Dorset > Guillemot Ledge >
 
Facedancin'*** E3 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Tudor Rose
 
Oceanid >>
50m, 2 pitches. Stupendous wall climbing up the best line on the face. The climbing is hard, and high in the grade, but the gear is very good on the hardest sections. Start as for Tudor Rose at the right-hand end of the sea cave overhangs. 1) 6a, 25m. Follow Tudor Rose to the good, small rest ledge on its traverse and then climb up to a narrow overhang. Move up to the groove above and make a very hard move to enter it and exit right to a good hold. Climb the short wall above to the fault-line and a hanging belay on nuts, cams and a thread. 2) 6a, 25m. From the fault-line, move up right for 5m and then step left to a foot-ledge. Move up to the base of the white wall, then climb thin breaks and flakes, past twin pegs, to another peg, and a final, long move to a good hold just below a long ledge. Stand on the ledge, and traverse rightwards to a blocky corner. Climb this with care to the top. Belay on fence posts. © ROCKFAX
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 08/Jan/1983

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Sep/13

Led 1st pitch
Sophie Nunn - AltLd rpt - 19/Aug/13 with Richard

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/13 with Sophie

Thought I was on Tudor Rose! First crux felt pretty nails for 5b :) In 1 pitch - probably safer for a softer fall onto the pegs. They looked ok but not bomber. Top wall would be awesome/scary e4 without them.
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/12

In a single pitch. Really good!! No worries at E3 even without the pegs I expect. The face was pretty hyped up, but it is actually that fun! Either this is overgraded or I'm getting stronger, because I didn't find any 6a moves on the top face. The lower crux felt harder?! Spectacular outing. Really memorable.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/12 with Jenni

Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Jan/12

Sophie Nunn - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Toby

Managed to get in enough kit to make it safe assuming the pegs were all worthless (they're ok); but agree would feel E4 without them.
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Sophie Nunn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/11

Led P2. Pitch one was quite sandy/loose (is this expected at swanage?). Pitch two was slighty better, but will be E4 without pegs.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10 with Mikey G

Lead P1. Sweet little crux through the grooved bulge, but all quite steady apart from that. 2nd pitch is quality too!
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10 with alex mason

In one big pitch. Pegs not great.
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

3 pegs in the headwall still in reasonable nick. Great climbing on both pitches.
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - 2nd β - 07/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Sep/09

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Mark Glaister

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/08 with anna barnes

tonanf - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Pep

Richard White - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/07

done in 1 pitch
feilx - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06 with Sue Hazel

Bern - 2006

Excellent and fingery. Reliant on pegs for protection.
Ian Jones - 2nd O/S - Sep/05 with Andy Reeve

ellis - AltLd O/S - Aug/00 with Duncan Bull

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

steve taylor - AltLd - Aug/91 with mike robertson

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ash Sayers, Mark Warnett, Hidden, Kyuzo

Voting
Total votes cast 49
hard E40 of 17
E40 of 17
easy E40 of 17
hard E310 of 17
E37 of 17
easy E30 of 17
hard E20 of 17
E20 of 17
easy E20 of 17
hard 6b0 of 16
6b0 of 16
easy 6b0 of 16
hard 6a0 of 16
6a12 of 16
easy 6a2 of 16
hard 5c2 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
3 Stars15 of 16
2 Stars1 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead12 of 28 (42.9%)
Followed5 of 28 (17.9%)
Alt Leads10 of 28 (35.7%)
Unknown1 of 28 (3.6%)

'Climbed'2 of 28 (7.1%)
clean O/S20 of 28 (71.4%)
clean β2 of 28 (7.1%)
clean rpt1 of 28 (3.6%)
dogged2 of 28 (7.1%)
dnf1 of 28 (3.6%)