12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. Climb the delicate arete with stretchy moves. Protection at the level of the niche is below the crux! Serious for the short. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This get MVS in BMC Kinder guide, left as VS (Rockfax) as there have already been may ticks at VS

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.


ClimberDateStyle
davelongbottom 05/Nov Lead β
with Cathy
w-watson 05/Nov Lead O/S
with Butch
charliepickering 05/Oct Lead O/S
with Hamish
Rory_Cummings_NI 04/Oct Solo O/S
mrphilipoldham 30/Sep Lead O/S
with Georgina Watt
Rob Jarratt 20/Sep Lead O/S

Side runner used

with James Rushton
M_Robinson 16/Sep Lead O/S
with Michael Morrell
Michael Morrell 16/Sep 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep 2nd
adi bryant 01/Sep 2nd
with Sam
alaster tonge 13/Aug Solo O/S
NickNixon 17/Jul Lead O/S
George Frisby 17/Jul Lead O/S
Gav Williams 05/Jul Lead
with Amy, Mark Ward
pc1983 06/Jun Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this, and yes, the protection at the niche does seem quite distant! But the climbing is solid.

with Dad
TDSvejstrup 16/May Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May 2nd
Jim Slater 08/May Lead O/S
with Maia
Hidden 08/May 2nd rpt
crag 03/May 2nd

2nd time climbed outside. Hard outdid it.

with Alan
Becks87 10/Apr 2nd O/S

Lovely!

therat 10/Apr -
atom 10/Apr Lead O/S

My favourite of the day, wonderful moves and a good amount of distance between protection. Nice and exposed too

FlavioL1989 25/Mar Solo O/S
Barrie Schofield II 22/Mar -
dbdandan 21/Mar Solo
Tithe Technique 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S
charley 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Ange, Kev
valentinesbabe 01/Nov/15 TR O/S

Tricky start for us shorties but really nice climb. Glad I wasn't on lead on it!

stacey73 10/Oct/15 2nd
with Emma
Robin Nichols 03/Oct/15 Solo O/S
with Jim, Roger
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Solo
Hidden 25/Sep/15 Solo
Hidden 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd
JackSnowden 24/Aug/15 -
Stukaill 02/Aug/15 2nd

1st 5a

ladislav 25/Jul/15 2nd
with Andy
Felix la shat 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with ben grounsell
Avon Man 26/Jun/15 Solo O/S
Andy Hardy 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
fids 09/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 26/Apr/15 Lead
with Colin Maddison
DanChad 23/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Jay Ibrahim, Chris Murray
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 23/Apr/15 Lead
JEP 21/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Apr/15 Lead
John Higgs 19/Apr/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
amccann 07/Mar/15 Solo rpt
franhammond92 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Milena
Calum Wadsworth 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Emma
angus ?/Mar/15 Solo O/S
angus ?/Mar/15 Solo O/S
Bryan M ??/2015 Lead
with Susannah Penk
Ben Grounsell ??/2015 Lead O/S
Jake Young 12/Oct/14 Solo O/S
jon.daniels ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Gerko
Hidden 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/14 2nd
Stickle Tarn 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
KeenClimber 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
tom bre 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

First V.S lead in 5 years! Nice climbing too, Chuffed :-)

with Lizzie, Paul Deane
Hidden 30/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
TGreen 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
chrisallan 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
leon 20/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Albachoss 16/Jun/14 Solo O/S
freemanTom 01/Jun/14 Lead
with Paul Davies
daviesp2 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Tom
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Solo
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd O/S
john_ni 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Alan Sanderson (PCC)
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/14 Lead
gregoritos 18/Apr/14 Solo O/S
fuzzysheep01 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 11/Mar/14 -
Alex_Derbyshire 05/Mar/14 Lead
Markheighton 05/Mar/14 2nd
Quarryboy 01/Mar/14 2nd O/S

First route of the day, got quite cold hands

with Nottingham University climbing club, Alkis Tsapanidis
Alkis 01/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
benjizac 01/Dec/13 TR RP

