Rockfax Description
10m. Sprint up the flake then swing left and make a swift mantelshelf before climbing a precarious scoop to a desperately rounded exit. Large Friend protects the last move. Every move is supposed to be worth three stars! © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1977

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Gaz of Bath 19/Sep Lead
SGD 05/Sep 2nd

Good lead from Dale, very smooth. Tom did it 1st, Dale followed then Dale Decided to do it so I followed Dale - if it wasn't for the hangover I would have probably led it myself. Excellent route.

with Dale
Dale ?/Sep Lead RP

My first E4 and a great route. Unfortunately I seconded it first I would of been able to onsite this, O well. Brilliant moves I never found it hard on second or on lead. I recon with modern gear it is only E3 I always thought E4 was going to feel hard for me maybe I was climbing well. Also first time climbing on grit this year. I look forward to some more.

with Tom stu friend, stu
Hidden 16/May -
Jake Young 19/Apr 2nd O/S
with Tim Newton
tim newton 19/Apr Lead O/S
with jake young
M_Robinson 19/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr 2nd O/S
Andrew Abraham 02/Apr 2nd rpt
with Paul Deane
Andy Peak 1 22/Mar 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 21/Mar Lead O/S

Had a big cam for the top runnel which tamed it a little. Cracking route.

John Higgs 20/Mar Lead G/U
with Caitlin Bell
Hidden 24/Sep/14 Lead
Andrew Abraham 12/Mar/14 Lead β

Mega, got this done at last after falling off it a few years ago.

with Ky
Andy Peak 1 12/Mar/14 Lead
Ky 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Wales
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Welly Matt 30/Nov/13 2nd β
Dan Geh 16/Jul/13 Lead RP

Didn't commit fully to the mantle and fell most the length of the crag with the nuts ripping out and hitting me in the face. Second attempt felt easy.

tgeh 16/Jul/13 Lead β

on dans gear

with imogene, dan geh
deejmonkey 17/Feb/13 TR
with len, Damian
Hidden 17/Feb/13 TR dog
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
Brown 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Lilifa
Nick Russell 07/Jul/12 Lead β

Beta: seen a video of somebody on the route

Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead RP
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead
yarrow 29/Mar/12 TR dnf
with Mark C, Rachel Takacs
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead
Stone Muppet 25/Feb/12 Lead RP

Probably could have onsighted this, but wouldn't have :) First E4!

with pe, ah
Mike Warner ??/2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
westaway 16/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 19/Sep/11 Lead O/S
grady ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S

on eds gear

Ky 21/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Danny T
belay bunny turned bad 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd β
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead
minirollsrule 20/Jun/11 Lead dnf


pipof747 03/Jun/11 Lead β


Diggler 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Stunning moves. Quite pleased with the onsight.

with Charlie
Coel Hellier 08/Apr/11 Lead
bavarianGaz 20/Mar/11 TR dnf

To lead one day hopefully

with Andy and Deej
A Downing 20/Mar/11 TR dnf
with Gaz
deejmonkey 20/Mar/11 TR
with Andy D, Gaz
bigie bob 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Boy 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Adam Long, Nige Kershaw
lukebowman551 04/Sep/10 TR dnf

Got to the top of the flake.

with henry crosby
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
ciaran1999 24/Apr/10 Lead

First E4!! an amazing climb but don't bring the wrong size cam for the top or the ground will seem very far below!

with saul
shafiq lalloo 23/Apr/10 2nd

dogged twice! Still an amazing, thought curling climb :D

ciaran1999 17/Apr/10 2nd
with jacob
Tom Last 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Couldn't reach the jug, quite dissapointed, but will be back.

with mkean
scotty h 17/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Annoyed that i couldn't make the move left, going to have to try this again.

jacobjacob 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Adam Ellwood 14/Apr/10 Lead β

Led on daves gear who did it first

with Dave Evans
drewish 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing and the mantle is ace... lots of pre-route anxiety for nothing...steady

with charlotte
kingholmesy ??/2010 Lead O/S
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
mic_b 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with mrsbate
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd RP
Alex Winter 20/Jul/09 Lead

Awesome route, although more like E3 5c

mlmatt 14/Jun/09 Lead

No top roping and my first E4 6a, great route!

Stoff ?/Jun/09 TR
nickwhimster 30/May/09 TR

top roped it to get gear out after Andy took to the air from the top out.

with andy abraham
monsteratt 30/May/09 2nd dog
with Andy Abe and & Co
MattT88 03/May/09 Lead rpt
steve_biczyk 03/May/09 Lead RP
with Emma Curry, Aron Urbanics, Bence Lam
MattT88 08/Apr/09 Lead RP

First go of the day, only previously logged top-roping for practice

MattT88 04/Apr/09 TR

Three times, need lead next time

with Alex Flemming
Theeni ?/Apr/09 TR O/S
stevebarratt ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Gareth Watkins
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 22/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Much use of the technical 'whale' manoeuvre at the top!

with Dad
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Nic Sellers
jonnyboy 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Sep/08 Lead

Didnt have large cam first time, sent second go

with Dave Wharton
Mr Wild 10/Aug/08 2nd O/S

definitly want to come back and lead

Luke Brooks 20/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Jus 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
daza 02/Nov/06 2nd
with Sam D
dominic lee ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with simon nadin
Ram MkiV 15/Apr/06 Lead dnf

managed to fall off the rock over move - poor, and then couldn't top out and had to be rescued - poorer (though the top was quite gritty/dirty)

with Alex
Jon Read 29/Jan/06 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Nice climb.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
philhilo ??/2005 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 09/Dec/04 Lead β
timbanton 09/Dec/04 Lead
with Dave
Rich Kirby 02/May/04 Lead O/S

A top 5 grit E4.

with Hugh
sadams 02/May/04 Lead
with Tom Briggs
Dave Musgrove Jnr 02/May/04 Lead O/S

Good day out with excellent new guide. Nice work Grimer

mbutton ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Gus Hudgens
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/03 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S

Didn't use a big cam. A very delicate finish. Brilliant route.

with Martin Flint
Hidden ??/2003 -
middlevern ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
adamwesthead 09/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Forshaw
Chris Reid ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
with ciaran troup
Gus 29/Aug/00 Lead O/S
nige ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Billg ?/Nov/98 Lead O/S
with Phil McAllistair
mikedelderfield 01/Sep/97 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with mik
Stoney Boy 31/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Mike Cluer
ShaunD ??/1997 Lead O/S

had to leap for the jug.well protected, even without the friend in the bum crack. ace!

Hidden ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
switch ??/1996 Lead O/S
Duncan Bourne 20/Aug/95 TR
with E Allcock
Roget 13/May/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Apr/91 TR O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lenny, Hidden, Hidden, Calum Wadsworth, ashtond6, PeteWilson, Owen W-G, Hidden, ChrisBrooke, sgl0jd, Hidden, tgeh, deklan, jonnybull, Alex.M-M., Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, andymoin, franksnb, Brendan, Hidden, donkster, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alaan, JonBray, Mr Wild, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 52
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set