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Pearly Gate HVS 5a

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[Blackie and Sarah at Swanage, 2 kb]18m. Climb a crack on the right of the slab, then follow flakes leading to a roof. Move left to finish via a groove. Serious above half height. © ROCKFAX

Photo: Blackie and Sarah at Swanage © mike swann
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 81 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

stonemikey - 2nd - 23/Jul/14 with Edd Wratten

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Sue

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/14

SimonMarcYoung - 2nd - 01/Jun/14

Philoosh - TR dog - 18/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/13

tombushell - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/13 with Sam Husband

tombushell - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/13 with Sam Husband

Sam Husband - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Tom

Deviated onto Eskimo Nell E1 5b, due to old guide with no topos
DanC1985 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Trevor

Hidden - 2013

AlexD - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/12 with Marti

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/12 with Alex Dennis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/11

amazing lead by Paul with a long run out after the roof
pelvoux - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/11 with Paul

ally1509 - 2nd dog - 03/Sep/11

first half good solid rock, then gear gets a bit sparse as the rock deteriorates, ok.
Helen Gibson - Lead - 20/May/11

dan gibson - 2nd rpt - 20/May/11 with helen gibson

serious!, nervous and slow might also describe my onsight. once you left the flake and above the only solid gear placement, I was madly searching for a crack that my wires would fit into, it felt like a E1/5a, I must have missed a placement. I hope to re-climb again to prove it was not just nerves..
steve2006 - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Andrew Pearson

james steven turney - 2nd - 08/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/11

good route, not that serious
chris_B - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with Lou Atkin

started off nicely, had to take a rest under the roof, turned left and spend the rest of the way wishing for some protection and a tope rope rescue...finished way off route to the left. An interesting climb but one should head the 'serious' remark in the Guide Book and it HVS 5a might be a bit of a Sandbag.
uncontrollable - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10 with Julian, Mark J

garywong - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Jason Kleine

kleinej - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Gary

Fell twice 10m On second fall injured ankle.
madguernseyboy - Lead dnf - 17/Jul/10 with Lucy Plowman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

risby - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Tom Thorne

JimBee - Lead rpt - May/10 with Andy Kuszyk

Greasy hold at the roof meant had to rest on gear - the word Serious in the description becomes meaningful after the very thin rusty peg!!!
davenev - Lead - 25/Apr/10 with Tess, luke

Whoa, much too hard for me! Fell, rested, held onto gear to help me up, you name it, I did it! Hope to give it another shot, another time.
Where is my shoe? - 2nd dog - 25/Apr/10 with Dave Neville, Luke Rooker

Definitly E1 5b.
Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/10 with tess mclaren, davenev

Alexstone - Lead O/S - 2010

JimBee - Lead dnf - Aug/09 with Ian Burt

Burt - 2nd - Aug/09

crux more fierce than expected....
jezb1 - 2nd - 22/Jul/09

Up to the roof fairly straightforward, but no gear once you're out on the face. Delicate but with good footholds.
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/09 with Jez B

Took the harder route, straight up at the roof. A little airy!
riddle - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Yasmina

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Lee

tweedcore - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Sarah Joyce

last climb of the day - got up to roof and decided it would be harsh to make mate follow. down climbed removing gear
gingerdave13 - Lead dnf - 04/May/09 with stig

Ceridwen - Lead dog - 26/Apr/09 with Mark

Disco - 2nd - 2009 with Alex Stone

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/08 with Mark Welling

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Sep/08

a typical Swanage route, much harder than it looks!!
Piers Harley - Lead β - 10/Sep/08 with Richard Matthews

Rollo - 2nd - 11/Aug/08 with Mike

doyle12 - Lead dnf - 29/May/08 with Tristian

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Dad

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Mark Beecher

Andy backed off
Marq - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Andy Livingstone, Anthony Schwirtz

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

andy jennings - 2nd O/S - Oct/07

andyfeds - Lead - 04/Aug/07 with Andy C

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - Aug/07

Fairly steep and thuggy, but loads of fun! Had to rest just after/at the big block. There's a hidden perfect hand hold in the back, if I'd have spotted it would have cleaned it no worries. Arse! :) Agree that it might be undergraded. Much harder than the VS 5a's in the area, so reckon it's prob a 5b. Good gear tho, all the way up the flake (not so much afterwards). Maybe E1 5b? Dunno, haven't done enough (or any at Swanage) to make a informed comment.
mrtom - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07 with Deophine and Chris Baily, but the didn't get up so ended up seconding too :)

My first HVS. I feel it may be undergraded at HVS 5a due to the lack of gear above half height, possible ground fall potential! Felt just as hard as Eskimo Nell (E1 5b).
JDSwain - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Alex Balch

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/May/06 with AJ

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Sarah Marriot

Charlie Williams - Lead dog - Mar/05 with Arthur Guy

Was VS 4c in my guide but felt harder with poor rock and gear.
Bern - Lead O/S - Nov/04 with James Cole

jl - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/04 with Rachel

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with Patricia

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/02

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/02

andybenham - 2001

MontyH - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/00 with Andy Lawrance

Same as last time, just couldn't get past the crux! Bastard.
Rob Oram - Lead dnf - 08/Jul/00 with John Hardy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/00

Couldn't get past the crux.
Rob Oram - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/99 with John Hardy

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/99

FrankW - Lead O/S - 1999 with Laura

Hidden - Lead - Jul/97

sdht - 1993

steve taylor - 2nd - Jun/90 with steve kerr

kp64zl - Lead - Jan/90 with Jim, Vanessa

MoWalker3 - 18/Sep/88

RichardMc - Lead - 04/May/86 with Rupert Hoare

Nigel Coe - 1985 with Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
allanfarrell, Hidden, dcomeau

Voting
Total votes cast 57
hard E10 of 22
E10 of 22
easy E114 of 22
hard HVS2 of 22
HVS6 of 22
easy HVS0 of 22
hard VS0 of 22
VS0 of 22
easy VS0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 21
5b0 of 21
easy 5b14 of 21
hard 5a6 of 21
5a1 of 21
easy 5a0 of 21
hard 4c0 of 21
4c0 of 21
easy 4c0 of 21
3 Stars0 of 14
2 Stars5 of 14
1 Star6 of 14
0 Stars0 of 14
Bag of .....3 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead48 of 81 (59.3%)
Followed27 of 81 (33.3%)
Toproped1 of 81 (1.2%)
Unknown5 of 81 (6.2%)

'Climbed'23 of 81 (28.4%)
clean O/S38 of 81 (46.9%)
clean β1 of 81 (1.2%)
clean rpt5 of 81 (6.2%)
dogged7 of 81 (8.6%)
dnf7 of 81 (8.6%)