Another fine route, tracing the easiest line up the shield. Immaculate rock, good protection, a hands-off rest and some brilliant technical sequences. Start lower than Original Route as for Supersonic (this helps keep the wires on the crux in). Move up left and follow the crack as for Tales until the curving overlap on the right can be gained. Pull out right from this to a rest then climb direct up a peg-scarred crack (polished) to a good hold. Wander more easily rightwards up the dinner-plate flake and finish direct from its end. © Rockfax
FA. Doug Scott, Clive Davies 1961. The upper flake was much more friable making their ascent terrifying. The route was jokingly renamed every time someone removed one of the aid points. Hook-Crook Wall (4 pts) and Bulldog Wall (1 rest) are both previous n
Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, The Top 5 E4's in the UK?, Ultimate E4 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Almost fell off the traverse, felt as hard as Supersonic.
Pete W, Dan
|James Oswald||15/Aug||Lead dog||
Hard, fell off 3 times. Once trying to reverse back along the traverse and again in the groove. The traverse is scary, hard moves when you are quite a long way to the left and above your gear..
|ian d f||27/Jun||Lead O/S||
A fine route. Led with in-situ gear through most of the hard stuff after Mike lowered off. This no doubt helped!
|Luke Dawson||10/Jun||Lead O/S||
not a good hangover cure
|Albert Exley||10/Jun||2nd dog|
Great. Polished in the groove - took a line of flakes slightly right of the crack and joined it at the top, making a bold and difficult move to clip the peg!
Found the traverse desperate. Harder than I remember
|Hannes B||19/Sep/14||Lead dog||
great route - 3 falls
|Ed morris||17/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
Superb. Start to finish.
|Ricky Rocks||13/Apr/14||2nd O/S|
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||01/Apr/14||2nd||
|Adam Booth||01/Aug/13||Lead dnf||
Fell off trying to pull through overlap. Think I tried going too high.
Shaky wall, need to do more of this.
|Ed Booth||25/May/13||2nd O/S||
Ed Hamer, Sam Hamer
hard crux, rest pretty friendly!
Really cool move going for the jug after the peg, (easy to catch if you're falling leftwards). Traverse is much easier if you go right and down an extra move to the good footholds below the big hold rather than try and span.
|david morse||12/May/12||2nd dog||
getting shut down again...
First E4! Thought the first traverse along the undercut break was nails, but the rest above was most welcome. The moves on the peg scars felt easier than the traverse, though they are getting a bit polished! Thought the final run out above the flake was a bit scary but that just added to the route.
|Dave Bond||03/Sep/11||Lead rpt||
|Brian Rodgers||03/Sep/11||2nd rpt|
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||04/Jun/11||Lead dog||
Tried to lead it (on mike's gear) in darkening light and pumped out after getting to the peg below the jug clean...a rest let me see a foothold which made the move easy. Decided to strip gear, climb back down to peg and ab off. Should go next time!
|dan gibson||26/May/10||Lead RP||
|bigie bob||21/Apr/10||Lead O/S|
|Rich Kirby||18/Oct/09||2nd rpt|
Tried previous year, could not get across to the overlap.Still very hard. Probably good as the rest is even harder. Lots of 6a with the occasional 5c. Shattered at the end.
Beta = did Reproduction and Supersonic first
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||23/May/09||Lead O/S||
Had seconded it before. Still well chuffed. Foot slipped on crux and nearly came off.
Gutted I didn't lead it, quality!
Had seconded before. Harder on the lead!
Lobbed on a jammed wire by the first hard bit due to cowardice, and abbed off it cunningly a few times. Worked the move out for next time though.
Fell of the undercut moves first go, it was the first and only route of the day so my excuse is I wasn't warmed up! Lowered off and did it ground-up next go. Amazing climb, a contender for the best trad route I've ever done.
|Somerset swede basher||19/May/08||Lead O/S||
Awesome climb, found the traverse in from original route harder than whats supposed to be the crux higher up.
|Luke Brooks||06/May/08||Lead O/S|
Bloody brilliant, even on second, would love to come back and lead it.
|Alex Mason||05/Jun/07||Lead O/S||
Awesome best climbing experience ever i reckon. Did cross through on crux rather that low undercuts! 4*
|Ram MkiV||24/Aug/06||Lead O/S||
Was cutting this fine. Still tired from Kilnsey yesterday, the traverse section out of original route felt tough - only just made it. Everything else on the route went fine though, including the supposed crux.
|Dave Bond||30/May/04||Lead O/S||
simon "the horse" wilson
|Steve Bell||?/Jul/00||Lead O/S||
|craig h||01/Jun/99||Lead O/S||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||07/Aug/95||2nd||
|Stoney Boy||01/May/93||Lead O/S||
Bob Marks, Neil McCallum
Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
The start of Graeme's harder leads.
|steve taylor||?/Sep/91||Lead O/S||
First proper E4 :¬)
|whispering nic||?/Aug/91||Lead O/S||
|Rich Kirby||07/May/91||Lead O/S||
|William Robertson||?/Sep/88||Lead O/S||
|Chris Wright||13/Oct/85||Lead O/S|
|Mike Owen||09/Mar/85||Lead rpt||
finally climbed after a training visit to the Verdon - previous attempt ended below the crux with runners pulling sideways
I think I just seconded this, can't find record of exact date.
|Ian Jones||??/1983||Lead O/S||
John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis
|Mike Owen||10/Oct/82||Lead O/S||
|Chris Craggs||??/1980||Lead β||
Knocked a day off school! Did Demon Rib in the afternoon.
Wonderful route, one of my proudest achievements. Mike Hood took photographs (from abseil) covering all the hard climbing and these are a treasured possession (the quality posted at present is very poor, awaiting a slide scanner).