Derbyshire > Shining Clough Rocks >
 
Pisa Super Direct*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Pisa Direct
 
Stable Cracks >>
[Cat Black, 2 kb]20m. Super Direct and super route. Follow the crack just left of the arete (as for the previous climb) to 'the leaning tower' then climb the bulging crack (loose chockstones)and well positioned crest of the buttress. Low in the grade and one of the best routes on Bleaklow. © ROCKFAX
FA. John Gosling late 1960s 1967

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 'Soft' Peak HVSs..

Photo: Cat Black © Claire-Jane Carter
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 196 logbooks, and on 40 wishlists.

Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Ed Green, Chris CMC

Matt Harmon - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Alex McCann

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Nick

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

amccann - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Matt H

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Aug/14

The best Hvs 5a on grit, the start is the crux and more like 5b for the short:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 06/Aug/14 with Andrew Deckon

jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Geoff Hannis

grrrrrrrh - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Jon Gill

georgenvk - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Becks87

Truly one of the best climbs in the area if not on grit. The walk in is definitely worth it, quality
atom - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with josh forde

belay bunny turned bad - Lead - 26/Jul/14 with al

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/14

quickdrawmcraw - Lead - 26/Jul/14 with liz osbourn

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/14

Hardcore Pat - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Sir William of pettitsmith

David_Gledson - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Alan

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Will Harris

Half on frans gear after he traversed off, didnt think it was as good as east rib!
shaunhumphreys - Lead β - 02/Jul/14 with franhammond92

Tried to lead but got scared off by the bulge. Nice boulder problem start I though
franhammond92 - 2nd - 02/Jul/14 with Shaun Humphreys

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jun/14

Robb Bert - 22/Jun/14

j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14

Lovely route, been on my list for years. Perfect high summer evening
manwithacam - Lead - 18/Jun/14

The first move is tricky for shorter folk and took me about 10 attempts at stacked finger jams to finally reach the ledge. One day I'll tackle the walk in and re-attempt this one, as it is a lovely route that is sadly above my ability right now.
newskin - 2nd dnf - 18/Jun/14 with Dan Metcalfe

Did direct start just right of the arÍte not left?Wow great great, much harder than it looks. Like all the routes here today full on 3 star routes.
simon1965 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with James

Stig - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/14 with Simon1965

Hidden - 2014

adie84 - 2014

IanGilbertJones - 2014

MDowson - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with sam webb

slacky - 2nd rpt - 18/Aug/13 with Chris Saunders

markfairbank - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Anne Gumbley, Ray Sharples

Anne Gumbley - 2nd dog - 20/Jul/13 with Ray Sharples, Mark Fairbank

Warm-up route but what a belter!
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Paul Clarke

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/13

Phill Mitch - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with bleggs

Sidekick - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

admackie - Lead - 13/Jul/13 with paul renwick, chris palmer

sopaz - 2nd - 13/Jul/13

drysori - Lead - 13/Jul/13

jimbonfire - 13/Jul/13

Derek Furze - Lead - 09/Jul/13

One of the best HVS routes in the Peak. Second attempt from the ground up as initially committed to the wrong sequence on the crux and ended up too far right on a blank wall. Tired after 3 full days of climbing in the Peak and Lakes. Despite the blip it was absolutely superb.
gavinpeach - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Kasia

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jul/13

apw - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Chris Wiles

Fragmod - 2nd - 06/Jul/13

Mowglee - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Josh, Ed Hutchings

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13

Hidden - 01/Jul/13

Commiting moves over bulge! My guide said VS but would of said HVS..
dangmtb - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

The Grist - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Paula lockett

jimbobted - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with dangmtb

now in my top 5 HVSs
Mr Messy - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with mike

