I lead this O/S today before I seen that it was DANGEROUS!. There is lots of loose rock on the top out and the Tree belay is not ideal. There is also a very large block ready to fall!. It,s a shame as it is a fantastic line with great technical moves, needs loose rock sorting, possibly extra bolt and a lower off. Very hard for the grade hard 6c+ **
Daz8477 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Phil Davidson
Excellent route hard and feels serious, wouldn't say dangerous!
Parker550 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/15 with Daz Devey
Climbed about 3/4 of the way up only to see a huge pile of loose rock, some of which were handholds. The stones are just raring to come down and de-brain some poor sod on belay. Lowered off just after for safety of my mate.
Would be an excellent climb if the loose crap at the top was cleaned up but right now, it not safe at all.
Owen240 - Lead dnf - 2015
Backed off this at the 6th bolt. Was dirty and there was small sections of loose rock up it, which increased with height up the route. Immediately up and the left of the 6th bolt there is a large section of cracked rock up to just below the next bolt that are the only holds. This looked very suspect and I felt a large amount of rock shift when I gingerly tested the rock so I bailed. There was an insitu mallion here so it seems someone else had the same idea recently too.
This hasn't been well bolted (half number of bolts of 'Map of the Problematique' and same height) and felt more like a slate designer danger style trad climb (E3/E4 maybe) on bolts with large run outs and sometimes hard/awkward moves to reach the next bolt which was just out of reach from a good clipping position.
The climbing itself was similar to 'Map of the Problematique', but not quite as good and slightly less difficult, and would probably be a good route if cleaned up and rebolted.
shed_hed - Lead dnf - 03/May/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low
morgan91 - 20/Oct/12 with Bradleywhite
Found this quite intimidating. A good route, but very hard for the grade- Comparable in difficulty to 'map of the problematique' (F6c+)- and very strangely bolted. Although not dangerously run out (about 4m between clips), I found the bolts to be either off-balance, mid-move or just out of arms reach. It has half the number of bolts compared to the two new routes, which possibly explains the lack of ticks on here. Needless to say I'm not a very bold climber so most people will probably find it ok
Dan724 - Lead dnf - Jul/12