this is NAILS. good attempt on lead by misha, who found lots of very small gear to the left and right to protect the lower section. must feel E5 6b now.
ferdia - 2nd - 05/Jul/15 with Misha
Got my arse well and truly kicked by this. Knew it was now E4 but it was still nails at the new grade! The moves aren't too bad (or at least as 'not too bad' as 6a gets) but hanging around on the jug for ages trying to fix some gear wasn't exactly refreshing (didn't want to down climb as wasn't sure I'd make it as needed a dynamic move to get the jug). The real issue though was not finding the in balance position when I got to the 'good' slot (actually polished and sloping and hard to hold in the merciless heat of the sun). Pumped out and fell off onto that micro out right, feet just touched the boulder - thanks to Ferdia for the attentive belaying! Back on, got a micro in below the good slot and promptly slumped onto it. Supplemented with a cam and a nut in the slot, pumpy to place even after a rest. Had two to three tests trying to figure out the in balance position and the moves to get established on the rib above. Eventually found the semi hidden finger jug up and left (beyond the last obvious hand hold), which enables a nice move to get stood up on the rib. A hard 5c / 6a slab move lurks above, not ideal in the sweltering heat! After that it's a nice E1ish bimble up the crack, which I followed all the way. One to do again one day, may be as part of Golden Brown. Gear beta - yellow cam to protect the lean out left to place a green BD micro cam, questionable micro at the jug (can only be placed one you're on it) but better to move right to a good number 1ish micro (currently in situ as we didn't have a nut key between us and it's the one I fell onto), then small micro in the tiny crack below the slot, 0.4 cam in the slot, medium to large nuts in the crack above. Looking at the photos here, the original route seems to have been a fair bit easier! Boulder was more or less in place but still required a dynamic move to get the jug.
Misha - Lead RP - 05/Jul/15 with Ferdia
Pleased to get this clean as I didn't realise it had fallen down. Felt more like E5 6a to me. A bit of height may have helped as I was able to down climb from the slot after getting pumped placing a dodgy micro wire below it. I had a good wire in slot down and right at this point but reckon I'd have hit the boulder if I'd come off. Next time up I was able to get decent gear in the upper slot and make the moves above. Getting established on the slab from there was still hard, I assume this is the original crux. Still a great route but a little less balanced!
JulesV - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/15 with Shauna
Didn't pre-place any runners and it is very difficult to place them and the climbing is nails certainly not E3 6a anymore. Felt burnt out so sacked it off. Would like to come back one day
Duncan Campbell - Lead dnf - 28/Jun/15 with Robbie
pre-placed first runner. E5 6a/b
markalmack - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/14 with gwen
think this needs re grading the start, straight off the boulder has lost holds and is quite hard.. once on main crack it flows nicely though.
dready - TR dog - 07/Aug/14 with shunt
Dan_Carroll - TR RP - 16/Apr/14
Has sustained more damage after storms. Start even harder. Climbed with pre clipped runner in base of crack. Would be possible to lead from the ground but it is waaay harder.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead RP - 12/Apr/14 with max
I'd say E4 6b for this at the moment. There is a boulder to step off on the left to traverse to the jug, or you can climb direct at about the same grade. 6b for first sequence, then two 6a sections IMO. The flake at the bottom may have fallen off, but even with it this must have been the hardest E2 around! Great route, shame the rock gets a bit scrittly at the top. Excellent gear all the way.
drysori - Lead - 18/May/13
drysori - Lead dnf - 15/May/13 with Viktor
E4 I would say now that the starting boulder is gone.
Pieterjan De Roo - Lead O/S - 15/May/13
Tried to top rope this today, couldn't get off the ground and then realised there has been some significant rock fall and the starting boulder has also gone. Not sure what grade it would get now but the start is now very tough and no good protection for, at a guess, 5m. Shame, the top section looks so good.
Luxulyan - TR dnf - 06/May/13
Ground up on my second attempt. Hard at the start following rockfall. Worth E4.
kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2013 with Colin
Shunted after we abbed in at high tide with no ropes!
Bristoldave - TR β - 26/Aug/12
Didn't commit to rock over onto slab after failing to get gear in diagonal crack leading up to it. Jumped off, just missed the deck, abseiled for gear and top roped the route. Glad I jumped off: the rock over move is hard.
Ed Babs - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/12 with Lee Mercer
Hidden - TR - 19/Aug/12
Spearos - TR dog - 28/Jun/12 with Master Chief
nick arding - Lead dog - 11/May/12 with Philippa Arding
Philippa Arding - 2nd - 11/May/12 with nick arding
burto - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with tom powell
Much harder than sunny corner lane.
