Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
Tales of Yankee Power*** E5 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Original Route Direct Start
 
Flaky Wall >>
[1st Ascent, 2 kb]35m. The perfect introduction to the E5 grade and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route. © ROCKFAX
FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution.

Photo: 1st Ascent © rocksol
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 59 logbooks, and on 18 wishlists.

dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

Ready to lead when rain arrived yesterday. Harder and scarier than Supersonic!!
nathanlee - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with Dom Lee

Brilliant airy run out to the thread and still a move or two to pull at the top, felt o/s though can't really claim as did Original route first..
Rick hard Rock - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with steve_yo

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/14 with nathan lee

harvie - Lead O/S - 2014

harvie - Lead O/S - 2014

Thought I'd give this a go as it's ultimately safe and it's easy to escape up Original Route. Had a look on the ab off Original Route earlier in the day and it seemed ok... Got as far as placing a nut in the last section of the discontinuous crack and promptly fell off going for the undercut. On subsequent goes found a decent rest in the crack with feet jammed in and worked out a way of getting up a little above the undercut but the next few moves to the jug looked nails. Took three more flyers and gave up as was getting tired and it was getting late and escaped up Original Route. Had a go at the sequence on the ab and it was still desperate but it seems there is an easier way out right to the thread. Worth coming back to...
Misha - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/13 with Ed

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/13

Stupidly went off route first time. Tried to go too direct instead of heading rightwards towards thread
Apharri - Lead RP - 14/Aug/13 with Jim Gayler

Climbed with a visiting Yank! Had a look at the holds on the ab from Original Route. It didn't feel very independent from OR until the last minute when you step out. Overgripped a lot and made a leap for the jug. Found the top bit hard as well.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 17/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards

w.pettet-smith - 2nd - 09/Jun/13 with oli

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/13

mwatson - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

Disgusted with myself, grabbed the thread instead of going for the jug! Really annoyed as I'd been saving this for a while but my head just wasn't in it - after just a little run out I was climbing terribly, shaky legs ect. Surprised to find this harder than Supersonic, less sustained but with harder, more committing moves.
Joughton - Lead dog - 22/May/13

Howard Lawledge - Lead - Jul/12 with Mark Rooms

Ally Smith - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Dan Arkle

steve_yo - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with sam ring

1 fall, pulled ropes and led it clean.
tuftynick - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with ben winston

alaan - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09

Cassidy - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Will, Duboust

5 stars, brilliant!
willackers - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Tom Mills

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08

morganator - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/08 with Graham Cooper

Simply superb! Took a whipper going for the jug, pulled the ropes and went for it again, this time fluffing the top move - went back two days later and lead it clean.
alaan - Lead - 05/May/08 with Matt

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/07

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with barross, alex b

First total ground-up onsight E5! fairly easy to the thread and/or jug. Found the move past the break really hard, so many holds. Very safe i thought, didnt feel any run-outage. Glad to have ticked it x
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Thomas Martin

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

Dave Bond - Lead β - 29/Sep/05 with Tim Banton

Hidden - Sep/05

Soft touch. F6b+.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 28/May/05 with Eric Hildrew

whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/01 with Niall

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/01 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/99

sadams - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/98 with Pete Bukowski

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/96 with baccy

Desperate and a hard lead. Hard to clip the gear, have to be on top form for this.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 1994 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/93

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

E5 for fluttery moves to thread. Lovely wall climbing.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

Year a guess
shark - Lead - 1992

Steve Walker - Lead - 1992 with stuart muir

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/90

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 1990

chickened out on the onsite and grabbed the sling when trying to clipfrom below. Was gutted to find a jug next to it ! Pulled the ropes and led clean
Billg - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily

keefe - 02/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams

shark - Lead dnf - 11/May/86 with Chris

Derek Furze - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/85

Mike Owen - 28/Mar/84 with Simon King

Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes

Second on first ascent
Al Evans - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ashtond6, Liam Ingram, richiebongo, Hidden, Hidden, aretherenoneleft, stevebarratt, Hidden, Hidden, ian caton, barni, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Matt Fry, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 75
hard E60 of 26
E60 of 26
easy E60 of 26
hard E54 of 26
E516 of 26
easy E53 of 26
hard E43 of 26
E40 of 26
easy E40 of 26
hard 6b0 of 26
6b0 of 26
easy 6b2 of 26
hard 6a3 of 26
6a20 of 26
easy 6a1 of 26
hard 5c0 of 26
5c0 of 26
easy 5c0 of 26
3 Stars15 of 23
2 Stars8 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

Lead45 of 59 (76.3%)
Followed5 of 59 (8.5%)
Unknown9 of 59 (15.3%)

'Climbed'20 of 59 (33.9%)
clean O/S25 of 59 (42.4%)
clean β7 of 59 (11.9%)
clean rpt3 of 59 (5.1%)
clean RP1 of 59 (1.7%)
dogged1 of 59 (1.7%)
dnf2 of 59 (3.4%)