Derbyshire > Castle Naze >
 
Niche Arete** VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
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[Richard (68!) on Niche Arete Crux, good going!, 2 kb]12m. Climb the delicate arete with stretchy moves. Protection at the level of the niche is below the crux! Serious for the short. © ROCKFAX
This get MVS in BMC Kinder guide, left as VS (Rockfax) as there have already been may ticks at VS

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

Photo: Richard (68!) on Niche Arete Crux, good going! © PeteWilson
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 287 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

fuzzysheep01 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Adam Butler

jimbonfire - 11/Mar/14

Alex_Derbyshire - Lead - 05/Mar/14

Markheighton - Lead - 05/Mar/14

First route of the day, got quite cold hands
Quarryboy - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Nottingham University climbing club, Alkis Tsapanidis

Alkis - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - 2014

Only managed to top-rope it, but a nice little route. Gets easier after a tricky start. I went more direct than perhaps I should have, going up the right hand side of the arete, rather than the left, but the second attempt was much cleaner, and will certainly be back!
benjizac - TR RP - 01/Dec/13 with Troy Midwood

Awkward in places
mattgrange - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

tgeh - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with imogene

ifletcher - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with tgeh

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13

Start is tricky and requires lots of strength! Once this is over the rest is easy by comparison.
Stuart Hurworth - 2nd RP - 28/Aug/13 with Manchester Climbing Club

Prof. Outdoors - TR - 26/Aug/13 with Jeff, Lorna

D.botts87 - 2nd - 24/Jul/13 with Jerome

MaccMark - Lead - 24/Jul/13 with Chris Morrow

Jeromecooper - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13

very very reachy start, would feel dubious leading this
Beth-Cath-T - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Emma

Charlie Staincliffe - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Stuart Myatt

sambosanquet101 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/13 with Francy Carranza

backed off this about a year ago
shaunhumphreys - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/13 with Jem

tsl42 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/13 with David Fountain

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Jun/13

MaccMark - 2nd - 19/Jun/13 with Al Dossetter

spacecadetjake - 2nd - Jun/13 with Robbie jenkins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/13

HB1 - Lead rpt - 31/May/13 with KB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

MD - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Jo

Stumped by first move as too short so had to settle for a second.
Happy Wanderer - 2nd O/S - 19/May/13 with Mike D

Didn't realise had to keep to the arÍte, so did an easier version using cracks to left
Julian Lane - 2nd O/S - 01/May/13 with Mynydd James

Rich Malcolm - Lead β - 01/May/13 with Lee Stanley

Hoyes - Lead rpt - 01/May/13 with Julian L

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Apr/13

Will Sheaff - 2nd - 24/Apr/13 with Jules Lane

Enjoyable line as are most at Castle Naze.
R2B - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Charlotte

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/13

tombradshaw123 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/13

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/13 with Debbie

debbie roberts - Lead - 31/Mar/13 with Marti999

Hidden - 2013

eddiem1 - TR β - 26/Oct/12

An absolutely brilliant October day - climbing in T-shirts under an azure blue sky. The route were slightly damp due to frost/dew sl we started on Niche Arete as this was in the Sun & dry. We finished (at Matts insistence!) on AP Chimney, which is unprotected for the most part. Much to my suprise, I was able to thrutch my way to the top. Dave Wearing has id on video!
Pete Nugent - 2nd rpt - 21/Oct/12 with Matt Gordon, Ian Makin

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Peter Rigby

RamblingRyan - 2nd - 13/Oct/12 with Danny, Col

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12

Will Caesar - 2nd - 09/Oct/12 with Ric Elliott

RichyBOYY - Lead - 09/Oct/12 with Will Caesar

tricky in the wind!
PeteWilson - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with robin

Matt JM Stevens - Lead - 28/Aug/12 with Nordie_matt

Nordie_matt - 2nd - 28/Aug/12 with Matt JM Stevens

petekeron - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/12 with Solo

Seconded for the second time.
stratandrew - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Philip Jarvis

ozzie35 - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/12 with Steve Graham

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Aug/12

Crux is the first moves to mantelshelf onto the niche.
stratandrew - 2nd - 14/Jul/12 with Gareth Williams

gw3285 - Lead - 14/Jul/12

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Rob Adie

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jun/12

spacey - Lead - 20/Jun/12 with Frank

FrankW - 2nd rpt - 20/Jun/12 with Rich M

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead - 18/Jun/12

dazq - 2nd rpt - 30/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/May/12

Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with C. Prescott

Climbster - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Leslie

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/12

sting - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with kwaidy

kwaidy - 2nd - 05/May/12 with sting

A Crook - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Dom Stockton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12

sgl - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with ben

hoggy90 - Lead - 03/Mar/12

Zekurion - TR dog - 28/Jan/12

Will Caesar - Lead O/S - 2012 with Rob Caesar

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - 2012

lozowen - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Sally Owen

timmyhobby - Lead - 17/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/11

Steve Waters, Mynydd - Lead - 20/Sep/11 with Dave Wilson

ryansb90 - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/11 with Daren Blackburn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/11

riddle - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Yasmina

disturbed_one51 - Solo - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - Solo - 26/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 04/Jul/11

