Rockfax Description
A great route - nicely sustained and varied - that features a tricky no-hands rest and, near the top, one of the best finger locks around. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 3.1.88 03/Jan/1988

Ticklists: Dorset Sport Climbs A-Z, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Winspit apprenticeship, SW Climbs - Swanage, Winspit Sport Climbs.

Martin Bagshaw 11/Oct Lead dog

Went the wrong way stupidly, completely mis- read the no hands rest. Gutted as I could of made the onsight. Very nice route.

with Rafal Malczyk
Dandan82 27/Sep Lead rpt
mark schramm 12/Sep TR dog
Danhan 12/Sep 2nd dog

Dogged all the way

with Scott, Mark
jonleighton 12/Sep Lead O/S
Mattlamb90 30/Aug Lead dog

Major Beer Shakes, Fell off a sweaty last hold not even pumped, couldn't be bothered to even get back on.

with Ryan, Luke
willsm11 29/Aug Lead β
with Chris Lancaster
Edward Kwong 21/Aug Lead RP

Lovely climb, fun working out the sequence. Opportunities for 2 decent rests (one no hands at halfway, one wide bridge slightly higher up). My first 6c+, clean 2nd go :)

Neal Jobling 18/Aug Lead RP
with John Rensten
dom94 09/Aug Lead RP

Fluffed the onsight after completely missing the no hands rest, got it the next time. Cracking route, that cracking at the top is epic

k_k 02/Aug Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23/Jul Lead β

Have been up to third bolt previously, beta flash the rest today. Feels run out between 2nd and 3rd bolt, but rest is lovely.

el_monty 23/Jul Lead RP
TomJ 19/Jul Lead RP

Awesome route, and great for learning a few technical tricks on! - I think if it wasn't for the no-hander (which is exactly where you need it!) it would definitely be a 7a...

with Kuang
Sami Mandeel 14/Jul 2nd dog
etrillaud 21/Jun Lead dnf
chris_woodsy 20/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jun Lead RP
Matt.c.Warner 19/Jun Lead O/S
ian d f 09/Jun Lead O/S

Missed the mid-height rest, but it still wasn't too bad

with Adam, Richard J
Hidden 27/May Lead dog
Hidden 27/May Lead dog
goi.ashmore 27/May Lead RP
with Alice Howe
Jamie Everitt 10/May Lead dnf

Accidentally started this thinking it was So Naughty (5a), got to the first clip!

with Ashley Long, Rob Edwards, Tessa Wiggens
professorcobra 03/May Lead dog
JUSTADUDE 20/Apr Lead dog

Was a lot harder than I had remembered?

with Shane
paultaylor 20/Apr Lead dog
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Apr TR dnf
tsyrett 06/Apr Lead RP

Great route, the climbing is so varied, it's taken me a while to get this one and finally got it on my 4th attempt today which made it even better.

rachelvlc 05/Apr 2nd
anthony henry 05/Apr Lead rpt
with Ali
mr_cf 05/Apr Lead dog
Matti Puckridge ?/Apr Lead
samparsons 21/Mar Lead dog
Matti Puckridge 15/Mar -
CristinaB 18/Jan TR dog
Hidden 18/Jan Lead dog
tsyrett 06/Dec/14 Lead dog
tsyrett 06/Dec/14 TR RP

Tricky to find a comfortable rest after the third bolt

jezb1 05/Dec/14 2nd

Lots of rests, no one mega hard move, but full on.

Hidden 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S
josh Bamsey 20/Sep/14 Lead RP
jacobjlloyd 14/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Peach
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead dog
philhaigh 05/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Mike Gubbins, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 05/Sep/14 Lead RP
Barry Kerslake 05/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Gem
Gem Minihan 05/Sep/14 TR dog
Gem Minihan 30/Aug/14 TR dnf
robbo99 30/Aug/14 Lead dog
robbo99 30/Aug/14 TR dog

Almost made it to the no hands rest. Hard climbing

Acoustic_Olly 18/Aug/14 Lead RP
JUSTADUDE 20/Jul/14 TR β

Did it at the end of the day, took a fall the first time. Did it a second time and got it clean! Favorite route of the day, will come back and lead =]