Bill Lawrence - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/13 with tommy martin

bwestwood - 2nd - 18/Jun/13

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with bwestwood

tsjx - Lead - 09/Jun/13 with Garry

MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Bruce Hayward

Climbster - 2nd β - 06/Jun/13 with Ian

We did this,Via Principia,Phoenix Climb and East Rib and had one of the best days climbing for a while. What a excellent place!
Bloke on a Rope - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Matt

snapperdan - 2nd dog - 05/Jun/13

JEP - Lead - 04/Jun/13 with Jules

Had to rest below the bulge trying to get a wire out. Must retry when fresh.
Jules Lane - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/13 with Mynydd Johnathon

Si dH - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Neil Furniss

Really good!
Jake Young - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with liam

alasdair19 - 2013

Frank the Husky - 2013

dominic lee - Solo - 09/Sep/12 with nathan lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12

David Smith - 2nd - 06/Sep/12 with john stanger

This felt hard and sustained, some puffing/swearing required. Awesome route, one of the finest of 2012. Right hand start taken.
Hardonicus - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Ben Powrie

BenedictIEP - 2nd dog - 11/Aug/12 with Haydn Martin

John Nuttall - Lead - 08/Aug/12 with Clive

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12

Loved it!
Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Tom Dolden

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/12

chrisbussell - Lead - 29/May/12 with Tim O'Neill

ColinD - Lead - 29/May/12

Brown - 2nd - 26/May/12 with Lily

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

Amazing climb, well worth three stars and a top50 spot. Sustained 5a I reckon, but the protection is superb in the lower crack while the climbing flows through the bulge very nicely indeed. Despite this, I felt exposed and Steve got a barrage of increasingly excited blasphemy...
Sam Cooke - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with stevetheleg

stevetheleg - 2nd - 01/Apr/12 with Sam Cooke

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 27/Mar/12 with Rob Middleton

fifth - 2012

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 02/Oct/11 with Martin Veale, Louise Pellett

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/11

pauldr - 2nd - 29/Sep/11 with andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11

OffshoreAndy - Lead O/S - Sep/11 with UKC Paul

riff156 - Lead dog - 20/Aug/11 with Jo Smith

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Flash, Andy F

wolverine - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with Matt Sparkes

Mr Sparkle - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Mike Hayes

took the arete to start as the direct start was a bit grubby.
Steven Andrews - 2nd - 27/Jun/11 with Richard Lines

Stolen from a showery forecast and bathed in evening sunshine! A super climb.
Hoyes - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/11 with Rachel B

Bottom is hard for the short, top is hard for the weak! The gear is bomber though
Batt - 2nd - 21/Jun/11 with James Hoyes

drcorbasisgod - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with David Gilling

JRae - 2nd - 21/May/11 with A Saul

Peter Holder - Lead O/S - 04/May/11 with Aimee Wariner

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/May/11

Dave Gilling - Lead - 04/May/11 with Chris Parson

Rested below the bulging crack, Very good route!
howlingbaboon - Lead dog - 25/Apr/11 with Scott

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/11

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Graeme

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 16/Apr/11 with Jim

catblack - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Andy Barker

theotherpetehill - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

liamoloughlin - Lead - 12/Jun/10

Ram MkiV - Lead β - 24/May/10 with Ivan, tez

Hidden - Lead - 23/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/10

davidwright - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Sam

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/May/10

Pilch - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Graham

Al's warm up route! I had one fall over the bulge as didn't know whether to trust the chockstone.
embob - 2nd dog - 22/Aug/09 with Alex

OMG how good is this!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Pete aka Dad

Hidden - Lead - 22/Aug/09

Roger Cruse - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Kris

Steep crack line, fluffed it on the bulge...
Alex Thompson - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/09 with Mike Hibbert

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Jun/09

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with mike waters

Started more directly using the thin cracks to right of arete. Mike led off, but fell on the crux. I took over and led through. Careful footwork eases the strenousness. The crux is well protected and consists of a set of steep moves.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 02/Jun/09 with Mike Tempest

Jon Dittman - 2nd - 02/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jun/09

Felt tough F6a. Started on cracks to the right - seemed 5b. Hard pumpy bit through overhang.
dashitboarder - TR - 31/May/09 with Dad and Jess

Hidden - Lead - 31/May/09

Stunning route, best of the day (probably the crag too).
slacky - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Nick Taylor

