climb to an overhang, traverse 3m right and pull over. Continue to the top and an earthy finish. © ROCKFAX
FA. Jim Titt, J.Thornby 24/Oct/1971

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Black sunshine P1 at the foot hold © Chris
View all 2 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 161 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Pero - AltLd - 10/Sep/14

Led p1. One can avoid the much harder start by taking an immediate step left into a shallow scoop: a bit balancey and not much gear, though.
cem - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Peter Murphy

petegruf - AltLd - 12/Jul/14 with charles m

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Jun/14

The always-strenuous start is harder now (Probably 5a) due to the loss of a block from the cave.
Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/14 with Anne-Marie Shepherd

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jun/14

mc fifi - AltLd O/S - 04/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/14

TiffTiff - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Joe Sergeant

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

sonic46 - AltLd - 13/Apr/14 with Lee Mercer

lukerathmell - AltLd - 2014 with Carl Stubbs

lead P2
dobby 200 - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/13 with Joe Doherty

Bad rope drag, use half ropes!
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 16/Nov/13 with Micheal Dobinson

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/13

Led p2 and got the correct line this time.
The Ivanator - AltLd rpt - 22/Sep/13 with Stevo

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Ian

I lead the money pitch, traversed to the left in low so hand was on the foot hold on the arete. Didn't think this was harder than VS 5a.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Sep/13

Climbed it as a single pitch. The 8-meter traverse is airy :) Careful with rope drag.
sarpedon - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13

Led both pitches. Pretty dark by the time John got up!
Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/13 with Matt Tyson, John Knight

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd RP - 09/Jun/13

Thought it was a VS!
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Tom Stanford

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 02/Jun/13 with Josh Chalke, Lawrence Dudley

joshchalke - 2nd - 02/Jun/13

Nexonen - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Sophie, Floris

Led p1
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Andy J, Floris

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 06/Apr/13 with Max Streeton

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/13

led 2nd pit
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 05/Mar/13 with Alice

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

torsok - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Nic

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Sep/12

Turned back off P1 - intimidated by the steepness.
Pete Nugent - 14/Sep/12 with Bob Mott (CC)

Great moves on pitch 1 to get to past the flakes, and then careful ropework required for the traverse. Nice pitch 2 but horrible top out, and then no belay stake!
Andy Chubb - Lead - 26/Aug/12 with Chris Mellor

Mix of delicate and strenuous climbing
eroica64 - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Andy Chubb

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Lauren, Tim

Headjamm - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Geoff

Didn't lead first crux pitch thank god
Andre Clarke - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Alan

Led P1.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Jul/12 with Andre Clarke

loose top
LukeyG - Lead - 10/Jun/12

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 13/May/12 with Stewart Armstrong

Stewart Armstrong - AltLd O/S - 13/May/12 with Monkey Alan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/12

louby - 2nd - 11/Feb/12 with Chris Burn

Surprisingly good 1st pitch, not sure about the second as it was dark by then and we couldn't really see much. Could do with a new and more substantial stake at the top.
chris_B - Lead - 11/Feb/12 with Lou Atkin

Ian JL - 2012

Second pitch done in the dark...oops
lukerathmell - AltLd O/S - 19/Oct/11 with Carl Stubbs

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 19/Oct/11 with luke rathmell

jasonpm - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Steve IMC

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/11 with Jason

jezb1 - Lead - 15/Aug/11

Tough for VS
Ciderslider - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/11 with Jez B

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/11

Lead both pitches, bit of a scrapy climb, great care needs to be taken with rope work to avoid drag.
Simon Cahill - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Steve (Dorchester)

Steve27 - 2nd - 10/Jul/11 with Simon Cahill

recon - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with benny b

Dieter Z - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with benny

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11 with Steve Knaggs

Hidden - AltLd - 25/May/11

Lead first pitch
matt.jj - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11

done when it was a VS. Thought it was fair for the grade. Good climb.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - May/11 with Matt Jackson

dickie01 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Joe Heasman

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Mar/11

Led P2
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Viskii Chicu

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11

dan gibson - AltLd - 13/Mar/11 with michael porter

lead second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Viskii

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10

P1, steep start, easy middle, delicate finish. P2 straight forward. Stiff for VS. Got hit by a big lump of rock on mid height belay :(
jezb1 - AltLd - 16/Oct/10

Tough (but good) first pitch and loose second one (now realise the direct line I took from belay to top isn't correct) ...I somehow bombed my belayer with a sizeable chunk of rock (fell as I unweighted it - didn't move whilst I was stood on it) ...sorry Jez!
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Jez

Tricky first couple of moves, but all there. very careful ropework required to prevent rope drag - you have to have double ropes for this route. Horrible top out on second pitch. Would have been good to have left a rope in place to protect the final few moves up the soil and loose stones.
Andy Chubb - Lead - 10/Oct/10 with Jim Mulvaney

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/10

Lead first pitch. Poor ropework :-( and went too high for the traverse right to the slab section. Made it a lot harder than it should have been.
gibsond - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/10 with Pilar Martinez