Rory Bascombe 16/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Dad
RFWilkie 13/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead dog
timharrison 07/Jul/14 TR dog
with Matt Carwardine
Andy Smallwood 03/Jul/14 Lead β
anthony henry 02/Jul/14 Lead RP
Alex Hallam 14/Jun/14 TR dog

Top route, the 'rest' is pretty killer for the left foot but think it will go when feeling stronger.

rustaldo 14/Jun/14 Lead RP

Really good route, fell off just short of the rest which was a shame. First half is probably tougher than the top, just need to make full use of the rest.

with Alex
andyman666999 ?/Jun/14 Lead dog

Again, lovely climb. Has it all. Need to man up and gain some stamina. Will be back until I get this !

with Cathryn Johnson
nath_casper 18/May/14 Lead RP
paultaylor 06/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead O/S
mishabruml 22/Apr/14 TR dnf

Edit 16/04/2015: Came back! Tried after a whole day of trad... rock was dry but I still couldn't do it. Got a bit further than last time though! *** Bit damp and at the end of the session meant I didn't reach the chains... great route though, will be coming back!

with Matt King
Shane Willis ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
Beefy Bert ??/2014 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Nov/13 Lead RP
paultaylor 10/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with Tom P
andyman666999 09/Nov/13 Lead dog

Tried for the o/s as a warmup. Reversed the start 3 times. 2nd attempt was pumped at the pinch prior to the rest. Felt a lot easier. Great, varied climbing will be back when daylight lasts longer.

with Martin
Cheese Monkey 02/Nov/13 Lead dog

3 goes and nearly had it. Beaten by pump. Many ways to do the crux but none easy!

with Ian M
Jay81 20/Sep/13 Lead RP
Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/13 Lead RP

Second try tonight.

AlexD 10/Sep/13 Lead RP

Really is the best finger-lock in the world - totally saved me when my foot slipped!

Monkey_Alan 10/Sep/13 Lead dog

Worked out the crux, then messed up clipping the third bolt. Much faffing led to being too pumped and had to rest on the bolts.

AlexD 30/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ed
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jon_Warner 03/Aug/13 Lead dog

Good route. One to come back to clean.

with Jenni
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd β
LucasHarazin 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 31/Jul/13 Lead RP

First RP, tricky.

Dan Lane 31/Jul/13 TR dog

Didn't feel to hard, certainly doable with a couple more goes.

Luxulyan 19/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Martin, Sophie
chakrit 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Luxulyan 03/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Alan
marcb 30/Jun/13 TR dog
with Ed Ratcliffe, Martin Evans
Hidden 12/May/13 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2013 -
drewish 06/Nov/12 Lead RP

Went back and put this to rest. Steady if you use the rest. Great route!

martin one 27/Oct/12 TR dog
with joel
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
drewish 13/Oct/12 Lead dog

Blew the o/s - flash pump ahoy! Got it clean straight after on top rope.

Hidden 22/Sep/12 TR dog
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead RP
gibsond 28/Aug/12 TR dog

Need to get stronger to lead this route - don't feel comfortable at the start or the middle.

GPN 25/Aug/12 Lead
with Annette
Dibdawg 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Wayne Gaudin, Dean Merchant
Dean177 08/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Wayne Gaudin, Alan Dibben
Curly Rich 28/Jul/12 TR dog
with Carlos
Jonathan Emett 01/Jul/12 Lead RP

2nd go. much easier when you know which holds are good!

with Paul
Hidden 01/Jul/12 TR dog
cooperman 26/Jun/12 Lead RP

Second go. Fab, technical climbing

with Greg Foster
Stuart Johnston 24/Jun/12 Lead dog
with Ian, Daniel Tipton
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead dnf
dswansonlow 02/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 15/May/12 TR dog
matt_read 13/May/12 Lead dog

best route of the lot!

paultaylor 13/May/12 Lead β
Monkey_Alan 01/May/12 TR dog

3x. Still not worked out how to get through the crux.

gibsond 01/May/12 TR dog

Last route of the night. Think I was pulled up lots of it, but did get to the top.

Justin T 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Really nice sustained and technical route!

