Lyme Cryme*** E3 5c
[Ignoring the state of the pegs..., 3 kb]46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route which for many years had a reputation for poor gear, however, protection on the whole is good and the old, bold section can be protected by slight diversion to the right. The first pitch is good value.
1) 5c, 23m. Climb the groove past an assortment of pegs, and good wires, until the crack runs out (old bolts up and left). Step right to ledges and move up to hidden slots where good protection is available (large-ish cams). Either drop back down, step left and back up, or simply move left from the gear to gain the hanging groove (peg). Clip the extended peg above and make a hard pull into a hanging groove. Pull out left to a stance and belay on wires (on Delicatessen).
2) 5b, 23m. Another fine pitch. Follow the cracks above and continue through the crux of pitch 2 of Debauchery. Finish direct up a short groove. © ROCKFAX

FA. Steve Bancroft, Adey Hubbard 1975. The first free-climbing bolt on Derbyshire limestone placed by my old Chemistry teacher.

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: Ignoring the state of the pegs... © Joughton
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 140 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Pitch 2
Brannock - AltLd rpt - 20/Sep/15

Brilliant. Lead p1 quite a lot of kit low down but a bit of a tricky runout to get to the cam slots before pulling into the groove - would be VERY bold if you don't go up and put these in. Though you'd be less pumped and you would only fall off up there if you were pumped. Mega classic
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/15 with Brannock

miastacey - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/15 with Toby Dunn

Jesus. This felt bloody desperate. Led in one pitch due to reasons of time/Sam not fancying seconding it, maybe this is why. That said, the top half is fine, but the bottom half felt hard as nails, and the crucial peg is pretty abysmal now. Cam protection is ok but not sure I totally trusted it. Fantastic climbing though, and really chuffed to get it done. Felt like the hardest route I've climbed.
spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Sam Nixon-Eckersall

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/15

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/15 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/15

rocksol - 2015

Six months almost to the day since doing it for the first time. Still hard, committing and brilliant! This time just led the first pitch so got to enjoy the second on the blunt end.
Misha - AltLd - 28/Sep/14 with Brannock

Backed off first pitch, pretty hard, led second, not to easy!
Brannock - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14

Lovely route and far better protected than the guidebook description suggests.
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Ben Ochner

superb sustained pitch, continuously hard with no let up on pitch 1!
phil64 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with matt dean

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14 with gwen lancashire

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

GrantB - 2nd - 17/May/14 with ally smith

Led 1
Apharri - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/14 with Jim Gayler

Climbed as a single pitch
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/14 with Ben Silvestre

Mega! Hard in a single push as the second trad route of the season but life needs to be challenging! Lots of 5c with some 5b followed by an easy section and then lots of 5b with some 5a, giving a hard E3 pitch overall. The initial groove is technical and sustained at 5b/c. The old bolts are just coat hangers but there is a good BD cam 0.75 below them, then a good cam 2 in the hidden break and finally a good cam 1 at the crux (as well as tat extended from an ancient peg - wouldn't trust it), so good gear even if it feels a bit bold. The crux requires commitment and is pretty hard. Thankfully easier above but done in a single push you start to feel it higher up even though it's only 5b. Interest is maintained all the way. I started at 6pm after James spent a while doing Original Route and topped out at 7.15pm. James still had daylight for the hard section but it started getting dusky as he emerged above the bulge and the last third was distinctly mirky for him! He topped out at 8.25pm, a great effort even if he had a fair few rests. Abbed off in the dark - got the most out of the day there!
Misha - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with James

harvie - Lead O/S - 2014

mike mo - 2014

morganator - 2nd rpt - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, Sophie Whyte

soph - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13 with Neil McAdie, jon morgan

in one pitch -
piken - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/13

Slumped onto gear at crux...
Simon Davis - Lead dog - 18/Aug/13 with Tim P

Led first pitch. Fell off the crux twice then got it third go. Found it pretty hard and below that very bold. The cams round to the right are good but by the time you get to them there are only two easy moves left to get to the gear at the crux - its still scary up to there so not sure the latest peak rockfax description is really true!!
Si dH - AltLd dog - 15/Jun/13 with Andy

Hidden - 2013

Led first pitch as Wil backed. Move in top groove harder than I remeber
shark - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Wil Treasure

Backed off first pitch as I got a bit spooked by the bolt, great top pitch.
drysori - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with simon lee

Was surprised how great this climb was, the first pitch had some quality climbing on it. Felt the second pitch deserves 5c too though. Tough E3.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/12

Only did the 1st pitch as it started to rain. Had to about for gear. My 50m ropes did not reach the ground so had to climb back up the ropes.
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Rachel Stater

Took a fall at the crux as I was pumped. Gutted. I found it was harder for (very) shorties, though the grade doesn't change. Fantastic route!
masa-alpin - Lead dog - 05/Aug/12 with Lee P