Really nice route, though I think I started slightly to far left of the boulder, over a poorly protected section, fortunately easy climbing though. Final slab of P1 was awkward. Luca lead P2, his first 4b lead and also first multi-pitch lead - good job :)
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Luca Celano

Started to go off route on the first pitch traverse - made it feel harder than it should have. I think moving down a couple of steps after starting the traverse gives better holds. Second pitch was fun, enough placements where necessary, but plenty of really positive holds to climb well above gear. Scrabbely top out, but more soil than loose rock.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/10 with ben.richards

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10

climbtim - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Tom Thorne

RD P1
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Martin

smolders - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Robert D

Led 1st pitch.
garywong - AltLd rpt - 24/Jul/10 with Jason Kleine

Led P2.
kleinej - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Gary

Ceridwen - AltLd rpt - 24/Jun/10 with Mick

brian watson - AltLd rpt - 14/Jun/10 with gary mason

Alaric - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Ed, Neil

Ed Griffin - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Neill Turner, Alaric

Carly - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10 with Richard

Lead both pitches this time.
jezb1 - Lead - 11/May/10

tom lead the first pitch. I lead the very run out and (brown trouser) scary top pitch
Ben Sidsaph - AltLd O/S - 05/May/10 with Kate Bolton, Tom Norton

This was an awesome climb. The first pitch had a tricky start and a tiny belay point. Finished in the dark, first experience of not being able to see where the hell I was putting my feet.
KateBolton - 2nd - 05/May/10 with Ben Sidsaph, Tom Boeckx

Bailed on lead of P1 after getting wasted on Sinbad, E1. Delicate first pitch in places.
jezb1 - 2nd - 18/Apr/10

Stiff at the VS grade.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Jez B

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Sep/09

Led 1st pitch. Finally got round to doing the route that I failed last year.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd - 06/Sep/09 with Oli Dorrell, Julian Prieto

Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Alan Blanchflower, Ollie Dorrell

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen

lead pitch 1
uncontrollable - AltLd β - 08/Aug/09 with bob

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/09

Graham Westbrook - Aug/09

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Emma

climbergg - AltLd - 05/Jul/09 with cheesesarnie

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/09

Led 2nd pitch.
garywong - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09 with Patrick Goodwin

Ceridwen - AltLd rpt - 26/Apr/09 with Mark

cliffy - AltLd - 19/Apr/09 with Pilar Martinez

jamie ward - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Marcus Harvey

Wow!
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Andy Mosienko

First trad and multi pitch route. AWESOME
breed - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Ellis Bird

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/08

Missed foothold to arÍte to the left and knackered my arms hanging about too long.
Monkey_Alan - 2nd dnf - 21/Sep/08 with Max Streeton

matt.woodfield - AltLd - 13/Sep/08

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with John Vet

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/08

This deserves a 5a tech grade at least. Take the guide book with you. This route is brown trousers!
riddle - AltLd dog - 30/May/08 with Yasmina

I lead the second pitch, traversed right then pulling up over the overhang felt committing. The traverse left under the roof on the first pitch felt committing
RocknRoll - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/08 with Ramon Marin Martinez

dobrek - Lead - 22/Sep/07 with Chuck

Clee - 2nd - 22/Sep/07 with John

good route, led 1st pitch.
MontyH - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Brian and Paul

brian watson - AltLd rpt - 25/Aug/07 with Andy and Paul

lead 1st pitch
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Ben Smith

feeko - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/07 with Dad

vet - 2nd - 08/Jul/07 with Helen

Rob Kennard - 2007

mike kann - 2007 with Rob Scheicl

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Oct/06

five - AltLd O/S - Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/06

Brucifer - AltLd - Aug/06 with alan rosier

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/06

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/05

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Apr/05

feilx - 2005

had rest on first pitch went wrong way lead rest
brian watson - Lead dog - 2005

Budge - AltLd O/S - 16/Oct/04 with Martin Gillie

timharrison - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/04 with Matt Perks

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/04

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Feb/04

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Feb/04

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/03

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - 14/May/00

I led bottom pitch again, properly this time!
andyfeds - AltLd rpt - 27/Jul/97 with Andy C

Hidden - 19/Jul/97

Went badly off-route, traversing right too early. Caused problems for weeksie!
andyfeds - Lead - 15/Jun/97 with Weeksie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

colin milton - AltLd - 27/Aug/95 with eric milton

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 29/Jun/92 with Joe

kp64zl - 2nd - Dec/89 with Mark Ryle

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 06/Nov/83 with Russell Lovett

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lukerathmell, gilmourheid, Warren Earle, Tom Gadsden

Voting
Total votes cast 106
hard E10 of 18
E11 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard HVS0 of 18
HVS8 of 18
easy HVS2 of 18
hard VS5 of 18
VS2 of 18
easy VS0 of 18
hard 5a1 of 47
5a0 of 47
easy 5a8 of 47
hard 4c31 of 47
4c7 of 47
easy 4c0 of 47
hard 4b0 of 47
4b0 of 47
easy 4b0 of 47
3 Stars1 of 41
2 Stars26 of 41
1 Star13 of 41
0 Stars1 of 41
Bag of .....0 of 41
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf