Tales of Yankee Power*** E5 6a
[1st Ascent, 2 kb]35m.

Rockfax Description
The perfect introduction to the E5 grade and on the perfect cliff. Spicy, but safe with a bit of Buoux thrown in. Climb direct from the Original Route start to rejoin the route in its main groove. Climb up and place some wires then follow the thin crack in the arete until it runs out. Climb coolly to the jug (or thread hold?) and regain your composure. Move up the thin wall above (hidden peg on the left) with one final hard move to pass the break and gain the belay on Original Route. © ROCKFAX

FA. Phil Burke, Nadim Siddiqui, Al Evans 1979

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.

Photo: 1st Ascent © rocksol
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This climb is in 73 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.
James Oswald - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/15 with Malcolm Scott

With 1 rest before the upper crux because I committed to doing it the wrong way... Ace route, though the little pockets are hard to use.
James Oswald - 2nd - 15/Aug/15 with Malcolm Scott

Just fantastic
malx - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/15

rocksol - 2015

Got it! Tried it about a year ago and took several flyers but was going the wrong (aka hard) way direct to the jug. This time aimed for the thread, up and right from the undercut above the crucial nut. Still hard but the pockets are just about good enough. Clipping the thread from below is hard, better to move up and clip it with a hand in the line of pockets at the thread as there's a decent foothold so it's a semi-resting position. Move left to the jug and breathe, really good rest and same when clipping the hidden peg above. A short pocketed slab tries to lull you into complacency before the final steepening with a tricky balancy 6a move, felt very on/off as only had one foot on - stayed on! A few 5b/c pulls and it's in the bag! Excellent climbing and really pleased to do it reasonably quickly instead of hanging around for ages as usual - on the hard bits it's vicious enough to impel you to move on, just have to read it right as reversing would be hard.
Misha - Lead - 28/Sep/14 with Brannock

Brannock - 2nd - 28/Sep/14

Took ages to commit going for thread and found the the top hard. Amazing route.
LRob - Lead β - 04/Sep/14

On mark's gear. Not sure I'd have pressed on to the sling without a quickdraw hanging on it!
david morse - Lead β - 31/Aug/14 with markalmack

Placed a couple of runners on the bulge on the ab. Knocks a grade off like this
markalmack - Lead RP - 31/Aug/14 with Dave morse

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

Amazing, as most People do had a look on ab first then didn't climb it at all like I thought, felt Onsight! So good
jamesturnbull - Lead - 19/Aug/14 with rich howells

dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

Ready to lead when rain arrived yesterday. Harder and scarier than Supersonic!!
nathanlee - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with Dom Lee

Brilliant airy run out to the thread and still a move or two to pull at the top, felt o/s though can't really claim as did Original route first..
Ricky Rocks - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with steve_yo

dominic lee - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/14 with nathan lee

harvie - Lead O/S - 2014

harvie - Lead O/S - 2014

Thought I'd give this a go as it's ultimately safe and it's easy to escape up Original Route. Had a look on the ab off Original Route earlier in the day and it seemed ok... Got as far as placing a nut in the last section of the discontinuous crack and promptly fell off going for the undercut. On subsequent goes found a decent rest in the crack with feet jammed in and worked out a way of getting up a little above the undercut but the next few moves to the jug looked nails. Took three more flyers and gave up as was getting tired and it was getting late and escaped up Original Route. Had a go at the sequence on the ab and it was still desperate but it seems there is an easier way out right to the thread. Worth coming back to...
Misha - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/13 with Ed

Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/13

Stupidly went off route first time. Tried to go too direct instead of heading rightwards towards thread
Apharri - Lead RP - 14/Aug/13 with Jim Gayler

Climbed with a visiting Yank! Had a look at the holds on the ab from Original Route. It didn't feel very independent from OR until the last minute when you step out. Overgripped a lot and made a leap for the jug. Found the top bit hard as well.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 17/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards

w.pettet-smith - 2nd - 09/Jun/13 with oli

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/13

mwatson - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

Disgusted with myself, grabbed the thread instead of going for the jug! Really annoyed as I'd been saving this for a while but my head just wasn't in it - after just a little run out I was climbing terribly, shaky legs ect. Surprised to find this harder than Supersonic, less sustained but with harder, more committing moves.
Joughton - Lead dog - 22/May/13

Howard Lawledge - Lead - Jul/12 with Mark Rooms

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12

steve_yo - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with sam ring

1 fall, pulled ropes and led it clean.
tuftynick - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with ben winston

alaan - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09

Cassidy - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Will, Duboust

5 stars, brilliant!
willackers - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Tom Mills

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08

Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Dave Evans

morganator - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/08 with Graham Cooper

Simply superb! Took a whipper going for the jug, pulled the ropes and went for it again, this time fluffing the top move - went back two days later and lead it clean.
alaan - Lead - 05/May/08 with Matt

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/07

Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with barross, alex b

First total ground-up onsight E5! fairly easy to the thread and/or jug. Found the move past the break really hard, so many holds. Very safe i thought, didnt feel any run-outage. Glad to have ticked it x
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Thomas Martin

Hidden - 2007

Boy - 2006

Dave Bond - Lead β - 29/Sep/05 with Tim Banton

Hidden - Sep/05

Soft touch. F6b+.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 28/May/05 with Eric Hildrew

whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/01 with Niall

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/01 with Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/99

sadams - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/98 with Pete Bukowski

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/96 with baccy

Desperate and a hard lead. Hard to clip the gear, have to be on top form for this.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 1994 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/93

mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

E5 for fluttery moves to thread. Lovely wall climbing.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton

Year a guess
shark - Lead - 1992

Steve Walker - Lead - 1992 with stuart muir

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/90

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - 1990

chickened out on the onsite and grabbed the sling when trying to clipfrom below. Was gutted to find a jug next to it ! Pulled the ropes and led clean
Billg - Lead - 1990

Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 26/Jun/88 with Tim Raffle

keefe - 02/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams

shark - Lead dnf - 11/May/86 with Chris

Derek Furze - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/85

Mike Owen - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/85 with Jim Hewson

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/84 with Simon King

Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes

paul__in_sheffield - Lead - 1980

Second on first ascent
Al Evans - 1976

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
quiffhanger, philhilo, deacondeacon, phil64, pearson9596, theomoore, ashtond6, Liam Ingram, richiebongo, aretherenoneleft, stevebarratt, ian caton, barni, Matt Fry

Total votes cast 80
hard E60 of 28
E60 of 28
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