Rockfax Description
Steep stamina climbing. A powerful and technical sequence of moves gains a finger crack at mid-height. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 13.11.87 13/Nov/1987

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Winspit apprenticeship, Winspit Sport Climbs.

Edward Kwong 22/Aug Lead RP

Powerful first half but can be done efficiently with various sequences. 2nd half is a walk in the park on jugs, able to enjoy the moment. Clean 3rd go, first 7a :)

thomasmouse 21/Jun Lead O/S
with Alexius Vivian, Richard Hughes
Hidden 12/Apr TR dog
Matt.c.Warner ??/2015 Lead RP
Montse Shelbourne 30/Nov/14 Lead RP

very nice route, sustained and pumpy, amazing jugs and ledge towards the end of the route :)

with Nathan
sam_craddock 30/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Phil Belcher
josh Bamsey 26/Oct/14 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 26/Oct/14 Lead

Fell off below clip two, having gone the wrong way completely and used none of the right holds. A minute later I flashed it with Bamsey's perfect beta. Go figure..

with Josh Bamsey
nath_casper 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 28/Aug/14 2nd rpt
AlexD 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
RFWilkie 13/Jul/14 Lead RP
Andy Smallwood 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Newham 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
paultaylor 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Colette
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Beefy Bert ??/2014 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Oct/13 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Aug/13 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead dog
LucasHarazin 03/Aug/13 Lead β
Dan Lane 31/Jul/13 TR RP

Good climbing and not really that much of a stamina fest of you find the bomber no hands kneebar rest!

Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead dog
drewish 06/Jul/13 Lead RP

Tried this once last year and couldn't really remember it, that being said straight forward climbing. First go today

Monkey_Alan 25/Jun/13 Lead RP

3rd try. Had to re-work sequence around the 3rd bolt.

with Matt Tyson, Richard Stephenson
Luxulyan 25/Jun/13 Lead β
with Alan
Sophie Nunn 22/Jun/13 Lead RP

Got it first go of the year!

with Martin
Monkey_Alan 13/Jun/13 Lead dog

3 times. First two got to the 4th bolt and failed to read the move, 3rd go struggled to get past the 3rd.

TonyB 25/May/13 Lead RP


with Anni
anthony henry 04/May/13 Lead RP
chakrit ??/2013 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2013 -
Hidden ?/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 23/Oct/12 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Ana
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 19/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Dan_Carroll 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Kevster 27/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Paul Eckton 27/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
Ranaz 19/Aug/12 2nd dog

Beautiful climb, scary start with the walls creeping on you and bolts at inconvenient spots, but very well placed

Graham Westbrook 17/Aug/12 Lead RP
Kevster 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 17/Jun/12 Lead dnf
Ceridwen 17/Jun/12 2nd dog
Sophie Nunn 02/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Grace, Jen D
JCAshman 28/May/12 Lead β

First 7a! Jake & Olly

Sami Mandeel 11/May/12 Lead dog
Sami Mandeel 08/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Putting the draws in. Fairly easy, but a great route. Would make a good warm up route.

westyb3 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Heather Ogston
el_monty 12/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Si
Hidden ?/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Sami Mandeel 30/Mar/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Felt easy.

Sophie Nunn 18/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Alex, Toby
Sophie Nunn 18/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Alex, Toby
Toby Dunn 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Dennis, Sophie Nunn
Hidden 02/Jan/12 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Dec/11 Lead dog
Hidden 04/Dec/11 TR dnf
dale1968 23/Nov/11 2nd dnf
with Tom
Hidden 23/Nov/11 Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 20/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Richy
MarkRyder 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Ivan M
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Bern 13/Aug/11 Lead rpt
keithpeck 12/Jul/11 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 12/Jul/11 Lead β
j miller ?/Jul/11 Lead
feilx 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with james d
Hidden 17/Jun/11 TR
Linc 02/Jun/11 Lead β
dan gibson 17/May/11 Lead O/S
with andre hedger
Hidden 08/May/11 Lead RP
Tom Livingstone 04/May/11 Lead RP
cayteye 02/May/11 TR dog


timharrison 17/Apr/11 TR dog
with Matt Burrows
timharrison 11/Apr/11 TR dog
with Drew Searle, Jo Chia
mikewiggs ??/2011 Lead dog
Marti999 31/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with Harry Massey
mark_wellin 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Very pumpy. Hard (and greasy) start then an easy top half. Quite run out at the beginning. 7a sure

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead dog
Warren Earle 10/Oct/10 TR dnf
with Javi
Oli 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S


with Heidi
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Leeds 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Linc ?/May/10 Lead dog
crispygts ??/2010 -
JonS 22/Dec/09 Lead dog
tobydunford 18/Oct/09 Lead β
with Charlie
Monkey_Alan 23/Aug/09 TR dnf
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
willbatho 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
tscoobydoo ?/Aug/09 -

few more plays at it then im gonna lead it

with phillip belcher
JPGR ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Yvette
Jeronimo 21/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sam and Robert
sam8oy 21/Jul/09 Lead dog

1 fall

Martin Krasnansky 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S

climbed OS barefoot:) 6c max

Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead β
vertigo 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
dmoir 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rich Dagnam
Dandan82 31/May/09 Lead β
with Joel
sam_cox 15/Apr/09 Lead β
Hidden ??/2009 Lead β
dannyboy83 ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 31/Jul/08 Lead RP
with Harry
98%monkey 20/Jul/08 Lead dog

Should have rested a bit more before doing this. Just o/s a 6a+ then had about 10 mins before this. Rested at 3rd and 4th bolt. Will climb it clean next time, a real eye opener.

with Flatcap
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/08 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Mar/08 Lead RP
hippo99 ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S

mmmmm mmmmmm

with si hann rob kennard
Docent 26/Jan/08 Lead β

very nice route, 6a+ on Craggy Island

with stecu
Hidden ??/2008 -
brian watson ?/Nov/07 Lead RP
with steffani
MontyH 28/May/07 TR
with Brian
Richard Horn 14/Apr/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 06/Apr/06 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris_woodsy, lewiz, Dan_F, mikewiggs, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Wayne.Gaudin, trevor macalonan, flatcap, Hidden
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set