|48m, 3 pitches. Very intricate route finding and another set of bold and interesting link-ups. Start as for Race for the Oasis.
1) 6a, 18m. A bold pitch. From the chimney, move left for 3m then drop out and around the roof (crucial medium cam) to follow a right-leading handrail for 3m. Cross the bulge above to the foot of a slight corner on Tudor Rose. Peg and nut belay.
2) 6b, 10m. From the top of the corner move up right to a horizontal break in a bulge (peg). Make wild moves over the bulge onto the lip. Multiple large to medium cam belay.
3) 6a, 20m. Just right of an ammonite, climb the bold wall to wires. Trend right to a square-cut niche below the headwall. Climb direct (peg) to the top ledge. Move right to an exit corner. © ROCKFAX|
FA. Martin Crocker, Nigel Coe 28.8.94 28/Aug/1994