Got it! Tried it about a year ago and took several flyers but was going the wrong (aka hard) way direct to the jug. This time aimed for the thread, up and right from the undercut above the crucial nut. Still hard but the pockets are just about good enough. Clipping the thread from below is hard, better to move up and clip it with a hand in the line of pockets at the thread as there's a decent foothold so it's a semi-resting position. Move left to the jug and breathe, really good rest and same when clipping the hidden peg above. A short pocketed slab tries to lull you into complacency before the final steepening with a tricky balancy 6a move, felt very on/off as only had one foot on - stayed on! A few 5b/c pulls and it's in the bag! Excellent climbing and really pleased to do it reasonably quickly instead of hanging around for ages as usual - on the hard bits it's vicious enough to impel you to move on, just have to read it right as reversing would be hard.
Misha - Lead - 28/Sep/14 with Brannock
Brannock - 2nd - 28/Sep/14
Took ages to commit going for thread and found the the top hard. Amazing route.
LRob - Lead β - 04/Sep/14
On mark's gear. Not sure I'd have pressed on to the sling without a quickdraw hanging on it!
david morse - Lead β - 31/Aug/14 with markalmack
Placed a couple of runners on the bulge on the ab. Knocks a grade off like this
markalmack - Lead RP - 31/Aug/14 with Dave morse
Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14
Amazing, as most People do had a look on ab first then didn't climb it at all like I thought, felt Onsight! So good
jamesturnbull - Lead - 19/Aug/14 with rich howells
dswansonlow - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14
Ready to lead when rain arrived yesterday. Harder and scarier than Supersonic!!
nathanlee - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with Dom Lee
Brilliant airy run out to the thread and still a move or two to pull at the top, felt o/s though can't really claim as did Original route first..
Ricky Rocks - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with steve_yo
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/14 with nathan lee
harvie - Lead O/S - 2014
harvie - Lead O/S - 2014
Thought I'd give this a go as it's ultimately safe and it's easy to escape up Original Route. Had a look on the ab off Original Route earlier in the day and it seemed ok... Got as far as placing a nut in the last section of the discontinuous crack and promptly fell off going for the undercut. On subsequent goes found a decent rest in the crack with feet jammed in and worked out a way of getting up a little above the undercut but the next few moves to the jug looked nails. Took three more flyers and gave up as was getting tired and it was getting late and escaped up Original Route. Had a go at the sequence on the ab and it was still desperate but it seems there is an easier way out right to the thread. Worth coming back to...
Misha - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/13 with Ed
Hidden - Lead - 01/Sep/13
Stupidly went off route first time. Tried to go too direct instead of heading rightwards towards thread
Apharri - Lead RP - 14/Aug/13 with Jim Gayler
Climbed with a visiting Yank! Had a look at the holds on the ab from Original Route. It didn't feel very independent from OR until the last minute when you step out. Overgripped a lot and made a leap for the jug. Found the top bit hard as well.
Daniel Heath - Lead β - 17/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards
w.pettet-smith - 2nd - 09/Jun/13 with oli
Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/13
mwatson - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13
Disgusted with myself, grabbed the thread instead of going for the jug! Really annoyed as I'd been saving this for a while but my head just wasn't in it - after just a little run out I was climbing terribly, shaky legs ect. Surprised to find this harder than Supersonic, less sustained but with harder, more committing moves.
Joughton - Lead dog - 22/May/13
Howard Lawledge - Lead - Jul/12 with Mark Rooms
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12
steve_yo - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with sam ring
1 fall, pulled ropes and led it clean.
tuftynick - Lead - 14/Jun/11 with ben winston
alaan - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/10
Seymore Butt - 2010
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/09
Cassidy - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Will, Duboust
5 stars, brilliant!
willackers - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Tom Mills
Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/08
Adam Ellwood - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Dave Evans
morganator - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/08 with Graham Cooper
Simply superb! Took a whipper going for the jug, pulled the ropes and went for it again, this time fluffing the top move - went back two days later and lead it clean.
alaan - Lead - 05/May/08 with Matt
Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/07
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/07 with barross, alex b
First total ground-up onsight E5! fairly easy to the thread and/or jug. Found the move past the break really hard, so many holds. Very safe i thought, didnt feel any run-outage. Glad to have ticked it x
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07 with Thomas Martin
Hidden - 2007
Boy - 2006
Dave Bond - Lead β - 29/Sep/05 with Tim Banton
Hidden - Sep/05
Soft touch. F6b+.
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 28/May/05 with Eric Hildrew
whispering nic - 2nd - Aug/01 with Niall
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - May/01 with Dad
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/99
sadams - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/98 with Pete Bukowski
Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/96 with baccy
Desperate and a hard lead. Hard to clip the gear, have to be on top form for this.
Ian Jones - Lead β - 1994 with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/93
mattnuttall - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
E5 for fluttery moves to thread. Lovely wall climbing.
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/92 with Paul Tanton
Year a guess
shark - Lead - 1992
Steve Walker - Lead - 1992 with stuart muir
Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/90
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1990
Hidden - 1990
chickened out on the onsite and grabbed the sling when trying to clipfrom below. Was gutted to find a jug next to it ! Pulled the ropes and led clean
Billg - Lead - 1990
Chris Wright - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/88
William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily
AlexRenshaw - Lead - 26/Jun/88 with Tim Raffle
keefe - 02/Aug/86 with Johnny Adams
shark - Lead dnf - 11/May/86 with Chris
Derek Furze - 1986
Hidden - Lead - 26/May/85
Hidden - 28/Mar/84
Chris Craggs - 2nd - 1980 with Graham Parkes
Second on first ascent
Al Evans - 1976