Only managed to top-rope it, but a nice little route. Gets easier after a tricky start. I went more direct than perhaps I should have, going up the right hand side of the arete, rather than the left, but the second attempt was much cleaner, and will certainly be back!

mattgrange 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Awkward in places

tgeh 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with imogene
ifletcher 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with tgeh
augustus trout 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Stuart Hurworth 28/Aug/13 2nd RP

Start is tricky and requires lots of strength! Once this is over the rest is easy by comparison.

with Manchester Climbing Club
MaccMark 28/Aug/13 2nd
Prof. Outdoors 26/Aug/13 TR
with Jeff, Lorna
D.botts87 24/Jul/13 2nd
with Jerome
MaccMark 24/Jul/13 Lead
Jeromecooper 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Charlie Staincliffe 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Stuart Myatt
sambosanquet101 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Francy Carranza
shaunhumphreys 01/Jul/13 Lead rpt

backed off this about a year ago

with Jem
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead RP
MaccMark 19/Jun/13 2nd
with Al Dossetter
spacecadetjake ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Robbie jenkins
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd O/S
HB1 31/May/13 Lead rpt
with KB
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
MD 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jo
Happy Wanderer 19/May/13 2nd O/S

Stumped by first move as too short so had to settle for a second.

with Mike D
Jules Lane 01/May/13 2nd O/S

Didn't realise had to keep to the arÍte, so did an easier version using cracks to left

Rich Malcolm 01/May/13 Lead β
Hoyes 01/May/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
Will Sheaff 24/Apr/13 2nd
with Jules Lane
R2B 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Enjoyable line as are most at Castle Naze.

with Charlotte
Hidden 13/Apr/13 Lead
tombradshaw123 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Marti999 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Debbie
debbie roberts 31/Mar/13 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
C May ??/2013 2nd
with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder ??/2013 Lead
with C May
rob 528 ??/2013 Lead O/S
eddiem1 26/Oct/12 TR β
Pete Nugent 21/Oct/12 2nd rpt

An absolutely brilliant October day - climbing in T-shirts under an azure blue sky. The route were slightly damp due to frost/dew sl we started on Niche Arete as this was in the Sun & dry. We finished (at Matts insistence!) on AP Chimney, which is unprotected for the most part. Much to my suprise, I was able to thrutch my way to the top. Dave Wearing has id on video!

with Matt Gordon, Ian Makin
kelliroberts3 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
RamblingRyan 13/Oct/12 2nd
with Danny, Col
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Will Caesar 09/Oct/12 2nd
RichyBOYY 09/Oct/12 Lead
PeteWilson 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S

tricky in the wind!

with robin
Matt JM Stevens 28/Aug/12 Lead
Nordie_matt 28/Aug/12 2nd
petekeron 24/Aug/12 Solo O/S
with Solo
stratandrew 08/Aug/12 2nd

Seconded for the second time.

with Philip Jarvis
ozzie35 08/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Steve Graham
Hidden 05/Aug/12 2nd
stratandrew 14/Jul/12 2nd

Crux is the first moves to mantelshelf onto the niche.

gw3285 14/Jul/12 Lead
Rob84 12/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Rob Adie
Bullybones 27/Jun/12 Lead
with Neil
spacey 20/Jun/12 Lead
with Frank
FrankW 20/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Rich M
Hidden 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 18/Jun/12 Lead
dazq 30/May/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/May/12 2nd
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 Solo O/S
Alex Winter 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Climbster 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Leslie
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead
sting 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with kwaidy
kwaidy 05/May/12 2nd
with sting
A Crook 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S
sgl 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ben
hoggy90 03/Mar/12 Lead
Zekurion 28/Jan/12 TR dog
Will Caesar ??/2012 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
lozowen 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Sally Owen
Hidden 19/Nov/11 2nd
timmyhobby 17/Nov/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/Sep/11 Lead
with Dave Wilson
ryansb90 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Daren Blackburn
Hidden 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd O/S
riddle 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
disturbed_one51 14/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 14/Aug/11 2nd
neilfish 03/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead
Col Allott 28/Jun/11 Solo rpt
Lumbering Oaf 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hoyes 26/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Verity P
Ketu 08/May/11 Lead O/S
with Charles M
cem 08/May/11 2nd rpt
JasRY 03/May/11 Lead O/S