Led P2, Badly..
bigdrew - AltLd - 22/Jul/12 with Ian Milward

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/12

Pete Graham - 2nd - 10/Jun/12 with Howard Lawledge

in one
Howard Lawledge - Lead - Jun/12 with Pete Graham

davewsargent - 2nd dog - 23/May/12 with paul

One slip near the top
david morse - 2nd dog - 12/May/12 with markalmack

linked into 1 long pitch. went a bit off route at the top...
markalmack - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Dave morse

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12

Led P2. Good varied climbing all the way
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12

First pitch only to get to the start of Delicatessen
bigdrew - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Ian Milward

Led 1st pitch
Dave Bond - AltLd - 29/Jun/11 with Simon Wren

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/11

Rested on the tat & cam before pulling into the groove. Kate cruised top pitch.
metal arms - AltLd dog - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/10

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with SimonW

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 16/Jun/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Oct/09

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Dan Wicks

done in one pitch
feilx - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Andy L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/09

Led first pitch. Hard for E3 on seriously dubious fixed gear and hard, pumpy climbing. (also seconded original route and highlight)
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/09 with tony M

Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Dave Evans

Led Pitch 2
DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with adam ellwood

Lead the top pitch, amazing climbing!
willackers - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Tom Mills

alaan - AltLd - 10/May/08 with Aly

Brown - AltLd O/S - 03/May/08 with Henry

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Apr/07

craig d - Lead - Apr/07 with Mark Bridgman-Smith

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead dnf - 16/May/06

Boy - 2006

Bern - 2006

first pitch only finishing up Nightmare
shark - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/05 with Mike Garton

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd rpt - 28/May/05 with Eric Hildrew

Blew clean lead - pulled into hanging groove but then feeling precarious grabbed in-situ sling; wish I hadn't!
nickdonohue - Lead - 2004 with Andy Neath

Dave Bond - AltLd - 24/Sep/03 with Simon Wren

Finished in the dark
DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - Jul/03 with Martin Peters

nickdonohue - Lead dnf - 2003 with Mike Thorpe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/02

Hidden - AltLd - May/01

tuftynick - 2001

tuftynick - Lead - 2001

Hidden - May/00

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Apr/00

Steve Bell - 2000

Andy Edgar - 2000

GeoffG - AltLd - 02/Apr/99

Pitch 1
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/98 with Neil McCallum

sadams - AltLd - 22/Mar/98 with Pete Bukowski

Billg - Lead rpt - 1998 with Shaun James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/97

Hidden - Lead - 14/May/97

Hidden - Lead rpt - 1997

sadams - AltLd - 03/Aug/96 with Hugh Cottom

ste_d - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/96 with mik

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/96 with Steven Delderfield

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 20/Sep/95 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/95 with Dad

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/95

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/94

OMSKB - AltLd - 1994 with Richard Winfield

Robmwatt - 1994

rob.grafton - Lead - 09/May/93 with Bruce

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/92 with jon

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 20/Jun/92 with George MacIntyre

Hidden - Lead - 17/May/92

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 03/May/92 with Paul Tanton

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/91

keefe - 10/Aug/91

whispering nic - 2nd β - 1991 with Graham Iles

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - 1990 with Dave Ramsey

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/89

Hidden - AltLd dog - 13/Apr/89

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1989

Crux wet - backed off.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dnf - 23/Oct/88 with Frank Wilkinson

William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily

Lowered from c.40 ft up the first pitch. Far too hard for me = desperate!
Gordon Stainforth - 2nd dnf - 25/Jun/88 with Al Churcher

charlesmfrench - Lead RP - 08/May/88 with Ian Milne

andybirtwistle - 2nd - 19/Sep/87 with Ian Kyle

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/87

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/87

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 20/Apr/87 with Doré Green

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - 1987 with John Adams

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Jul/86

Hidden - AltLd - 1986

Derek Furze - 1986

sadams - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/85 with Kevin Edwards

Hidden - Lead - 06/Apr/85

shark - Lead - 05/Apr/85 with Howard

andy gittins - 1985

shark - Lead dnf - 21/Oct/84 with Phill Dickens

neilh - 2nd - 07/Aug/84 with simon webster

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/84 with Simon King

jonathan shepherd - Lead O/S - Aug/83

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

Gezzer - AltLd O/S - 1983 with Andy Towne

Mark Kemball - 07/Jun/81 with John Jefferies

Ghastly Rubberfeet - 2nd - 1981 with Derek Hersey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1981

Chris Craggs - 1980

alt leads with charlie French, another occasion with cotton wall eric and larry parks.Also with my son Graeme Smith
uphillnow - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

paul__in_sheffield - Lead - 1980

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Total votes cast 126
hard E40 of 34
E40 of 34
easy E42 of 34
hard E326 of 34
E36 of 34
easy E30 of 34
hard E20 of 34
E20 of 34
easy E20 of 34
hard 6a0 of 50
6a0 of 50
easy 6a1 of 50
hard 5c30 of 50
5c19 of 50
easy 5c0 of 50
hard 5b0 of 50
5b0 of 50
easy 5b0 of 50
3 Stars40 of 42
2 Stars2 of 42
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP