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Benny*** VS

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[Entering the Zawn of Benny, 1 kb]50m, 3 pitches. This popular but serious undertaking delves into the deep zawn at the western limits of The Promenade. Calm seas are essential for the first pitch - if it is remotely rough then keep away. 1) A1, 15m. Drop down and follow the side wall of the zawn just above the water, pulling on fixed threads and nuts to gain a rock bridge at the back of the zawn. 2) 4b , 15m. Climb the dark chimney above on good holds, until you are spat out of the blow hole, belay immediately. Lots of slings for threads needed. 3) 4b , 20m. Traverse awkwardly right to the arete, where a ledge leads right to easy ground. © ROCKFAX
FA. Scott Titt, D.Gumn, R.J.Crewe 24.4.76 24/Apr/1976

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Swanage A-Z, HVS Adventures, Through Routes!, Orange Spot Swanage, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Entering the Zawn of Benny © BALD EAGLE
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 76 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Flipping brilliant!!!
MontyH - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Brian and Paul

Always a joy!!
brian watson - AltLd rpt - 21/Jun/14 with Paul Milton, Andy Hobbs

jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

Adventurous, esoteric and exceptional are all words that can be associated with this spectacular horrible route. Not to mention wet, greasy and ornithological. Kit could have probably benefited from etriers and possibly even some upper body strength with a dusting of willpower, however with Rust and Hallams duet the 3 hours spent aiding the route did not pass maladroitly. I will never forget this day. GET ON IT!
Alex Hallam - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Matt Rust, KIt Perry

A very memorable 6hrs of climbing. P1 is great fun swinging around on threads until you reach the crux where you actually have to resort to aid. The belay has good acoustics which have been extensively tested. P2 has really cool rock but was very damp and greasy, didn't matter too much though. P3 guarded by a hostile and vocal seagull. If this is the only route you do all day and takes around 5-6 hrs then you're probably climbing with LT RN Kit Perry. A very good adventure!
rustaldo - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Alex, Kit Perry

LT RN Kit Perry, reporting in. I do declare this to be a route that is both awesome and physically strenuous in nature. T'was my first experience of "french free" and proved to be possibly the most difficult thing I have ever done in my 25 years - and that is saying something. I am a survivor of heartbreak, anemia and perpetual hard-core dogging, but P1 proved to be more challenging than any of these obstacles. Upon P2 we encountered a prodigious quantity of slime to rival even the gutters of the wrens mess. The rock was greasy to the touch and lacked all notions of friction, but through a combination of a rendition of Bohemian Rhapsody from both of my belayers (above and below) and an expletive filled self-berating rant from myself to myself, I somehow overcame the seemingly impossible and clawed my way into the sunlight. But alas, upon reaching the ledge I was greeted by the most putrid stench of birdshit. The fumes overcame me and I slipped into a deep stupor. When I awoke sometime later, the third member of our party had also reached the ledge. As my senses returned, I realised the cause of the stink. The ledge we had reached was home to a colossal cliff dwelling sea bird, hereafter referred to as a seagull. The scale of this bird was inconceivable, I dare say the RN would struggle to combat the aerial prowess of such a mammal. The threat0 of this creature forced us to forge a new path and seek out an alternative route from this ledge to the cliff top. As the other members of my party braced themselves for this task, I again lost consciousness and drifted in and out of a sweet dream, a memory of when I was able to climb 5+ cleanly. We eventually reached the summit sometime later that day, my recollection of the final pitch is hazy even now as I was so utterly exhausted from my battle on P2, however I do say that should you chance upon this splendid crag this is a fine route to be sure. I keenly advise all who wager themselves as good climbers of a grade of E1 should tackle the difficulties of Benny. I personally will endeavor from here on to stick to my personal best of HS.
Chris Perry - 2nd dog - 31/May/14 with Alex Hallam, Matt Rust

muppett - 2014

pretty cool. not sure went the right way on pitch 3.
will moy - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/13 with paul taylor

Lead P2, amazeballs, great adventure
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/13 with Will I Am

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Dan S

P1 only (and in reverse). Wow ! What a fantastic adventure - got soaked on the way in and by the time I got to the belay the sea was really rough ! My mate didn't fancy it at all so I had to reverse the first pitch. Shame I didn't get to do the second pitch but an excellent adventure none the less.
Ciderslider - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/13 with Ian Stephenson

hooray properly brilliant! led p1 and 3.
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with nick foot

Led 2nd pitch
halfwaythere - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/13 with tony

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 02/Jun/13 with Phil

Hidden - 2013

Scotsken - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Si Ball

took 1st and 3rd pitches. The whole climb is just fantastic. Crazy, crazy setting. Main point for anyone thinking about this is that the 1st pitch is definitely aid climbing, so use slings for foot-holds, don't just pull on the threads as this increases the difficulty to something akin to F6b+ without footholds :D....
johang - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/12 with James Lawson

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/12

Took for bloody ever and the climbing itself is fairly uninspiring but it's a great adventure and definitely a 3* climb, like a bigger version of Avernus.
Sam Husband - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Ed

