Derbyshire > Harpur Hill Quarry >
 
Cairn*** 7a+

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[Cairn Area, 3 kb]16m. The best route here but getting polished. Gain the wavey flake via a hard move, then climb this with powerful moves past the 3rd bolt to a jug. Swing left to better holds and up to the belay. © ROCKFAX
FA. Nadim Siddiqui, Bill Birch, Rick Gibbon 1994

Ticklists: Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Classic UK F7s.

Photo: Cairn Area © ROCKFAX
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 176 logbooks, and on 47 wishlists.

In afternoon sun, very hot, wished I wore some smeary shoes. My method definite F7a+. Gonna come back on a crisp morning and get it sent. Best climb there but a little polished.
andyman666999 - Lead dog - 07/Sep/14 with Cathryn Johnson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

DaveMo - TR dog - 03/Aug/14 with Jan

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/14

Went up route to have a look. Down as 6c in the guide!
AlexBush - TR dnf - 11/Jul/14 with Ben Johnson

mrteale - Lead RP - 20/Jun/14 with MrBlond, alook

An almost onsight - was told there was a kneebar just before starting - though that was fairly obvious just looking from the ground. A great route on perfect rock climbing an unusual feature.
stp - Lead O/S - 19/May/14 with Tom, Julie

david morse - Lead RP - 17/May/14 with KT, Andy Lole, helen

Hidden - TR - 17/May/14

Blew the onsight so spectacularily.
Kevster - Lead RP - 12/Apr/14 with Will T

ejected - 2014

Second go. Top move left to jugs felt like the crux.
tmawer - Lead RP - 05/Oct/13 with Bram

3 stars
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with duncan

Hidden - Lead β - 25/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Aug/13

Clean first go.
Stig - TR rpt - 22/Jun/13 with Emlyn

Hidden - Lead RP - 21/Jun/13

2nd go.
Stig - Lead rpt - 21/Jun/13 with Simon

Hidden - Lead RP - 16/Jun/13

Tricky moves low down which is very reachy and also tricky leaving the flake. 2nd bolt is high, took a long fall reaching past it prior to clip on 1st RP attempt.
RFWilkie - Lead RP - 26/May/13

got it 1st redpoint afternoon sun didn't help. great route.. seems very out of place at harpur
Jay-Ast - Lead RP - 06/May/13 with mick, Rosyk

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/May/13

I will be back
mrginna - Lead dog - 10/Apr/13 with Emma Campbell

Really cool climbing and first no hands knee bar rest :)
Matt Broadhurst - Lead RP - 2013 with Sian

Very very nice climb, no harder than 7a
sammo247 - Lead RP - 15/Sep/12 with chiverstom

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Sam Keyne

Nails, couldn't get to 2nd bolt.
Ian Bell - Lead dnf - 08/Sep/12 with Gareth Candlin

highrepute - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12

mark20 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12

Absolutely mega climb! Worked on it for days and finally defeated cairn clean after practise :) Definitely a 7a+ for a shorty like me!
Shortarse.Crowley - Lead RP - 11/Jul/12 with Justin Critchlow

Putting the quick draws in on the lead(first time ive done this on 7a), went ok. After completing, lowered and went straight back-up on TR unclipping, did it clean again but was pertty exhausted at the top.
leon - Lead RP - 28/Jun/12 with Jon Cooper

1st redders. Reachy move past 1st bolt, the rest is brilliant. Almost 3 stars.
Joe Costello - Lead RP - 27/Jun/12 with Ben

1st go it felt desperate (like I almost packed in and did something else desperate). 2nd go did it in two sections. 3rd & 4th goes both clean unclipping as I went. Next time on the lead.
leon - TR rpt - 25/Jun/12 with Rob Adie

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 29/May/12 with Stuart Cartwright

Quick tick in ridiculous heat. Brilliant climb, much easier if you're tall on the crux. Never 7a+. Owe Scott a belay.
mattwyles1 - Lead RP - 26/May/12 with Scott

A contender for best limstone 7a in the peak here! It is that good...
justin c - Lead rpt - 2012

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Nov/11

Got to second bolt, didn't want to commit to the next
lewiz - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Mishtu Tiwary, Vlad Vishnyakov

BicepAndrews - Lead dog - 18/Sep/11 with Ben

drysori - Lead RP - 02/Sep/11 with Jesamine

thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Becca

On a cold, wet, windy day. Nails start, nails finish. Could do each of the sections but felt miles from piecing it all together.
Owen W-G - TR dog - 27/Aug/11 with Mike

harvie - Lead β - 23/Aug/11 with Luke Harvie

Compo - Lead RP - 21/Aug/11 with Will

Hard and very sequence dependant - mucho respect to anyone that on-sights it! Ran out of time. Will def be able to lead it clean if I go back.
Thinker01 - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Bec

Fell off onsight high up. Went easy 1st RP. 3*.
nathanlee - Lead RP - 09/Aug/11 with Adam Gill

Lovely route. Hard start, pumpy at the top. 1st RP.
Adam Booth - Lead RP - 06/Aug/11 with David Rose

