Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
Lyme Cryme*** E3 5c

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[Ignoring the state of the pegs..., 3 kb]46m, 2 pitches. A superb route which for many years had a reputation for poor gear, however, protection on the whole is good and the old, bold section can be protected by slight diversion to the right. The first pitch is good value. 1) 5c, 23m. Climb the groove past an assortment of pegs, and good wires, until the crack runs out (old bolts up and left). Step right to ledges and move up to hidden slots where good protection is available (large-ish cams). Either drop back down, step left and back up, or simply move left from the gear to gain the hanging groove (peg). Clip the extended peg above and make a hard pull into a hanging groove. Pull out left to a stance and belay on wires (on Delicatessen). 2) 5b, 23m. Another fine pitch. Follow the cracks above and continue through the crux of pitch 2 of Debauchery. Finish direct up a short groove. © ROCKFAX
FA. Steve Bancroft, Adey Hubbard 1975. The first free-climbing bolt on Derbyshire limestone placed by my old Chemistry teacher.

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50.

Photo: Ignoring the state of the pegs... © Joughton
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 98 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Led first pitch as Wil backed. Move in top groove harder than I remeber
shark - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Wil Treasure

Backed off first pitch as I got a bit spooked by the bolt, great top pitch.
Wil Treasure - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with simon lee

Was surprised how great this climb was, the first pitch had some quality climbing on it. Felt the second pitch deserves 5c too though. Tough E3.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/12

Only did the 1st pitch as it started to rain. Had to about for gear. My 50m ropes did not reach the ground so had to climb back up the ropes.
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Rachel Stater

Took a fall at the crux as I was pumped. Gutted. I found it was harder for (very) shorties, though the grade doesn't change. Fantastic route!
masa-alpin - Lead dog - 05/Aug/12 with Lee P

Led P2, Badly..
bigdrew - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with Ian Milward

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/12

Pete Graham - 2nd - 10/Jun/12 with Howard Lawledge

in one
Howard Lawledge - Lead - Jun/12 with Pete Graham

davewsargent - 2nd dog - 23/May/12 with paul

One slip near the top
david morse - 2nd dog - 12/May/12 with markalmack

linked into 1 long pitch. went a bit off route at the top...
markalmack - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Dave morse

P1. Pumpy and committing rather than overly bold. Ace route.
liam - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12 with Mark R

Led P2. Good varied climbing all the way
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12

First pitch only to get to the start of Delicatessen
bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Ian Milward

Led 1st pitch
Dave Bond - AltLd - 29/Jun/11 with Simon Wren

Rested on the tat & cam before pulling into the groove. Kate cruised top pitch.
metal arms - AltLd dog - 12/Sep/10

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with SimonW

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 16/Jun/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Oct/09

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Dan Wicks

done in one pitch
feilx - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Andy L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/09

Led first pitch. Hard for E3 on seriously dubious fixed gear and hard, pumpy climbing. (also seconded original route and highlight)
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with tony M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/09

Led Pitch 2
MONKEY78 - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with adam ellwood

Lead the top pitch, amazing climbing!
willackers - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Tom Mills

alaan - AltLd - 10/May/08 with Aly

Brown - AltLd O/S - 03/May/08 with Henry

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/07

craig d - Lead - Apr/07 with Mark Bridgman-Smith

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/May/06

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

first pitch only finishing up Nightmare
shark - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/05 with Mike Garton

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 28/May/05 with Eric Hildrew

Dave Bond - AltLd - 24/Sep/03 with Simon Wren

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - May/01

tuftynick - 2001

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - May/00

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

EagerAndy - 2000

sadams - AltLd - 22/Mar/98 with Pete Bukowski

Billg - Lead rpt - 1998 with Shaun James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/97

Hidden - Lead rpt - 1997

sadams - AltLd - 03/Aug/96 with Hugh Cottom

ste_d - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/96 with mik

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/96 with Steven Delderfield

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Sep/95 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/95 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/94

OMSKB - AltLd - 1994 with Richard Winfield

rob.grafton - Lead - 09/May/93 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/92 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/92

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 03/May/92 with Paul Tanton

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/91

keefe - 10/Aug/91

whispering nic - 2nd β - 1991 with Graham Iles

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - 1990 with Dave Ramsey

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/89

Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Apr/89

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989

Crux wet - backed off.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dnf - 23/Oct/88 with Frank Wilkinson

William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily

Lowered from c.40 ft up the first pitch. Far too hard for me = desperate!
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd dnf - 25/Jun/88 with Al Churcher

charlesmfrench - Lead RP - 08/May/88 with Ian Milne

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/87

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/87

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 1987 with John Adams

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Jul/86

Hidden - AltLd - 1986

sadams - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/85 with Kevin Edwards

shark - Lead - 05/Apr/85 with Howard

andy gittins - 1985

shark - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/84 with Phill Dickens

neilh - 2nd - 07/Aug/84 with simon webster

Mike Owen - 28/Mar/84 with Simon King

jonathan shepherd - Lead O/S - Aug/83

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

Gezzer - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Andy Towne

Mark Kemball - 07/Jun/81 with John Jefferies

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981 with Derek Hersey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1981

Chris Craggs - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Kafoozalem, Si dH, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, derekb, greenclimb, drcorbasisgod, Hidden, Hidden, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 95
hard E40 of 23
E40 of 23
easy E41 of 23
hard E320 of 23
E32 of 23
easy E30 of 23
hard E20 of 23
E20 of 23
easy E20 of 23
hard 6a0 of 39
6a0 of 39
easy 6a1 of 39
hard 5c23 of 39
5c15 of 39
easy 5c0 of 39
hard 5b0 of 39
5b0 of 39
easy 5b0 of 39
3 Stars32 of 33
2 Stars1 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Lead37 of 98 (37.8%)
Followed12 of 98 (12.2%)
Alt Leads34 of 98 (34.7%)
Unknown15 of 98 (15.3%)

'Climbed'49 of 98 (50.0%)
clean O/S30 of 98 (30.6%)
clean β1 of 98 (1.0%)
clean rpt5 of 98 (5.1%)
clean RP2 of 98 (2.0%)
dogged7 of 98 (7.1%)
dnf4 of 98 (4.1%)