Derbyshire > High Tor >
 
Flaky Wall*** E4 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Tales of Yankee Power
 
Reproduction >>
[Flaky Wall, High Tor, 3 kb]35m. Another fine route, tracing the easiest line up the shield. Immaculate rock, good protection, a hands-off rest and some brilliant technical sequences. Start lower than Original Route as for Supersonic (this helps keep the wires on the crux in). Move up left and follow the crack as for Tales until the curving overlap on the right can be gained. Pull out right from this to a rest then climb direct up a peg-scarred crack (polished) to a good hold. Wander more easily rightwards up the dinner-plate flake and finish direct from its end. © ROCKFAX
FA. Doug Scott, Clive Davies 1961. The upper flake was much more friable making their ascent terrifying. The route was jokingly renamed every time someone removed one of the aid points. Hook-Crook Wall (4 pts) and Bulldog Wall (1 rest) are both previous n

Ticklists: The High Tor Top Ten, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: Flaky Wall, High Tor © petemeads
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Rick hard Rock - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14 with steve_yo

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/14

sazmaz - 2nd β - 09/Mar/14 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

harvie - Lead O/S - 2014

piken - Lead - 03/Sep/13

Fell off trying to pull through overlap. Think I tried going too high.
Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/13 with Masa

Shaky wall, need to do more of this.
nathanlee - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13 with James Turnbull

w.pettet-smith - 09/Jun/13 with oli

nickdonohue - 2nd - 26/May/13 with Ian Bryant

Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Ed Hamer, Sam Hamer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

buzby78 - 2nd - 24/Apr/13 with McGeek

hard crux, rest pretty friendly!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Neill Busby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/13

ianto - 2013

Really cool move going for the jug after the peg, (easy to catch if you're falling leftwards). Traverse is much easier if you go right and down an extra move to the good footholds below the big hold rather than try and span.
JRae - 2nd - 11/Nov/12 with M Watson

awesom
mwatson - Lead rpt - 11/Nov/12

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

Hard. Fell on the traverse under the first overhang.
brockers - 2nd - 30/Jun/12 with Nibbs

2nd'd Gareth up it last year
Ally Smith - Lead β - 10/Jun/12 with Dan Arkle

getting shut down again...
david morse - 2nd dog - 12/May/12 with markalmack

markalmack - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Dave morse

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/12

First E4! Thought the first traverse along the undercut break was nails, but the rest above was most welcome. The moves on the peg scars felt easier than the traverse, though they are getting a bit polished! Thought the final run out above the flake was a bit scary but that just added to the route.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Dave Bond - Lead rpt - 03/Sep/11 with brian

Brian Rodgers - 2nd rpt - 03/Sep/11 with Dave Bond

Hidden - Lead dog - 04/Jun/11

Jordan - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Joel Pixley

Tried to lead it (on mike's gear) in darkening light and pumped out after getting to the peg below the jug clean...a rest let me see a foothold which made the move easy. Decided to strip gear, climb back down to peg and ab off. Should go next time!
thomasadixon - Lead dnf - 22/Sep/10 with Mike

switch - 2nd - 11/Sep/10 with James

Martin Cleaver - 2nd - 26/May/10 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead RP - 26/May/10 with martin cleaver

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

nickcanute - Lead - 2010

Rich Kirby - 2nd rpt - 18/Oct/09 with Kev

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/09

James Thacker - 2nd - 15/Aug/09

Tried previous year, could not get across to the overlap.Still very hard. Probably good as the rest is even harder. Lots of 6a with the occasional 5c. Shattered at the end.
philhilo - 2nd dog - Jul/09 with brian rodgers

Beta = did Reproduction and Supersonic first
Cassidy - Lead β - 14/Jun/09 with Will, Duboust

Nicolas Duboust - 2nd - 14/Jun/09 with Alan, Will

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Tuffty Nick

tuftynick - 2nd rpt - 23/May/09 with tom briggs

Had seconded it before. Still well chuffed. Foot slipped on crux and nearly came off.
MONKEY78 - Lead β - 23/May/09 with adam ellwood

Pete Graham - Lead - May/09

Gutted I didn't lead it, quality!
willackers - 2nd β - 18/Apr/09 with Tom Mills

Brown - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Henry

Pete Graham - Lead - Apr/09 with Matt Lloyd

Had seconded before. Harder on the lead!
stevebarratt - Lead - 2009 with Dave Morse

morganator - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/08

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Steve barrat

Lobbed on a jammed wire by the first hard bit due to cowardice, and abbed off it cunningly a few times. Worked the move out for next time though.
Paz - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/08 with TS