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Aug/11

wolverine - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Sarah Marks

Hidden - 30/Jul/11

first RP
Marti999 - Lead RP - 09/Jul/11 with Anna

Stefan Gallagher - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/11

Considering the wealth of shi*e at this venue this is really a diamond in the rough - so good I did it twice!
Duncan Disorderly - Lead RP - Jul/11 with Buttters

3rd go! Hard moves off the initial ledge, great moves higher up and they keep coming - packs a lot in for a short route
Honrei - Lead RP - 26/Jun/11

About time!
R8JimBob88 - Lead RP - 14/Jun/11 with Simon

R8JimBob88 - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/11 with Laura

Amazing, this route does not belong at harpur hill, so good! I thought it was 6c+ using that bmc guidebook, but it felt like solid 7a to me.
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 03/Jun/11 with Ruth Buckberry

John Cooper - Lead RP - 09/May/11

second time in 2 days love it! still nails though and did it with placing the draws on the lead as well this time slightly easier than the first but still pumpy and you cant really afford to miss a foot hold or mess about unless you can already do the grade fairly well.
jamesgodwin64 - Lead rpt - 05/May/11 with viki, Phil Craven

Viki - TR dnf - 04/May/11 with jamesgodwin64

after 2 TR's and on the first lead i got it one hell of a climb is all i can say! and as for it being debatable for 6c/7a defo a 7a for me.
jamesgodwin64 - Lead rpt - 03/May/11 with Phil Craven

Defeated again.... Took some big air from the last few moves. I reckon ive got the beta to get it clean next time
R8JimBob88 - Lead dog - 02/May/11 with Laura

ridiculously good
thefuturesmiles - Lead RP - May/11 with Phil Ball, Jack Bramhall

Hidden - Lead RP - 28/Apr/11

Hidden - TR dog - 28/Apr/11

R8JimBob88 - Lead dog - 25/Apr/11 with Laura

simon1965 - TR dog - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - TR - 24/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

rockjedi - Lead RP - 22/Apr/11

this is steady 7a in my opinion.
gregoritos - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/11

First redpoint after 5mins working the first clip. Booya!
Souljah - Lead - 21/Apr/11 with Greg

R8JimBob88 - Lead dog - 17/Apr/11 with Jay

An ongoing project... The 6 month gap over winter did not help. Will keep coming back until its done!
R8JimBob88 - Lead dog - 10/Apr/11 with Laura

Lex Wilkinson - Lead RP - 09/Apr/11

1st RP, amazing moves.
James Oakes - Lead RP - 27/Mar/11 with Brad Cowley, Bill Lawrence, Guy Van Greuning

lovely, did it a completely different way to franco and dylan, loved getting a knee bar.
Olli-C - 2nd - 02/Mar/11 with dylan, Franco, Sarah Rixham

phillipwright - 2011

BicepAndrews - Lead dog - 30/Oct/10 with Sam Whiting

Did all moves but very tough. A few more goes and then I'll 'av it!
R8JimBob88 - Lead dog - 18/Sep/10 with Laura

no route can be worth 3 stars in this tottering dump
phil64 - Lead RP - 18/Sep/10 with tim hunter

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Sep/10

Hidden - TR RP - 22/Aug/10

Not enough time to rest up for a good headpoint attempt. Couldn't work out the crux until notgnarly found a brilliant heel-hook crossthrough move out left; and then couldn't even do the moves lower down on top rope. Will come back when rested. Brilliant route with brilliant moves.
jelaby - TR dog - 22/Aug/10 with notgnarly

thrutch - 01/Aug/10 with Sven

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/10

Tony Little - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10 with Guy Maddox

Nick Taylor - Lead RP - 30/Jun/10 with Ben Wills

Hidden - TR dnf - 26/Jun/10

Fred Mainwaring - Lead - 26/Jun/10

i still think this is hard if under 5'7". Sussed/remembered beta for the move by 1st bolt and lead clean from there to top.
jamiev - Lead dog - 24/Jun/10 with Tom Lewis

willoates - Lead dog - 23/Jun/10 with Stu

The yearly pilgrimage,the 1 and only reason to visit harpur hill.good route
mark s - Lead - 22/Jun/10 with andi t

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/Jun/10

2nd go. Worth the full 3 stars. Hard 7a to me I think
martroberts - Lead RP - 16/Jun/10

Great route, had a few rests and have now worked out the crux so hopefully be back to get it clean soon.
Byronius Maximus - Lead dog - 05/Jun/10 with Alex Twist

failed on last move out left, don't know why as I'd done that cleanly 3 times before after falling off lower down. Glad it gets the '+' on here though ;-)
Twisty - Lead dog - 05/Jun/10 with Byron Buck

Glad to get the classic first go as my warm up route. Found the crux very easy and the easy top hard to read.
Franco Cookson - Lead O/S - 20/May/10 with chi

Chi Cheng - TR dog - 20/May/10 with Franco Cookson

Hidden - Lead β - 18/Apr/10

jacobjacob - Lead β - 18/Apr/10

jamesgodwin64 - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/10 with R8JimBob88

