Rockfax Description
Climb a crack on the right of the slab, then follow flakes leading to a roof. Move left to finish via a groove. Serious above half height. © Rockfax

Kevster 22/Mar 2nd O/S
tonevert 22/Mar Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
James_L88 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Listen to the guidebook when it says "serious above half height"! Not a lot of gear to speak of above the small roof.

with Kat Day
DanC1985 06/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Nicky, Nathan
nathan2day 06/Sep/14 2nd
nikinko 06/Sep/14 2nd dog

We went right at roof instead of left. Lots of falling off!

with Dan C
stonemikey 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Edd Wratten
Sophie Nunn 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Sue
Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
SimonMarcYoung 01/Jun/14 2nd
Philoosh 18/Apr/14 TR dog
Hidden 23/Jun/13 2nd O/S
tombushell 02/Jun/13 Lead dnf
tombushell 02/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Sam Husband 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
DanC1985 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Deviated onto Eskimo Nell E1 5b, due to old guide with no topos

with Trevor
Hidden ??/2013 -
AlexD 11/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with Marti
Marti999 11/Dec/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/11 2nd O/S
pelvoux 09/Oct/11 2nd O/S

amazing lead by Paul with a long run out after the roof

with Paul
ally1509 03/Sep/11 2nd dog
Helen Gibson 20/May/11 Lead

first half good solid rock, then gear gets a bit sparse as the rock deteriorates, ok.

dan gibson 20/May/11 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
steve2006 08/May/11 Lead O/S

serious!, nervous and slow might also describe my onsight. once you left the flake and above the only solid gear placement, I was madly searching for a crack that my wires would fit into, it felt like a E1/5a, I must have missed a placement. I hope to re-climb again to prove it was not just nerves..

james steven turney 08/May/11 2nd
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ian JL 03/Apr/11 Lead O/S
chris_B ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

good route, not that serious

louby ?/Mar/11 2nd
uncontrollable 25/Sep/10 Lead dog

started off nicely, had to take a rest under the roof, turned left and spend the rest of the way wishing for some protection and a tope rope rescue...finished way off route to the left. An interesting climb but one should head the 'serious' remark in the Guide Book and it HVS 5a might be a bit of a Sandbag.

with Julian, Mark J
garywong 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
kleinej 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Gary
madguernseyboy 17/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Fell twice 10m On second fall injured ankle.

Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
risby 15/May/10 2nd O/S
JimBee ?/May/10 Lead rpt
with Andy Kuszyk
davenev 25/Apr/10 Lead

Greasy hold at the roof meant had to rest on gear - the word Serious in the description becomes meaningful after the very thin rusty peg!!!

with Tess, luke
Where is my shoe? 25/Apr/10 2nd dog

Whoa, much too hard for me! Fell, rested, held onto gear to help me up, you name it, I did it! Hope to give it another shot, another time.

Mr Tickle 25/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Definitly E1 5b.

Alexstone ??/2010 Lead O/S
JimBee ?/Aug/09 Lead dnf
Burt ?/Aug/09 2nd
jezb1 22/Jul/09 2nd

crux more fierce than expected....

clipskipper 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Up to the roof fairly straightforward, but no gear once you're out on the face. Delicate but with good footholds.

with Jez B
riddle 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Took the harder route, straight up at the roof. A little airy!

with Yasmina
MarkRyder 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Lee
tweedcore 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
gingerdave13 04/May/09 Lead dnf

last climb of the day - got up to roof and decided it would be harsh to make mate follow. down climbed removing gear

with stig
Ceridwen 26/Apr/09 Lead dog
with Mark
Disco ??/2009 2nd
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 26/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/08 2nd
Piers Harley 10/Sep/08 Lead β

a typical Swanage route, much harder than it looks!!

with Richard Matthews
Rollo 11/Aug/08 2nd
with Mike
doyle12 29/May/08 Lead dnf
with Tristian
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Beecher
Marq 03/May/08 2nd O/S

Andy backed off

with Andy Livingstone, Anthony Schwirtz
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
andy jennings ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S
andyfeds 04/Aug/07 Lead
with Andy C
Tom Livingstone ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mrtom 08/Jul/07 Lead dog

Fairly steep and thuggy, but loads of fun! Had to rest just after/at the big block. There's a hidden perfect hand hold in the back, if I'd have spotted it would have cleaned it no worries. Arse! :) Agree that it might be undergraded. Much harder than the VS 5a's in the area, so reckon it's prob a 5b. Good gear tho, all the way up the flake (not so much afterwards). Maybe E1 5b? Dunno, haven't done enough (or any at Swanage) to make a informed comment.

with Deophine and Chris Baily, but the didn't get up so ended up seconding too :)
JDSwain 25/Mar/07 Lead O/S

My first HVS. I feel it may be undergraded at HVS 5a due to the lack of gear above half height, possible ground fall potential! Felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).

with Alex Balch
dan gibson 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
Ed Babs ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Sarah Marriot
Charlie Williams ?/Mar/05 Lead dog
with Arthur Guy
Bern ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S

Was VS 4c in my guide but felt harder with poor rock and gear.

with James Cole
jl 14/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Rachel
clive-greenwood 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with Patricia
Hidden 27/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/02 2nd rpt
andybenham ??/2001 -
MontyH 25/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
Rob Oram 08/Jul/00 Lead dnf

Same as last time, just couldn't get past the crux! Bastard.

with John Hardy
Hidden 08/Apr/00 2nd O/S
Rob Oram 06/Jun/99 Lead dnf

Couldn't get past the crux.

with John Hardy
Hidden 23/May/99 2nd
FrankW ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead
nacnud 05/May/96 Lead
sdht ??/1993 -
steve taylor ?/Jun/90 2nd
with steve kerr
kp64zl ?/Jan/90 Lead
with Jim, Vanessa
MoWalker3 18/Sep/88 -
RichardMc 04/May/86 Lead
with Rupert Hoare
Nigel Coe ??/1985 -
with Tim Dunsby
Russell Lovett 29/Apr/84 2nd O/S

Also lead and solved this route, but on different dates.

with unknown
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
madguernseyboy, allanfarrell, Hidden, dcomeau
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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