The rock varies in character from typically quarried on the lower tier through to more abrasive rock on the upper tier where blasting has uncovered large tracts of calcite-encrusted rock which almost feels like natural limestone. As with most quarries, extra vigilance needs to be exercised by both climber and belayer here given the blasting activity which has created potential for loose rock.
Don't swim in the bright blue toxic pool (as if you needed telling)!
Rockfax Description
Climb rightwards (higher is easier) out of the grotty groove to access the sharp arete which gives some technical laybacking. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson c2001.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 9 Aug, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: To get the full 6b+ tick, get onto the arete as soon as possible, but it is hard to avoid the urge to bridge back into the grotty groove. Falling off before the 1st clip could result in some nasty nettle-related injuries (!) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: To get the full 6b+ tick, get onto the arete as soon as possible, but it is hard to avoid the urge to bridge back into the grotty groove. Falling off before the 1st clip could result in some nasty nettle-related injuries (!) |
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roger whetton | 14 Jul, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: It seems to be usual to prolong the time spent in the grotty gully (which isn't really that unpleasant!) so giving a route of no more than 6a+. Leaving the gully lower down may well give a route of 6b+ but this doesn't seem to be done very often. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It seems to be usual to prolong the time spent in the grotty gully (which isn't really that unpleasant!) so giving a route of no more than 6a+. Leaving the gully lower down may well give a route of 6b+ but this doesn't seem to be done very often. |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Dovedale)