Must get stronger for the next attempt!
R8JimBob88 - Lead dnf - 17/Apr/10 with James

Hidden - Lead RP - Apr/10

Working
Mattu - Lead dnf - 2010

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Sep/09

What a cool route! Interesting and varied moves with some really nice subtle smearing. 2xTR goes then led clean 1st RP attempt. 23 May 09 - (Put clips up and 2xTR, before lead attempt. Fell from top crux section. 2 overlapping sections.)
Quiddity - Lead RP - 22/Aug/09 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Aug/09

brilliant climb but felt easier than 7a to me
georgel - Lead RP - 16/Aug/09 with iain

Hidden - TR dnf - 08/Aug/09

lead putting clips in but couldnt suss move to flake (quite hard if 5'6" or less). Then TR'd clean in one.
jamiev - TR RP - 25/Jul/09 with Chris the Tall

jibberingwreck - TR dog - 10/Jul/09 with mustgetstronger

mustgetstronger - TR dog - 10/Jul/09 with jibberingwreck

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jul/09

Wicked route, immaculate, hard to suss-out up top.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with mick radford

had a quick go after Al. Managed all the moves OK with only 2 rests so reckon it would go if I put some effort into it
Mick r - TR dog - 05/Jul/09 with Al Mason

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jul/09

mbutton - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Alex Adgar

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Jun/09

Clip stick action required!
jibberingwreck - Lead dog - 12/Jun/09 with mustgetstronger

mustgetstronger - Lead dog - 12/Jun/09 with jibberingwreck

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Katharine

Doesn't feel so bad once you know what to do.
Morgan Woods - Lead RP - 30/May/09 with Iain

7a not 7a+. Ace, and all over very quick and painless in the end. Put the clips in and then it went first go today.
catt - Lead RP - 30/May/09 with Morgan Woods

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/May/09

Hidden - 30/May/09

Hidden - TR dog - 23/May/09

wolverine - 25/Apr/09 with jamie Restoric

wolverine - Lead RP - 22/Apr/09 with Kate Bush

Best route at Hsrpur Hill
Dale Comley - Lead RP - Apr/09

Will Jung - TR dog - 15/Mar/09 with Matthew Bradman

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2009 with SteveOc

Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 2009 with Luke

blaza1 - Lead RP - 2009

tom.ireson - Lead dnf - 16/Nov/08

tough move up to the flake, couldn't quite sus it out
Gazleah - Lead dnf - 16/Nov/08 with tom ireson

Brian Rodgers - Lead RP - 27/Sep/08 with Neil Hillis

Climbed first go with the clips in after two previous sessions. Great route!
Stig - Lead RP - 16/Sep/08 with Goi

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Sep/08

robal - Lead RP - Sep/08

toddm - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Dan

Superb, one of my favourite sport routes.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/08 with Nick Rabb

Andrew Sloan - TR dog - 08/Jun/08 with Martin Haworth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/08

Ian Broome - TR RP - 18/May/08 with Rich Wainwright

Andrew Sloan - TR dog - 07/May/08 with Martin Haworth

jamesturnbull - Lead O/S - 2008 with aiden

robyn1 - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

kristian - Lead O/S - Sep/07

Strenuous, and good foot work required (sadly). Should come back to this.
DrGav - Lead dog - 25/Aug/07 with Adam

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Jul/07

Mark A Humphries - Lead RP - 24/Jul/07 with dean howard

So close....
Jack Symmons - Lead - Jul/07 with Chris T

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Jun/07

StuM - Lead RP - 06/Jun/07 with Chris Watson

Hidden - 25/May/07

Hidden - 2nd dog - 22/Apr/07

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/07 with Arnaud Garcon

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 2007 with simon nadin

Ramon Marin - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/06 with Glen Borrel

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Jul/06

alaan - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06 with Crispin

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/06

Boy - 2006

Jon Read - Lead RP - Jun/03 with Debs

Hidden - Lead RP - 06/Jun/02

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/00

skygodley - Lead RP - 25/Jun/00 with SarahM

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/99

Billg - Lead O/S - Jun/99 with Phil McAllistair

David Smith - 2nd - May/99

Hidden - TR - 27/Aug/94

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Voting
Total votes cast 154
hard 7b0 of 81
7b0 of 81
easy 7b0 of 81
hard 7a+1 of 81
7a+24 of 81
easy 7a+9 of 81
hard 7a43 of 81
7a4 of 81
easy 7a0 of 81
3 Stars65 of 73
2 Stars7 of 73
1 Star1 of 73
0 Stars0 of 73
Bag of .....0 of 73
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Style of ascent

Lead135 of 176 (76.7%)
Followed6 of 176 (3.4%)
Toproped25 of 176 (14.2%)
Unknown10 of 176 (5.7%)

'Climbed'23 of 176 (13.1%)
clean O/S28 of 176 (15.9%)
clean β4 of 176 (2.3%)
clean rpt8 of 176 (4.5%)
clean RP66 of 176 (37.5%)
dogged32 of 176 (18.2%)
dnf15 of 176 (8.5%)