Rockfax Description
A tough but excellent route which has a right-hand variant on the mid-section also at 7b. The direct start is 7b+ ish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 7.5.90 07/May/1990

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Dancing Ledge apprenticeship, Dancing Ledge Sport Climbs.

Hidden 23/Jul TR
Hidden 17/Jul TR RP
Hidden 13/Jun Lead RP
chakrit 13/Jun Lead O/S
with Gary
Hidden 17/May Lead RP
Ed Babs 26/Apr Lead RP


with Alan Blanchflower, Brian Watson, Sophie Nunn, Phil Haigh, Jane Wier
brian watson 26/Apr Lead dog
Michael Allday 28/Sep/14 Lead β


RadekNowak 14/Sep/14 Lead RP

Pre-clipped 3 bolts to practise the sequence. After couple of tries, I went over the 3rd bolt but fell off just before the 4th. Ended up just over the ground and decided to rest. Next try I managed to climb the whole thing clean, but 3 clips were pre clipped. Half RP half TR I guess:/ Anyway, well soft for 7b!!!

Hidden 17/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Aug/14 TR dog
breed 14/Aug/14 Lead RP
Matt.c.Warner ?/Jun/14 -
keithpeck 18/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Nov/13 TR dog
paultaylor 29/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Tom P
Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead RP
Luxulyan 15/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 15/Aug/13 Lead dnf
with Richard
Luxulyan 08/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Dan Browne
karoo88 05/Aug/13 Lead RP

Strong right-hand gaston + heel rockover to reach the undercut, then jump to the good hold. Took me a good 10 goes to stick the undercut move - but what great climbing after that!!

Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Nov/12 Lead
Alex Norman 13/Oct/12 Lead RP

First 7b, 3rd go psyched!

will black 13/Oct/12 Lead RP

great route first 7b, got it in 6 attempts, felt like i should have done it a bit quicker tho. awesome climb !!

drewish 16/Sep/12 Lead RP

3rd RP - Great climbing. Soft

drewish 13/Sep/12 Lead dog

1st RP, Sat on third clip, then climbed from below 3rd clip to top.

Hidden 21/Aug/12 Lead RP
quiffhanger 04/Aug/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Very very nearly an on-sight but slipped going for the jug. Annoying.

with Joe
Hidden 26/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Jul/12 Lead dog
Bern 06/Apr/12 Lead RP

Excellent moves, maybe a tad soft for 7b?

with Dan
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Dec/11 TR dnf
Hidden 07/Dec/11 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 24/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Gazleah 31/Aug/11 Lead RP

second try

with Eve Carter
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead dog
i_a_coops 28/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
BicepAndrews 10/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead dog
La Mont 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead
dan gibson 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
with rob gibson
rubben 01/Aug/10 Lead RP

Lovely climb - deservedly gets 2* in my opinion!!! Quite a technical/burlish beginning, followed by a crimpy middle section, requiring a specific sequence and a lovely, albeit easy. upper section! Diverse and enjoyable!

with Marcus O'Leary, roland o'leary
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead dog
Marcus 01/Aug/10 Lead
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
Chris J Houston 20/Jul/10 Lead β
with martha
feilx 07/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Matt Perks
feilx 04/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Marcus
MarkRyder 22/Jun/10 Lead RP
with James P
jld579 ??/2010 Lead RP
pezzerrr 11/Oct/09 Lead RP
billb ?/Oct/09 Lead β
dmoir 23/Jun/09 Lead RP
dannyboy83 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
hippo99 20/May/09 Lead RP
with joe
Matt Shepherd 15/May/09 Lead rpt
adrianjenner 01/Aug/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 06/Aug/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
lx 21/Sep/06 Lead O/S


with rob
bigie bob 22/Jun/06 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 07/May/99 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
_m.cox_, serby, selman, tsyrett, jamespilgrim, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set