Rockfax Description
A remote route that takes a looping line across the hanging wall above the sea cave, then back across the capping white wall. Start at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs.
1) 5b, 42m. Move onto a ledge and pull up a short, steep wall to a slab on the right. Move steeply up left to a crack-line and jugs. Traverse left to a tiny short corner and rest ledge at its top. Move left to a short right-facing corner, then traverse left once again to the base of a corner/groove line. Climb this past the mid-height fault-line to a belay on ledges above.
2) 5b, 25m. From the right-hand end of the ledge move up a flake, and into a shallow groove on the left. Make a tricky move to a good horizontal crack above, then traverse rightwards to a narrow ledge. Move right along the ledge to a blocky corner and climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Hidden 07/Aug AltLd O/S
adam 24 21/Mar AltLd O/S

Cool roue. Led P1, very dusty

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead
andycash 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Ash
Ash Sayers 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Beautiful first pitch. Reachy steep second pitch, short but felt more like 5c. Had to rest on gear.

Rachel Slater 24/Aug/14 AltLd

Slipped off leading pitch 2 which was quite a funny surprise! Lowered down then did it clean from the belay.

Duncan Campbell 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Brilliant Sandy climbing. Nowhere desperate but the quality of the rock and or gear keeps it interesting.

with Rach
Monkey_Alan 16/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1. First "Proper" E2. Nearly went too far along the traverse, but got corrected by Lawrence. Good and pumpy, not too technical.

Sophie Nunn 01/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Luxulyan 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie
ianto ??/2013 -
AlexD 30/Sep/12 AltLd β

Led p1, awesome adventure! epic pump, routefinding and drag. V happy to make the belay! First swanage e2 :)

with Ed
Kevster 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
tonevert 30/Sep/12 2nd
Graham Westbrook 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Owen W-G 28/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, took ages, but it is more complicated than difficult. Route finding not obvious, but basic plan is to stay as low as possible along traverse. Foolishly deviated from ropework plan mid-pitch and suffered hellish drag.

with Ryan
Hidden 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Dusty start and the finish of both pitches is loose. Worth 1* I reckon

with LukeW
quiffhanger 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Complicated little thing with some nice technical climbing.

Dizz 26/Aug/12 AltLd
with Hugh T
givemetea 22/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Ali Taylor
Hidden 09/Aug/12 AltLd
jcook1980 01/Aug/12 2nd
with Dan Moore
Hidden ?/Aug/12 -
jacobjlloyd 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Glad to finally do this! Loads of fun. Both pitches were good, but pitch two was perfect. Nothing serious, though i didn't extend a runner on the traverse and paid for it later. Topless trad in january! Got to love Swanage!

with Jenni
Hidden 22/Jan/12 2nd β
manwithacam 21/Jan/12 AltLd

great route, the cliff is really big just here. My second E2 at Swanage. Easier than Gypsy I thought but sustained.

with Mike R
Sophie Nunn 04/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Toby
Toby Dunn 04/Oct/11 AltLd
with Sophie Nunn
WB 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

good route not that serious

with Guy
Misha 01/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Tony
GuyM ?/Sep/11 AltLd
with will
cooperman 13/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Great lead from Greg on P1 - airy and committing, sandy and some suspect rock but never desperate. tough move on P2 to gain horizontal - rested!

with Greg Foster
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
3 Names 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
brian watson 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Lead P1

with scott titt
clipskipper 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Finally got onto it, and enjoyed it. Second pitch crux sketchy, but it appears I missed a hold :-)

with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

P1 - fantastic position. And P2 with AlexD 30 Sep 2012. I can't believe the chopping block at the top of Oceanid is still there. There is almost nothing holding it now and it still won't budge.

TiffTiff 31/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Felix
feilx 31/Jan/09 AltLd rpt
with Tiff
Hidden ??/2009 -
Richard Horn 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 15/Sep/08 AltLd

Led P1 - great pitch.

with Simon Chandler
dannyboy83 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Heather Rogers
tonanf ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S


with Pep
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
haydng ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Will
Hidden ?/Oct/06 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
Hidden 09/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
nathanmanc ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Todd
cem 11/Dec/05 Lead O/S

Led both pitches

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Ian Jones ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
feilx ??/2005 -
Hidden 05/Sep/04 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 25/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
westaway ??/2003 Lead O/S
ellis ?/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Bull
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 -
Hidden 01/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
andyblain ?/Sep/98 AltLd O/S
Roget 01/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with jon
sadams 23/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
with Andy Long
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Mark Kemball 22/Aug/96 AltLd
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden ?/Jan/95 AltLd O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Nov/94 AltLd O/S
Robmwatt ??/1994 -
Hidden 14/Aug/93 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Lead
with steve kerr
keefe ??/1990 -
Hidden 11/Feb/89 AltLd
Pete Nugent 01/Nov/88 AltLd

I led p1. Was also given E2 in the 1986 CC Guide

with Lionel Edwards, Simon Harry
Dave Musgrove 28/Feb/87 AltLd O/S
with Richard Crewe
DDDD ??/1987 AltLd O/S

Nice positions but really not that great a climb

with Gary Crocker
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Nigel Coe 22/Feb/86 AltLd dog

Got knackered removing what I found out from Gordon was an in-situ nut.

Chris Terrey ?/Sep/80 2nd
with Mike Quantrell, Mike Morrison
Nigel Coe 06/Jan/80 Lead dnf

Escaped as for Nemesis.

with Alan Walmsley, John Walmsley
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
barny ??/1980 AltLd

Exciting moment as I was leading the first pitch - bloody great seagull flew out of one of the big cracks/recesses right into my face. Doug led p2. Nice route, great location.

with Wee Dougie
Nigel Coe 07/Oct/79 2nd dog

1 pt aid

with Frank Farrell
Falko ??/1977 Lead O/S

This was the second ascent and was watched by all three first (clean) ascentionist - no pressure there then!

with A N Other
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
stevoland, Hidden, Alex the Alex, Bernie L, EyebrowTom, Richard Justice, Hawkgirl, Hidden, hutchay, Ash Sayers, Ollie B, mike mo, puppythedog, nigel pearson, Hidden, LukeyG, crag_hopper_Jay, Chad123, Master Chief, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden, Mr Tickle, philhilo, Hidden, Hidden, Alaric, Kyuzo
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set