Led P1 and P3, no concept of aid climbing made P1 much more difficult than it had to be. Took all day; brilliant adventure. Had some very close moments with my partner on the belay ledge.
Stroppy - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Sam Husband

Ian JL - 2012

Helen Gibson - 2012

A most excellent adventure. I led P2. Just monkeyed across the aid traverse and didn't faff with foot loops - strenuous but saved loads of time.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Toby

Been drawn to this one for ages and it lived up to expectations
Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 02/Oct/11 with Ivan

Led pitch 2, Alan led rest. Very wet and greasy, entertaining ...
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Alan B

Led P1,3. Good fun aiding into the cave, but very damp up the chimney. Popped out of the blowhole just as the sea fog was receding from the cliffs.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Frodo Stickel

Geart stuff, bit of an adventure. First bit of aid climbing for me.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Trevor

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Mar/11

colkurtz - AltLd - 19/Mar/11 with Robb

As clean as one can climb an aid route. I took P1(aid) and P3 for the glory.
Theeni - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with Matt Kemp

Lead 2nd Pitch
Danh89 - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/10 with LukeyG

Led pitch 1 and 3, took about 4 hours, snapped a thread but replaced it.
LukeyG - AltLd - Aug/10 with Danh89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/10

did the aid pitch using three 120cm slings, found it quite awkward. pitch 2 and 3 very straight forward.
nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 06/May/10 with mike

Second pitch, 4b/4c - top pitch pretty easy. Took 4 and half hours - mainly the aid pitch. A awesome atmospheric climb
climbtim - AltLd - 06/Apr/10 with Tom Thorne

Most of the manky old threads renewed 02.01.10
andy jennings - 02/Jan/10 with Floris

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09

What an experience! Messed up the first (aid) pitch for the second. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are pretty easy for VS technically; I think that the VS is there for the atmosphere and seriousness of the route. Highly recommended!
northnorthnorth - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Tomo

we did paper scissors stone for the lead and I won (lost) so I did P1 and P3....the scariest traverese I've ever done
SGD - AltLd - 22/May/09 with Tom Relf

roped solo - some of the fixed slings are getting worn and at least one broke, make sure to take some narrow tape or rope with you.
uncontrollable - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/09 with roped solo

Alex More - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Oct/08

John Roberts (JR) - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Ben Wolstenholme

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 23/Aug/08 with John Roberts (JR)

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08 with helen gibson

Fantastic climb. Really surreal in the zawn.
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/08 with Harry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/08

adrianjenner - 2nd O/S - 01/Jan/08 with Andre Snr.

Lead 2nd pitch - wow! what a route, full of adventure and great banter!
tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Harry Martin

david morse - AltLd - 22/Jul/07 with rampant and general

general - AltLd - 22/Jul/07 with Rampant, David Morse

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 28/Apr/07 with Christian Darr

Wow what a laugh
Dorset - 2nd - 2007 with Neil Weymouth

Found the aid pitch really quite hard; http://www.flickr.com/photos/featuresforfeet/tags/benny/
featuresforfeet - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Sarah Clough

Rob Kennard - 2006 with James Dunlop

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

thompson1000 - Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/05

feilx - AltLd - 2005 with Ian Lovatt

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 2005

five - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/04 with PW, TW

Hidden - 26/Jul/00

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

FrankW - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/99 with Giles H

r0b - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/97 with Andy Jefferies

sdht - 1993

kp64zl - May/91 with Paul

steve taylor - AltLd - Jun/90 with steve kerr

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/May/90 with Joe

bazzag - 2nd - 1988 with carl and co.

aided in and out of the cave - 1st aid pitch only
JamieAyres - Solo dnf - Jun/85 with Crispin Waddy

Dreamchaser - 16/Mar/83

Approx date. Got wet when I leant too far sideways on a nut on the aid section.
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1979 with Allan Yeend, Dave Kyle

Hidden - 24/Apr/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, DaveB61, andrewmcleod, Hidden, Sol Armer, Hidden, dh7892, jordan taylor, Joemanglerocks, Simon Cahill, Hidden, Hidden, bradholmes, iksander, hlegge, Dave89, Hidden, Hidden, Alan100, Ian Archer, Hidden, griff90, Big Lee, andyfeds, tdudley, Hidden, Ceridwen, crobinson, SC, Warren Earle, climber130887, Tom Gadsden, fivestar, leonjones

Voting
Total votes cast 45
hard HVS0 of 20
HVS0 of 20
easy HVS0 of 20
hard VS1 of 20
VS16 of 20
easy VS2 of 20
hard HS1 of 20
HS0 of 20
easy HS0 of 20
3 Stars24 of 25
2 Stars1 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 76 (2.6%)
Lead12 of 76 (15.8%)
Followed5 of 76 (6.6%)
Alt Leads44 of 76 (57.9%)
Unknown13 of 76 (17.1%)

'Climbed'33 of 76 (43.4%)
clean O/S38 of 76 (50.0%)
clean rpt3 of 76 (3.9%)
dogged1 of 76 (1.3%)
dnf1 of 76 (1.3%)