UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
A classic corner problem just left of the descent route makes a good first lead - if you can get off the ground. Spotter advised for the polished start. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Swanage Green Spots , SPA Training Minimum Requirement

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User Date Notes
JohnHutch 5 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The start is far harder than VD!
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βeta: The start is far harder than VD!
jrclimber 13 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loads of pro great first lead
βeta?
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βeta: Loads of pro great first lead
eldre070 19 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The bridging at the start is ace, especially when wet! Entire route can be fully stitched with ease. Perfect first lead.
βeta?
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βeta: The bridging at the start is ace, especially when wet! Entire route can be fully stitched with ease. Perfect first lead.
TRJ 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Interesting first few moves up the corner, though there are various ways to overcome this obstacle. The polished rock makes this a 4b move, I reckon, but as it's straight off the ground there's no danger. I found heel and toeing to be the best option, by the way. The corner and sea cliff atmosphere provide a nice feeling of exposure for the grade. The top section is little more than scramble. Simple belay like most of Cattle Troughs, with abseil stakes and spikes aplenty.
βeta?
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βeta: Interesting first few moves up the corner, though there are various ways to overcome this obstacle. The polished rock makes this a 4b move, I reckon, but as it's straight off the ground there's no danger. I found heel and toeing to be the best option, by the way. The corner and sea cliff atmosphere provide a nice feeling of exposure for the grade. The top section is little more than scramble. Simple belay like most of Cattle Troughs, with abseil stakes and spikes aplenty.
Fidget 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Oops, added this comment to the wrong route, should have been for The Chimney!
βeta?
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βeta: Oops, added this comment to the wrong route, should have been for The Chimney!
Fidget 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice bit of back and footing to get established, especially since it's easier to get friction on the slippy rock with a heel (facing left) rather than a toe.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice bit of back and footing to get established, especially since it's easier to get friction on the slippy rock with a heel (facing left) rather than a toe.
SC 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An ok route. The start wasn't that difficult, you dont have to bridge, a layback from the crack in the corner was very easy.
Show beta
βeta: An ok route. The start wasn't that difficult, you dont have to bridge, a layback from the crack in the corner was very easy.

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 76
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 79
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Far from the Madding Crowd

Grade: VD ***
(Seacombe)

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