Listen to the guidebook when it says "serious above half height"! Not a lot of gear to speak of above the small roof.
James_L88 - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Kat Day
DanC1985 - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/14 with Nicky, Nathan
nathan2day - 2nd - 06/Sep/14
We went right at roof instead of left. Lots of falling off!
nikinko - 2nd dog - 06/Sep/14 with Dan C
stonemikey - 2nd - 23/Jul/14 with Edd Wratten
Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Sue
Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/14
SimonMarcYoung - 2nd - 01/Jun/14
Philoosh - TR dog - 18/Apr/14
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/13
tombushell - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/13 with Sam Husband
tombushell - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/13 with Sam Husband
Sam Husband - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Tom
Deviated onto Eskimo Nell E1 5b, due to old guide with no topos
DanC1985 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Trevor
Hidden - 2013
AlexD - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/12 with Marti
Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/12 with Alex Dennis
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/11
amazing lead by Paul with a long run out after the roof
pelvoux - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/11 with Paul
ally1509 - 2nd dog - 03/Sep/11
first half good solid rock, then gear gets a bit sparse as the rock deteriorates, ok.
Helen Gibson - Lead - 20/May/11
dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 20/May/11 with helen gibson
serious!, nervous and slow might also describe my onsight.
once you left the flake and above the only solid gear placement, I was madly searching for a crack that my wires would fit into, it felt like a E1/5a, I must have missed a placement.
I hope to re-climb again to prove it was not just nerves..
steve2006 - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Andrew Pearson
james steven turney - 2nd - 08/May/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11
Ian JL - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11
good route, not that serious
chris_B - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with Lou Atkin
started off nicely, had to take a rest under the roof, turned left and spend the rest of the way wishing for some protection and a tope rope rescue...finished way off route to the left.
An interesting climb but one should head the 'serious' remark in the Guide Book and it HVS 5a might be a bit of a Sandbag.
uncontrollable - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10 with Julian, Mark J
garywong - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Jason Kleine
kleinej - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Gary
Fell twice 10m
On second fall injured ankle.
madguernseyboy - Lead dnf - 17/Jul/10 with Lucy Plowman
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10
risby - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Tom Thorne
JimBee - Lead rpt - May/10 with Andy Kuszyk
Greasy hold at the roof meant had to rest on gear - the word Serious in the description becomes meaningful after the very thin rusty peg!!!
davenev - Lead - 25/Apr/10 with Tess, luke
Whoa, much too hard for me! Fell, rested, held onto gear to help me up, you name it, I did it! Hope to give it another shot, another time.
Where is my shoe? - 2nd dog - 25/Apr/10 with Dave Neville, Luke Rooker
Definitly E1 5b.
Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/10 with tess mclaren, davenev
Alexstone - Lead O/S - 2010
JimBee - Lead dnf - Aug/09 with Ian Burt
Burt - 2nd - Aug/09
crux more fierce than expected....
jezb1 - 2nd - 22/Jul/09
Up to the roof fairly straightforward, but no gear once you're out on the face. Delicate but with good footholds.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09 with Jez B
Took the harder route, straight up at the roof. A little airy!
riddle - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Yasmina
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Lee
tweedcore - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Sarah Joyce
last climb of the day - got up to roof and decided it would be harsh to make mate follow. down climbed removing gear
gingerdave13 - Lead dnf - 04/May/09 with stig
Ceridwen - Lead dog - 26/Apr/09 with Mark
Disco - 2nd - 2009 with Alex Stone
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/08 with Mark Welling
Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/08
a typical Swanage route, much harder than it looks!!
Piers Harley - Lead β - 10/Sep/08 with Richard Matthews
Rollo - 2nd - 11/Aug/08 with Mike
doyle12 - Lead dnf - 29/May/08 with Tristian
Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/08
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Mark Beecher
Andy backed off
Marq - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Andy Livingstone, Anthony Schwirtz
daveagriff - Lead - 2008
andy jennings - 2nd O/S - Oct/07
andyfeds - Lead - 04/Aug/07 with Andy C
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - Aug/07
Fairly steep and thuggy, but loads of fun! Had to rest just after/at the big block. There's a hidden perfect hand hold in the back, if I'd have spotted it would have cleaned it no worries. Arse! :)
Agree that it might be undergraded. Much harder than the VS 5a's in the area, so reckon it's prob a 5b. Good gear tho, all the way up the flake (not so much afterwards). Maybe E1 5b? Dunno, haven't done enough (or any at Swanage) to make a informed comment.
mrtom - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07 with Deophine and Chris Baily, but the didn't get up so ended up seconding too :)
My first HVS. I feel it may be undergraded at HVS 5a due to the lack of gear above half height, possible ground fall potential! Felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).
JDSwain - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Alex Balch
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with AJ
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Sarah Marriot
Charlie Williams - Lead dog - Mar/05 with Arthur Guy
Was VS 4c in my guide but felt harder with poor rock and gear.
Bern - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with James Cole
jl - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/04 with Rachel
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with Patricia
Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/02
Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/02
andybenham - 2001
MontyH - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/00 with Andy Lawrance
Same as last time, just couldn't get past the crux! Bastard.
Rob Oram - Lead dnf - 08/Jul/00 with John Hardy
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/00
Couldn't get past the crux.
Rob Oram - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/99 with John Hardy
Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/99
FrankW - Lead O/S - 1999 with Laura
Hidden - Lead - Jul/97
nacnud - Lead - 05/May/96
sdht - 1993
steve taylor - 2nd - Jun/90 with steve kerr
kp64zl - Lead - Jan/90 with Jim, Vanessa
MoWalker3 - 18/Sep/88
RichardMc - Lead - 04/May/86 with Rupert Hoare
Nigel Coe - 1985 with Tim Dunsby