Rockfax Description
A complex line, finding its way through some unlikely territory, but with good climbing. Start under the left-hand of a pair of black loose-looking grooves at the cliff base.
1) 6a, 21m. Climb into (6b if you don't find the hidden jug) and up the loose black groove below the right-hand end of the Castellan cave to a ledge below the main cave base.
2) 6a, 21m. Step right and pull up past a hanging block. Continue through the bulge to gain the middle of three grooves and climb this to the Laurin stance.
3) 5c, 21m. Climb delicately leftwards then up to a fine groove (peg), as for Brown Donkeys. © Rockfax
FA. Steve Allen, John Codling, Jim Lockett 1983.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| UKB Shark | 8 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: The description of Neil Fosters new route in this area (Party in the Park) courtesy of Graham Hoey is : Start as for Hot Gossip ( 6a -nice hidden jug up and right which I'd never spotted before!). After entering the groove traverse left at the obvious easy line above the roof for a couple of metres until below a thin crack. Climb this (one move of 5b/c to start) then easily up to belay below the cave of Castellan. Pitch 2 (6a/b) Hot Gossip to the roof (Laurin goes right, Hot Gossip straight up). Traverse excitedly left into the hanging scoop (Knee lock rest) good holds and gear (peg). Make crux move to move up the rib/crack to jugs and stance. Pitch 3. 5c. Move slightly left and up the wall right of the groove of Hot Gossip (thread and friend in pocket) to the roof. Good gear. Move up on good slightly sloping hold and then a longish reach to big jugs, pull out right to easy ground. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The description of Neil Fosters new route in this area (Party in the Park) courtesy of Graham Hoey is : Start as for Hot Gossip ( 6a -nice hidden jug up and right which I'd never spotted before!). After entering the groove traverse left at the obvious easy line above the roof for a couple of metres until below a thin crack. Climb this (one move of 5b/c to start) then easily up to belay below the cave of Castellan. Pitch 2 (6a/b) Hot Gossip to the roof (Laurin goes right, Hot Gossip straight up). Traverse excitedly left into the hanging scoop (Knee lock rest) good holds and gear (peg). Make crux move to move up the rib/crack to jugs and stance. Pitch 3. 5c. Move slightly left and up the wall right of the groove of Hot Gossip (thread and friend in pocket) to the roof. Good gear. Move up on good slightly sloping hold and then a longish reach to big jugs, pull out right to easy ground. |
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Knitting Needle Arête
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Upper Matlock Quarries)