A little delicate but awsome fun!

with Anne Boardman
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/11 Lead
Viki 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
climbinmunkey 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Tricky first move and great positions up the arete

with Helen
method 16/Apr/11 TR

trying it out

with graham
Hidden 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
whiting.jp 10/Apr/11 Lead
with jamesca
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
exit_music_ok ?/Apr/11 TR O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 23/Mar/11 Solo O/S
deklan 23/Mar/11 Solo
Chi Cheng 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Sam Simpson 13/Mar/11 -
Hidden 13/Mar/11 2nd
pyromantic 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Goose4 ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
RalphC 30/Oct/10 Lead

May have strayed a bit left onto The Niche by mistake near the top

with Austen
Mike_Hayes 24/Oct/10 -
with Sarah Marks
Hoyes 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Mark W
simeclimb68 25/Sep/10 Solo O/S
Dan Lane ?/Sep/10 Lead β
pldarch 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Isabel
dpmUK 11/Aug/10 2nd O/S
colin milton 05/Aug/10 Lead
with James Oswald
steveth 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S
chris_r 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not well protected.

James Oswald 05/Aug/10 2nd β

Nice. Hard start

Hannes B 13/Jul/10 2nd
with Mike
Byronius Maximus 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
shed_hed 03/Jul/10 Solo O/S
maybe_si 28/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 27/Jun/10 2nd
with Steve Wade
Hidden 23/Jun/10 2nd O/S
mol 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Jesse
Jesse Dufton 20/Jun/10 Lead
Alan100 12/Jun/10 Lead

the first half felt unprotected and a bit stiff for vs. felt more sketchy than the scoop..

Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
migs493 05/Jun/10 Solo O/S
wrapped in bacon 02/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Rob
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
Goodstuff 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/10 Lead
Stoff 04/May/10 TR rpt

Good first few moves.

with gpcomps
gpcomps 04/May/10 TR O/S
joe.91 28/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Olli-C 28/Apr/10 Lead
Pilch 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

polished and gear not as good as i expected.

with Andy
Jonathan Hall 23/Apr/10 2nd
with Jane Rigby
Irn Bruce 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
heavy Belay 23/Apr/10 2nd
with Fisher
JRigby 23/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Sam Simpson 12/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Col Allott 10/Apr/10 Solo
with Alexandra Sturrock
mike lawrence? 19/Mar/10 2nd
with Cap'n Tom
dswansonlow 13/Feb/10 Solo O/S
with Tom Green
Liam Ingram 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
rcammack 06/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Derek Furze ??/2010 -
cymjt ??/2010 -
cooper leek 26/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with crucko
Peakpdr 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
climbing_wiggy 17/Oct/09 2nd β
with Paul
Andy Clarke 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Fine climb with a stiff start.

with Ralph
BobPorter 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Simon
bobpilgrem 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Nice bouldery moves to reach the break- then fairly straightforward.

with Bob/Tom
tompilgrem 26/Sep/09 2nd
with Dad
richardhopton 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Kingsjester
Kingsjester 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Enjoyable climb. Start the hardest section.

Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd O/S
B_M 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Andrew Downing
ripper 12/Sep/09 Lead

quite a committing start but found the route really pleasant

with Marc B
HimTiggins 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with John
chrisclimber_1986 06/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with William Kelsall
markytaylor 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead
Col Allott 01/Jul/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with anthony
nic42 22/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Em66 22/Apr/09 2nd
with MUMC
djdf 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Stretchy and quality rock over to get up onto the arete, easier because I'm tall. Nervous and reachy moves above the niche to keep going. Hard to avoid using holds on the Severe crack above though.