Fell of the undercut moves first go, it was the first and only route of the day so my excuse is I wasn't warmed up! Lowered off and did it ground-up next go. Amazing climb, a contender for the best trad route I've ever done.
Andrew Barker - Lead - 26/Jul/08 with Skippy

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Awesome climb, found the traverse in from original route harder than whats supposed to be the crux higher up.
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 19/May/08 with Andy Nicholson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 06/May/08 with Neil Pope

alaan - Lead O/S - 05/May/08 with Matt

Bloody brilliant, even on second, would love to come back and lead it.
mattyork2 - 2nd - 05/May/08 with Alan Royle

nige - Lead - 05/May/08 with mark hounslea

Hidden - 2008

robyn1 - 2008

Hidden - 2008

feilx - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Mike Soldner

shark - Lead - 28/Jul/07 with John Codling

Awesome best climbing experience ever i reckon. Did cross through on crux rather that low undercuts! 4*
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/07 with tom rockcity

craig d - Lead - May/07 with Mark Bridgman-Smith

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06

Was cutting this fine. Still tired from Kilnsey yesterday, the traverse section out of original route felt tough - only just made it. Everything else on the route went fine though, including the supposed crux.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/06 with Alex

Bern - 2006

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 30/May/04 with Simon Wren

Gus - Lead O/S - May/04 with simon "the horse" wilson

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Aug/02

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2001

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/00

EagerAndy - 2000

craig h - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/99 with Chris c

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Apr/99

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jul/98

ste_d - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/96 with mik

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/96 with Steven Delderfield

Hidden - Lead - 22/Apr/96

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - 2nd - 1996

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 07/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

Roget - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/93 with jon

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 01/May/93 with Bob Marks, Neil McCallum

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/93 with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/May/92

Hidden - Lead dog - 27/Sep/91

First proper E4 :)
steve taylor - Lead O/S - Sep/91 with stumpy

keefe - 10/Aug/91

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Aug/91 with Graham Iles

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 07/May/91 with Dave Taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/90

Hidden - 1990

Pete Ogden - 1990 with Dave Ramsey

rob.grafton - 1990 with barry maybank

DDDD - 1989

William Robertson - Lead O/S - Sep/88 with Emily

Hidden - Lead - 05/Jun/88

shark - Lead - 1988

Billg - Lead O/S - 1988

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 18/Apr/87 with Shamim Velani

keefe - 26/Jun/86 with Johnny Adams

shark - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/85 with Paul Hempstock

shark - Lead - 18/Jun/85 with Dave Marsh

sadams - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/85 with Kevin Edwards

Ian Clare - 1985

finally climbed after a training visit to the Verdon - previous attempt ended below the crux with runners pulling sideways
andy gittins - 1985

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1983

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1983 with John Meyers, John Kirk, Mick Ward, Mick Bailey, Rich Lewis

Ivan Machin - 14/Oct/82 with Jon Mellor

Mike Owen - 10/Oct/82 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead - 1982

Knocked a day off school! Did Demon Rib in the afternoon.
Chris Craggs - Lead β - 1980 with Jim Rubery

robinsi197 - 2nd - 1980 with Patrick

Wonderful route, one of my proudest achievements. Mike Hood took photographs (from abseil) covering all the hard climbing and these are a treasured possession (the quality posted at present is very poor, awaiting a slide scanner).
petemeads - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/78 with Steve Taylor

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Liam Ingram, ashtond6, Nick Sillem, Si dH, Hidden, john morrissey, Hidden, Hidden, Mike Goldthorp, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, derekb, greenclimb, Hidden, Hidden, drcorbasisgod, jamiev, Hidden, Hidden, lukea, Matt Fry, Oli, ian caton, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 118
hard E50 of 40
E50 of 40
easy E51 of 40
hard E45 of 40
E429 of 40
easy E45 of 40
hard E30 of 40
E30 of 40
easy E30 of 40
hard 6b0 of 42
6b0 of 42
easy 6b0 of 42
hard 6a18 of 42
6a23 of 42
easy 6a1 of 42
hard 5c0 of 42
5c0 of 42
easy 5c0 of 42
3 Stars34 of 36
2 Stars2 of 36
1 Star0 of 36
0 Stars0 of 36
Bag of .....0 of 36
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Style of ascent

Lead78 of 122 (63.9%)
Followed24 of 122 (19.7%)
Unknown20 of 122 (16.4%)

'Climbed'52 of 122 (42.6%)
clean O/S45 of 122 (36.9%)
clean β6 of 122 (4.9%)
clean rpt7 of 122 (5.7%)
clean RP1 of 122 (0.8%)
dogged7 of 122 (5.7%)
dnf4 of 122 (3.3%)