Kevster 15/Apr/12 Lead RP

2nd attempt, 3rd bolt felt airy on OS.

Graham Westbrook 13/Apr/12 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Dennis, Sophie Nunn
nath_casper 07/Jan/12 Lead dog
Thinker01 03/Dec/11 Lead dog
with Kev Stott
Thinker01 03/Dec/11 TR RP
with Kev Stott
nath_casper 20/Nov/11 Lead dog
Hidden 29/Sep/11 TR dog
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Theo, Bob
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 26/Jul/11 TR rpt
with James Bisset
Sophie Nunn 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
with James Bisset
keithpeck 12/Jul/11 Lead RP
BicepAndrews 12/Jul/11 Lead RP
Linc 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
j miller ?/Jul/11 Lead
Sophie Nunn 14/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Brian
brian watson 14/Jun/11 TR dog
Linc 01/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead RP
ASchwirtz 29/May/11 Lead dog
gibsond 10/May/11 TR dnf

Got cold before and did not get started really.

Hidden 10/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 10/May/11 TR RP
Hidden 05/May/11 TR dnf
Monkey_Alan 05/May/11 TR dog
Sophie Nunn 05/May/11 TR dog
with Alex
AlexD 05/May/11 Lead dog
with Sophie
JonBrown 09/Apr/11 Lead dog
with Murray
Hidden 06/Apr/11 Lead RP
cayteye 02/Apr/11 TR dog

a poss red point one day when i'm stronger - did all the moves but not enough stamina to link them

Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Mar/11 TR rpt
London Luke 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/10 TR dog
Dandan82 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
timharrison 06/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Jo Chia
timharrison 30/Jun/10 Lead dog
with Rob Tearle
thomasmouse 25/Jun/10 Lead dog
timharrison 12/Jun/10 Lead dnf
with Jo Chia
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 25/May/10 Lead dnf
mark_wellin 14/May/10 Lead rpt

i didn't manage to find the no hands rest or the bloody fingerlock... i was excited too. easy climbing, just pumpy and must get your hands in the right order through the crux

uncontrollable 13/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead rpt
tom106 26/Apr/10 Lead
with mike robbins
crispygts ??/2010 -
JonS 22/Dec/09 Lead RP
dswansonlow 28/Nov/09 Lead dnf
with John Brown
timharrison 31/Oct/09 TR dog
timharrison 31/Oct/09 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead rpt
tobydunford 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with Charlie
Warren Earle 17/Sep/09 TR dog
with Javi
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead dog
dmoir 06/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Andy Lamont
tobydunford 10/May/09 Lead dog
with Charlie
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
riddle 16/Nov/08 Lead dog
trevor macalonan 31/Oct/08 Lead dnf
with Richy
sam_cox ?/Oct/08 Lead β
Ed Babs 08/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Harry
brian watson ?/Aug/08 Lead RP
with scott titt
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tobydunford 26/May/08 Lead dog
JPGR 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Steve
Richard Horn 20/Apr/08 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Mar/08 Lead rpt
Docent 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with stecu
Hidden 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Oliver Sherman 07/Oct/07 Lead RP
jchenoweth 30/Sep/07 TR dog
with Alfie
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead dog
dannyboy83 11/Jun/07 Lead O/S
hippo99 ?/May/07 Lead RP

nice route

Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 16/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Jun/06 2nd dog
dan gibson ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with eddie church
Rob Kennard ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2005 -
shoulders 11/Apr/04 Lead
with maria, mart, chrisevans, dai
Roget 29/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
migs493 15/Mar/98 Lead dog
with Steve Blake
kp64zl ?/Mar/97 TR
rob.grafton 10/Jun/96 2nd dnf
with Bruce
Mark Kemball 23/Jul/95 Lead dog
with Lee Bartrop
Bruce Kerr 12/Apr/95 Lead
with Perric Crellin
steve taylor ??/1995 Lead
Nigel Coe 03/Jan/88 2nd dog

FA, trad, 2 rest points

with Tim Dunsby
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
professorcobra, chris_woodsy, selman, tsyrett, AlexBush, Hidden, mikewiggs, Hidden, Hidden, Pegleg, Siderunner, Hidden
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set