UKC

Rockfax Description
175m. A fun line although the upper section is much better than the lower buttress, which is a little grassy in places.

1) 6a, 20m. Slabby, featured rock leads to a belay just above the tree tops.
2) 5c, 35m. Cross easy ground, past an optional abseil/belay and up some grassy grooves before climbing the slab above. At the top of the slab, cross the grassy ledge to belay beneath a steep wall.
3) 6b, 40m. Climb the wall via cracks and crimps before moving left at the top to a belay level with the top of a single tree.
Scramble down rightwards, via a short section of fixed rope, to belay beneath a wide crack.
4) 6b, 20m. The off-width crack might best be described as 'traditional'. Enjoy!
5) 6c, 25m. The thin flake-crack is as good as it looks but is no pushover. Luckily the difficulties are concentrated into the first 10m, after which the angle kicks back.
6) 6c, 35m. A long, tough but rewarding pitch to finish. Climb the steep, thin cracks to a hand-crack which is both technical and physical, and keeps coming right to the end. Step left towards the top of the pitch to reach the ridge crest and a well-positioned belay. Scramble up the ridge easily to reach the top of Catyoucha Man and the approach path. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jack Geldard 29 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route. Remarkably good crack climbing for the top 3 pitches (they are by far the best, but the lower ones are worth doing as you are there anyway we thought). Whole route was well bolted. Very good bolted belays. All pitches not difficult for their given grades and very obvious where to go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route. Remarkably good crack climbing for the top 3 pitches (they are by far the best, but the lower ones are worth doing as you are there anyway we thought). Whole route was well bolted. Very good bolted belays. All pitches not difficult for their given grades and very obvious where to go.

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High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
Votes cast 4
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
La Directe (Diretta)

Grade: ED1 ***
(Mont Blanc du Tacul)

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