Pete Graham - Lead - Apr/12 with Rick Graham
alice fuller - 2nd dog - 11/Jan/12
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
Hidden - 2nd - Aug/11
Hidden - TR dog - 24/Jul/11
quiffhanger - Lead - 09/Jul/11
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 19/Jun/11 with Jack Brougham
Hidden - 2nd β - 19/Jun/11
datoon - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11 with K
Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/11
tuftynick - 2nd rpt - 31/May/11 with rich cross
Hidden - Lead - 31/May/11
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 28/May/11
Adam Booth - 2nd RP - 28/May/11 with Ed Booth
Backed off crux wet and starting to rain
Pippa - Lead dnf - 28/May/11 with Jon
Managed the hard moves out left and fell in the rock over onto the slab (twice). Then managed the rest in one go. Climbed on a coaching day with Johnny Dawes.
Also worth pointing out the large flake at the start of the route is no more...
andybenham - TR dog - 05/Mar/11 with Johnny Dawes, Dave Monaghan, Gareth Hayfield
All clean apart from the rockover on to the slab. Flake was missing
Gareth - TR dog - 05/Mar/11 with Johnny Dawes
Climbed on a great coaching day with Johnny Dawes. Fell quite a few times on the bottom crux but eventually worked it out. No problems once over the rock over.
royal - 2nd dog - 05/Mar/11 with gareth, johnny dawes, andrew benham
Had attempted the lead, fell off a couple times getting round on the slab, then decided to top rope it after 1 fall got to the top, first lead attempt at an e2...
mbradberry2008 - Lead dnf - 23/Jan/11 with Alex French
flyinfrenchy - TR dnf - 23/Jan/11
Nails. Fell off crux, pulled ropes & then did it.
Rob Pitt - Lead RP - 02/Sep/10 with Nick Arding
petellis - 2nd dog - 31/Aug/10 with Alaan
alaan - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Mat
Stiff. Effort for effortless Alan.
mattyork2 - 2nd - 29/Aug/10 with Pete Ellis, Alan Royle
tommytuffa - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/10 with ollie b
Fell off first go. Back next day and done clean. Really good but tricky getting established in crack.
miastacey - Lead RP - Aug/10 with Bob Smith
Nails, hardest E2 I've been on, fell off!
colesy - Lead dog - 16/Jul/10 with Geoff Norton
Harald - Lead O/S - 13/May/10
Harald - Lead O/S - 13/May/10
Dave Turnbull, BMC - 2nd - 13/May/10 with Jan (Slovakia)
Hidden - Lead dog - 11/May/10
billb - Lead - May/10 with Graham A
Hidden - 2nd - 28/Apr/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/10
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with michael porter
Hidden - AltLd - 10/Mar/10
Seymore Butt - 2010
Hidden - 2nd dog - 18/Aug/09
John Southworth - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Alex Jakubowski
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/09
Docent - Lead β - 21/Oct/07 with wojt
not done in the best style, fell off, then abbed sorted out a better runner, pulled ropes and lead again - well it was damp
feilx - Lead RP - 30/Sep/07 with Bern
Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 03/Jul/07 with Ash
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07 with Ruth
Isn't it "grande plage"?
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07
Jus - Lead O/S - Apr/07
Rob Kennard - 2007
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/06
jimdanson - 2nd O/S - 31/May/06 with Mike Adams
Bern - 2006
I thought E4. A large boulder has gone from the start.
shark - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/05 with Ian Dring
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005
lukea - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/03 with Al
peterbeaumont - 2nd - Jul/02
Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/02 with Paul Tanton
sadams - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/01 with John Fletcher
Nigel Coe - Lead - 2001 with Malcolm Brown, Andy March
Tim Sparrow - 2001
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - Sep/00 with Gary Wickham, Matt York
Hidden - TR - 11/Aug/00
Marti999 - Lead - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
Roget - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/99 with jim
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/99 with Roy Thomas
16 or 17 June 1999
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/99 with KM
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/98
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - Aug/98 with Robin
andy_pemberton - Lead - May/98 with Brian Hannon
Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/97
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 1997 with Simon Blagdon, Nick Hancock
Gregory - Lead - 1997 with andy mcarthy
Mark Kemball - 25/Jul/94 with Matt Vigg
whispering nic - May/92 with Ali W
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/92
andy gittins - 1990
Mike Owen - 16/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen
Bruce Kerr - Lead - 14/Jul/89 with Keith Turton
Ashley Hold - 2nd - 08/Jun/88
Billg - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/87 with Keith Sharples
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/86
Hidden - Lead - 19/May/85
keefe - 23/Aug/84
steve L - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/83 with Alun Richardson
Hidden - 1977