The Lean Machine*** E5 6a

Rockfax Description
An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the wall. Start on top of a massive boulder at the base of the abseil. From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds until a move up left gains a small right leaning overhang. Move out right up the wall via a thin crack and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A better description would be: From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds to a jug in black rock. Step right and then up until a move up and left gains a jug at the base of a slightly overhung niche. Climb into the niche and then step right to follow a right trending crack/flake into the righthand niche and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish.
Note: the line drawn on the photo in the 2015 (or is it 2014?) CC Swanage guide is, in my view, wrong (following it makes the route much harder!). The description in the guide is more accurate, however at the overhung niche you step right rather than climb the crack above you (as suggested by the guidebook). Oh, and the pre-placed rope is a must, unless you also take an ice-axe!

FA. Martin Crocker 11.6.83 11/Jun/1983

Ticklists: Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Swanage wild pumpfests, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

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This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 15 wishlists.

With Wendy
colesy - Lead O/S - 25/May/15

Wendy - 2nd O/S - 25/May/15 with Mike Coles

ian bryant - 2015

piken - Jul/14

3 Names - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/14 with Ed Bulman

Does this go left (up the thin crack) or right (up the groove) at the top? The dorset rockfax appears to show left but sw rockfax shows right. Confused. I tried to go left after onsighting to there and took a few falls trying that way, then went right and it was a breeze.
JulesV - Lead dog - May/14 with Will Boxen

One to aspire for, obtained rescue points later in the day.
Jake Young - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/12 with Mike

Aaaaagh should have had it! Felt much easier than last time, in condition. Pumped out and fell off the last move! Still boxed after Wall of the Worlds, and the first gear was stuck.. will come back and lead it. So much fun it is really worth repeating
jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/12 with Ross

So pleased. Good conditions, beta & chalked holds really helped but still got mega pumped. Left some OK gear 2/3rds of the way up and just slapped my way to the top. Physically the hardest E5 I've done.
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 04/Jun/12 with Jake

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/May/12

pezzerrr - 2nd O/S - 11/May/12

Oh. My. Goodness. Not one to get on without fitness. I had no idea how steep this was going to be until halfway down the abseil. It is a fantastic wall, really inspiring, shockingly steep, and doesn't let up. Exhaustingly pumpy climbing on good holds, and just when you get desperate for a shakeout it gets hard! F7b. Swanage trad meets spanish limestone. Probably the best route I've been on, ever. Felt a long way off, but I will be back.
jacobjlloyd - 2nd dog - 31/Mar/12 with Ross

Nowhere near fit enough. Fell after going wrong way 1/2way up, pulled ropes to retry but didn't get much further on 2nd attempt - the tops hard!
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 31/Mar/12 with Jake

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/10 with rob gibson

Sweet end of the day tick after knocking the rest out. Best route of the day and worthy of 3* despite pulling up the abb rope to gain terra firma! Superb.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Mikey G

thought it was a mega pitch. Super steep!!
Ally Baba - Lead β - 09/Jul/10 with Tony Stone, Mcgeek

mgeek - Lead β - 09/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone

Toby Dunn - Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

With Eric. First weekend away of the year.
edinbed - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 15/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

feilx - Lead dog - 20/Jun/09 with Angus

Bern - Lead dog - 30/May/09 with Richard White

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/08

Bern - 2006

westaway - 2002

ellis - 2nd dog - Jun/01 with Simon Witcher

Marti999 - 2nd - 2001 with Dave pickford

switch - Lead O/S - 1999

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1993

Glenn Sutcliffe - Lead O/S - 1991 with keefe

I had 5 rests.
Nigel Coe - 2nd dog - 1991 with Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wi11, Justin T, brices, Tom Livingstone, RFWilkie, Mike Goldthorp, jimmyjinxter, Tangerine_Kingdom, feilx, Richard Horn

Total votes cast 30
hard E60 of 11
E60 of 11
easy E61 of 11
hard E53 of 11
E57 of 11
easy E50 of 11
hard E40 of 11
E40 of 11
easy E40 of 11
hard 6b0 of 9
6b0 of 9
easy 6b0 of 9
hard 6a3 of 9
6a6 of 9
easy 6a0 of 9
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
3 Stars9 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP