Greater Manchester > Hobson Moor Quarry >
Dragon's Route* E3 5c

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[Craig Bailey crimping hard on Dragon's Route (E3 5c*), Hobson Moor Quarry., 2 kb]14m. The thin left-hand crack leads to a break, step left and power up the crusty flake. Strenuous but not too technical. © ROCKFAX
FA. Loz Francomb 1979

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: Craig Bailey crimping hard on Dragon's Route (E3 5c*), Hobson Moor Quarry. © Architectonic
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This climb is in 112 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/14

Pretty sure there is no 'crusty fake' to be had any more, needless to say I had a bit of a mare. IMO gear isn't that great although there is a crucial very small cam on the crux.
Stroppy - Lead dog - 07/Sep/14 with Josh Brown

kkris - TR dog - 28/Aug/14

JimboWizbo - 2nd rpt - 09/Aug/14 with gaz, Beth

Beth-Cath-T - TR rpt - 09/Aug/14 with Gaz

Pre placed gear. Seems to have had another chip after the last time I climbed this, on the hold under the first chip
Beth-Cath-T - Lead RP - 09/Aug/14 with Gaz, JimboWizbo

kkris - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/14 with Graham

kkris - TR dog - 03/Jul/14 with Graham

Pumpy. There is an OK small cam to protect the crux.
JimboWizbo - Lead RP - 18/May/14 with Beth

Pumpy! Got it all figured out, will lead next time.
JimboWizbo - TR - 27/Apr/14 with Beth

Loved this. Due to height (me!) had to use an intermitent edge to get to ledge near top. Ready to lead!
Beth-Cath-T - TR RP - 27/Apr/14 with JimboWizbo

Hidden - TR dog - 24/Apr/14

g1m147 - TR - 29/Dec/13

Mike W - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Jul/13

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13 with gaz

Done with a view to preparing to lead. Did it clean but no realistic hope of leading, right at my limit and the missing hold does not help !
Stoff - TR O/S - 07/May/13 with gpcomps

gpcomps - TR dog - 07/May/13 with Chris Bridgland

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead β - 15/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/13

johnself1603 - TR O/S - 2013 with Peter Stockton

fifth - TR - 2013

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/12 with Donks

akhughes - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12

Yup, the right hand hold at the crux has recent damage and is apparently (I haven't climbed it before but the person who I climbed it with had) much, much worse. It can still be done with a long reach but is stiff for 5c if you don't have long arms.
MeMeMe - 2nd - 12/Aug/12 with Cliff

missing a hold? looked like recent dammage crux felt like a long reach to jugs by a good rp and a poor cam (i havn't been here befor it just didn't seam right)
mwatson - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/12

after dogging on first go purely psychological.
Jake Young - Lead rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Mike

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/Jul/12

david morse - TR - 12/Jul/12 with rampant

Olli-C - 2nd β - 27/Jun/12 with chi

Rachel Slater - Lead β - 27/Jun/12 with Andrea Morgan

Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Olli Crudge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12

Dave Foster - 2nd rpt - 25/Jun/12 with Si 2

ojp - 2nd - 25/Jun/12 with Dave, Si

Sam Simpson - 2nd O/S - 15/May/12 with Tom Dolden

easy at e3 prbly e1
Tom Doldon - Lead rpt - 15/May/12 with sam simpson 48

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 14/May/12

ste_d - TR rpt - 08/May/12 with shunt

ste_d - TR rpt - 16/Apr/12 with shunt

ste_d - TR rpt - 22/Mar/12 with shunt

ste_d - TR - 06/Mar/12 with shunt

Followed Dad up it when I was younger, felt good to come back and lead it today after finding it so hard. Good but spaced gear, runout but little chance of decking.
Joughton - Lead β - 03/Mar/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Jan/12

Hidden - TR - 08/Jan/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 26/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/Sep/11

Matt Reid - TR O/S - 16/Aug/11 with shunt

Hidden - TR - 01/Jul/11

rockjedi - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Chris Walker, Sara Williams

Bowzle - TR - 12/Jun/11

Sam Simpson - TR - 19/May/11 with Christian Turford

gpcomps - TR dog - 10/May/11 with Chris Bridgland

Stoff - TR O/S - 10/May/11 with gpcomps

R8JimBob88 - TR rpt - 14/Apr/11 with Simon

mattnuttall - TR rpt - 03/Mar/11 with Matt Heyes, Matthew Tink Taylor

mikedelderfield - Lead RP - 2011 with Steven Delderfield

davefount - 2nd O/S - 2011

Hidden - TR - 20/Nov/10

finally, ran round the quarry for a warm up and jumped straight on, felt easy :)
JamieSparkes - Lead RP - 20/Oct/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - 2nd rpt - 20/Oct/10 with Jamie

Wanted to lead this with a full rack, instead of "gear by numbers" as I did the other day. Got very shaky this time, pumped, jelly arms, 4ft above break and bomber cam, but calmed down enough to get it together and lead through clean, no dogs.
bradscorner - Lead RP - 15/Oct/10 with Danny Vaughan

Top roped, found the moves to be strenuous but quite do-able. 2nd T/R to check gear placements, then led clean and smooth. Felt really confident, but I would after two practices!
bradscorner - Lead RP - 13/Oct/10 with Danny Vaughan

in the dark. again!
JamieSparkes - TR rpt - 06/Oct/10 with Nick

Jim the Baker - Lead RP - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Aug/10

Done harder E1s. Nice route though and bomber gear where it counts.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/10 with Andy

Hidden - TR dnf - 05/Jul/10

JamieSparkes - TR rpt - 20/Jun/10 with Nick

PeteH - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/10 with Noel Peatfield

JamieSparkes - TR rpt - 02/Jun/10 with Nick

gpcomps - TR O/S - 01/Jun/10 with Chris Bridgland

JamieSparkes - TR RP - 05/May/10 with Nick

Nick1812P - TR β - 05/May/10 with Jamie

I seconded after James's lead. Didnt feel to hard but I wouldn't like to place the gear!
R8JimBob88 - 2nd β - 22/Apr/10 with James

jamesgodwin64 - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/10 with R8JimBob88

topped the moves about 6-7 times its really pumpy for me but a nice short route (suprising how pumped you get from it!). i feel as if the gear is ok and evenly spread up the route but i think its easier to press on after placing the mid way gear (best chance of not decking with good belayer)
jamesgodwin64 - TR rpt - 30/Jan/10 with Phil Craven

Training line, we repeated this 8 times each non-stop, to build stamina
bradscorner - TR - 2010 with Danny Vaughan

MarkCoupe - 2010

Franco Cookson OLD - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Dan Lane

Nick1812P - TR dog - 09/Sep/09

wasn't happy committing to top moves above shite gear, lowered off
JamieSparkes - Lead dnf - 09/Sep/09 with Nick

simonp - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

Very nice, gear already on Qdraw's heavily worked, but still good. No way it is E3.
Dan Lane - Lead RP - 01/Jul/09 with Gareth Williams, Dan Money

dpmUK - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/09 with Little Dan

Stoff - TR - 14/Apr/09

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09 with Alan Holden

themax16 - TR rpt - Apr/09 with Tom Makin

cymjt - 2009

First E3. Probably a bit soft
felixthelion - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Luke

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 22/May/08 with Dave kettle

maybe_si - TR - 10/May/08

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08 with Jonny Bull, Tim Marjot

Wish I hadn't shunted this a couple of months back as it felt pretty straight forward.
kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2008 with Ben

Sean Kelly - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/07

Hidden - TR O/S - 06/Jun/07

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/May/07 with John

kevin k - TR O/S - Jul/06 with dave

katie75 - Lead - Jul/06 with dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/05

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Liam/tom/naylor

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - Jun/05

Got rained off in The Peak so ended up here. Most things wet so top-roped about 8 times for some training and then led it (once it had dried off!) placing all gear on lead.
Mark A Humphries - Lead RP - 30/Oct/04 with gary wood

Carl Smethurst - TR - 17/Oct/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/01

robtrooper - 1996

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Total votes cast 82
hard E40 of 28
E40 of 28
easy E40 of 28
hard E31 of 28
E39 of 28
easy E38 of 28
hard E28 of 28
E21 of 28
easy E21 of 28
hard 6a0 of 30
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easy 6a0 of 30
hard 5c1 of 30
5c22 of 30
easy 5c4 of 30
hard 5b3 of 30
5b0 of 30
easy 5b0 of 30
3 Stars1 of 24
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1 Star14 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead48 of 112 (42.9%)
Followed16 of 112 (14.3%)
Toproped44 of 112 (39.3%)
Unknown4 of 112 (3.6%)

'Climbed'22 of 112 (19.6%)
clean O/S38 of 112 (33.9%)
clean β7 of 112 (6.2%)
clean rpt17 of 112 (15.2%)
clean RP13 of 112 (11.6%)
dogged10 of 112 (8.9%)
dnf5 of 112 (4.5%)