with Pete
Steve Waters, Mynydd 19/Apr/09 2nd
mtempest 19/Apr/09 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
JDDD 19/Apr/09 Lead
MattT88 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Killianmurphy 12/Apr/09 2nd

climbed crack to the left to start

Stoff ?/Apr/09 TR
andeeeee 29/Mar/09 2nd
with Steve Taylor
sdht ?/Mar/09 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
LittleJoe 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Dad
rockman 26/Sep/08 2nd O/S
timcedwards 26/Sep/08 Lead
ed edwards 26/Sep/08 Lead
with rockman
Bob 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with M. Bullough
mark s 24/Aug/08 Solo O/S
jscoles 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Baker
tomB 08/Aug/08 2nd O/S
tobydunford 01/Aug/08 Solo O/S
Heinrich 01/Aug/08 TR O/S
with Graham Hoyland
Hidden 23/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/08 2nd
Ing 15/Jun/08 2nd
with Stevie G
skittles 04/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Whealiebob 24/May/08 Lead O/S
with Terry
Milne 24/May/08 2nd O/S

soft for 5a.

with Dave
john lynch 15/May/08 Lead
with mike lynch
leon ?/May/08 Lead
with Steven Davidson
Alfredo ?/May/08 Lead
with Ben H
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
b.hayley ?/Apr/08 2nd
Laurence Everitt 03/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Mark D
Mark D 03/Feb/08 2nd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2008 Solo rpt

Thought I'd soloed this onsight but have just looked at my logbook and apparently I lead it a couple of years ago.

daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
adam carless 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 25/Aug/07 Lead
with Phil Ashton
spacey 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jo macey
jossa ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Moley
ChrisBrooke 14/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
leon ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Xav 30/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 Lead
Stig 25/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Ian Bruce
Rampikino 20/Apr/07 Lead
with Cat
Hidden 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
naughtybadboy 01/Apr/07 2nd
MontyH 17/Mar/07 TR O/S
with Adam Davidson
Col Allott 25/Jan/07 Solo O/S
FrankW 26/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden 29/Oct/06 2nd
MeMeMe 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden 30/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Solo O/S
with keith leonard
Chris Davids 30/May/06 2nd O/S
with Reuben
Shad ?/May/06 Lead
studly84 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Two hard pulls then smooth all the way up.

with thomas poulton
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
tontopink 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
tatz45 10/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Hannah Cappleman
dan_o_b ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??/2006 Lead O/S
with SteveOc
Hidden 04/Sep/05 2nd
JonBray 17/Aug/05 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 23/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Jon
Jonny M 23/Jul/05 Lead O/S
cem 02/Jul/05 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/05 Solo
Hidden ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/05 2nd
Ander 13/Aug/04 Lead
with Fletch
Dave Mason ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Andy Hobbs
lost.arrow 16/May/04 -
chrishedgehog 25/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Chalky Cat ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Dom
Okecroak 19/Sep/03 Lead
with J Teale
Hidden ?/Jun/03 2nd
Cake ?/Jun/03 Lead
with Matt
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Solo O/S
Mark Davies PK ??/2001 Lead O/S
Roget 01/Jul/99 Solo O/S
John Eley ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
fellgazelle ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Alan Haigh
Hidden 04/Jul/98 Solo O/S
Blod 02/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Keith T
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Martin Bennett 12/Sep/95 Solo
Howard J 25/Jul/95 2nd dnf
runestone 25/Jul/95 Lead
The Reaper 02/Jun/95 Solo O/S
goi.ashmore 21/May/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/94 Solo
Rog Wilko ?/Jul/94 Lead

Worth VS 4c.

with Debbie Wilkinson
steve prior ?/Sep/91 Lead
with Chris S
Hidden 03/Jul/91 Lead
Rob Davies 11/Jun/91 Lead
with John Pethica
Andy Say 23/Sep/87 Solo
Tim Bateman 17/Apr/85 2nd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1985 -
uphillnow ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/80 Solo
Hidden 24/May/77 Solo O/S
mikej 12/Oct/74 Solo
Hidden 17/Jul/65 Solo
Hidden 29/Jun/65 Lead
11 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 59
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set