Rockfax Description
A classic corner problem just left of the descent route makes a good first lead - if you can get off the ground. Spotter advised for the polished start. © Rockfax
Swanage Green Spots , SPA Training Minimum Requirement
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JohnHutch | 5 May, 2023 |
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βeta: The start is far harder than VD! | ||
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βeta: The start is far harder than VD! |
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jrclimber | 13 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Loads of pro great first lead | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loads of pro great first lead |
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eldre070 | 19 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: The bridging at the start is ace, especially when wet! Entire route can be fully stitched with ease. Perfect first lead. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The bridging at the start is ace, especially when wet! Entire route can be fully stitched with ease. Perfect first lead. |
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TRJ | 12 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Interesting first few moves up the corner, though there are various ways to overcome this obstacle. The polished rock makes this a 4b move, I reckon, but as it's straight off the ground there's no danger. I found heel and toeing to be the best option, by the way. The corner and sea cliff atmosphere provide a nice feeling of exposure for the grade. The top section is little more than scramble. Simple belay like most of Cattle Troughs, with abseil stakes and spikes aplenty. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Interesting first few moves up the corner, though there are various ways to overcome this obstacle. The polished rock makes this a 4b move, I reckon, but as it's straight off the ground there's no danger. I found heel and toeing to be the best option, by the way. The corner and sea cliff atmosphere provide a nice feeling of exposure for the grade. The top section is little more than scramble. Simple belay like most of Cattle Troughs, with abseil stakes and spikes aplenty. |
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Fidget | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Oops, added this comment to the wrong route, should have been for The Chimney! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Oops, added this comment to the wrong route, should have been for The Chimney! |
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Fidget | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice bit of back and footing to get established, especially since it's easier to get friction on the slippy rock with a heel (facing left) rather than a toe. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice bit of back and footing to get established, especially since it's easier to get friction on the slippy rock with a heel (facing left) rather than a toe. |
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SC | 13 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: An ok route. The start wasn't that difficult, you dont have to bridge, a layback from the crack in the corner was very easy. | ||
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βeta: An ok route. The start wasn't that difficult, you dont have to bridge, a layback from the crack in the corner was very easy. |
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Grade: VD ***
(Seacombe)