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Apr/09

Tony Little - 2nd - 21/Apr/09 with Dan

Started more directly using thin cracks to right of arete.
max_chan - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with Lou

joe larner - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08

gazfellows - 2nd - 07/May/08 with shaun d

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

mark s - Lead O/S - 2008 with andi,rach

John Kettle - 11/Aug/07

Shad - 2nd - May/07

swoosh - 2nd dog - 29/Apr/07 with robin gay

swoosh - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Jamie Armatage

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Aug/06

ChrisJD - Lead - 12/Aug/06 with rc

Tom Phillips - 2nd - 05/Aug/06 with mick

colin milton - Lead - 28/Jul/06 with horace

spacey - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with paul evans

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/06 with helen gibson

A Crook - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Duncan Hassell

Stig - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/05 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Hidden - 2nd β - 21/Aug/05

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/05

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/05

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jul/05

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 2005 with Ian Wyatt

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Sep/04

Trobbo - 2nd - 05/Jul/04 with mark humphries

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/04

cem - 2nd - 16/May/04 with Rod Strachan

Ben1983 - Lead O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/03

Stig - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/03 with Jonathan Teale

malc - Lead dog - 14/Aug/03 with CH

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/03

lithos - 2nd - 10/Jul/03 with Andy Birtwistle

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/03 with gary wood

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/02

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/01

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2001 with Laura

Mark Riley - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Pete Oates

Hidden - 2nd β - 05/Sep/99

chris sm - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/99 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/99

Dom Whillans - 1999

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/97 with Joe

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/97 with James Tracey

jcw - Jun/97 with Martin Harris

colin milton - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/95 with eric milton

Hidden - 2nd - 08/May/95

Gordon Stainforth - 23/Jul/94 with Steve Dean

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jul/94

charlesmfrench - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/93 with Andy Wingfield

John Marsland - Lead dog - 16/May/92 with Dave Soles

AlanLittle - 2nd - 1992 with Carl Blakeley

Roget - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/91 with chris jones, JT

Pete Pozman - 2nd - 21/Oct/90 with John Byrne

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/82

babymoac - Lead - 25/Apr/82 with Jerry Codling

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/81

Tom V - 1980

Nigel Bond - Lead - 15/Jul/79 with Tony Cuddy, Martin Crosby

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/78

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!, Becks87, Hidden, hutchay, Hidden, mop449, cmars89, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, The Norris, jorge1983, Hidden, Hidden, Garson, kwaidy, Steve Waters, Mynydd, sting, Hidden, madeleine, iceaxejuggler, glennofsheff, pc1983, Hidden, Hidden, Malcolm Tucker's Sweary Aunt, Hidden, Hidden, ellie macpherson, Owen W-G, Dan Lane, wil_perry, Hidden, dashitboarder, dja, tomboyle, Hidden, Mr Wild, SecretSquirrel, beermonkey

Voting
Total votes cast 219
hard E10 of 74
E10 of 74
easy E11 of 74
hard HVS14 of 74
HVS49 of 74
easy HVS10 of 74
hard VS0 of 74
VS0 of 74
easy VS0 of 74
hard 5b0 of 73
5b1 of 73
easy 5b3 of 73
hard 5a21 of 73
5a46 of 73
easy 5a2 of 73
hard 4c0 of 73
4c0 of 73
easy 4c0 of 73
3 Stars58 of 72
2 Stars14 of 72
1 Star0 of 72
0 Stars0 of 72
Bag of .....0 of 72
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 196 (0.5%)
Lead107 of 196 (54.6%)
Followed71 of 196 (36.2%)
Toproped1 of 196 (0.5%)
Alt Leads2 of 196 (1.0%)
Unknown14 of 196 (7.1%)

'Climbed'86 of 196 (43.9%)
clean O/S83 of 196 (42.3%)
clean β5 of 196 (2.6%)
clean rpt7 of 196 (3.6%)
dogged13 of 196 (6.6%)
dnf2 of 196 (1.0%)