Col Allott - Solo rpt - 28/Jun/11

Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Rach Batt

Hoyes - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Verity P

Ketu - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Charles M

cem - 2nd rpt - 08/May/11 with Rob Truckle

A little delicate but awsome fun!
JYates - Lead O/S - 03/May/11 with Anne Boardman

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/11

Viki - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11

Tricky first move and great positions up the arete
climbinmunkey - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Helen

trying it out
method - TR - 16/Apr/11 with graham

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11

whiting.jp - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with jamesca

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11

exit_music_ok - TR O/S - Apr/11

Wallnuts 1,5, Friend 1. Crux is the bouldering problem start.
gavinpeach - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Liam Ward

Somerset swede basher - Solo O/S - 23/Mar/11

deklan - Solo - 23/Mar/11

Chi Cheng - Solo O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Rachel Stater

samsimpson - 13/Mar/11 with JNewbiggin

John Newbiggin - 2nd - 13/Mar/11 with samsimpson

pyromantic - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

Goose4 - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2011

May have strayed a bit left onto The Niche by mistake near the top
RalphC - Lead - 30/Oct/10 with Austen

wolverine - 24/Oct/10 with Sarah Marks

Hoyes - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Mark W

simeclimb68 - Solo O/S - 25/Sep/10

Dan Lane - Lead β - Sep/10 with Dan Money

pldarch - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Isabel

dpmUK - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Little Dan

colin milton - Lead - 05/Aug/10 with James Oswald

steveth - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Chris Roberts

Not well protected.
chris_r - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Steve Thompson

Nice. Hard start
James Oswald - 2nd β - 05/Aug/10 with Colin Milton

Hannes B - 2nd - 13/Jul/10 with Mike

Byronius Maximus - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/10

shed_hed - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/10

maybe_si - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/10

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 27/Jun/10 with Steve Wade

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/10

mol - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Jesse

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 20/Jun/10 with Molly Thompson

the first half felt unprotected and a bit stiff for vs. felt more sketchy than the scoop..
Alan100 - Lead - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/10

migs493 - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/10

wrapped in bacon - Lead RP - 02/Jun/10 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/10

Goodstuff - Lead O/S - 28/May/10

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/10

Good first few moves.
Stoff - TR rpt - 04/May/10 with gpcomps

gpcomps - TR O/S - 04/May/10 with Chris Bridgland

joe.91 - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/10 with Olli Crudge

Olli-C - Lead - 28/Apr/10 with Joe Dobson

polished and gear not as good as i expected.
Pilch - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Andy

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 23/Apr/10 with Jane Rigby

Irn Bruce - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Ben Wallace

heavy Belay - 2nd - 23/Apr/10 with Fisher

JRigby - Lead - 23/Apr/10

John Newbiggin - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/10 with samsimpson

samsimpson - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/10 with JNewbiggin

Col Allott - Solo - 10/Apr/10 with Alexandra Sturrock

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Mar/10

dswansonlow - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Tom Green

Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Robbie Cammack

rcammack - 2nd O/S - 06/Feb/10 with liam ingram

bit of a one move wonder, both led so just pulled ropes
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/10

Ken Taylor - 2010

Derek Furze - 2010

cooper leek - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/09 with crucko

pauldr - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with paul farmer

climbing_wiggy - 2nd β - 17/Oct/09 with Paul

Fine climb with a stiff start.
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Ralph

BobPorter - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Simon

Nice bouldery moves to reach the break- then fairly straightforward.
bobpilgrem - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Bob/Tom

tompilgrem - 2nd - 26/Sep/09 with Dad

richardhopton - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Kingsjester

Enjoyable climb. Start the hardest section.
Kingsjester - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Richard Hopton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09

B_M - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Andrew Downing

quite a committing start but found the route really pleasant
ripper - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Marc B

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with John

chrisclimber_1986 - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with William Kelsall

markytaylor - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/09

Col Allott - Solo rpt - 01/Jul/09

A nice route, tricky start, with quality moves easing in difficulty with height.
Fire Marshall - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Cragrat Rich

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/09

slacky - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/09

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/09 with anthony

nic42 - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09

Em66 - 2nd - 22/Apr/09 with MUMC

Stretchy and quality rock over to get up onto the arete, easier because I'm tall. Nervous and reachy moves above the niche to keep going. Hard to avoid using holds on the Severe crack above though.
djdf - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/09 with Pete

Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 19/Apr/09 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/09

Jon Dittman - Lead - 19/Apr/09

MattT88 - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Killian Murphy

climbed crack to the left to start
Killianmurphy - 2nd - 12/Apr/09 with Matt Turner

Stoff - TR - Apr/09

andeeeee - 2nd - 29/Mar/09 with Steve Taylor

sdht - Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

LittleJoe - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Dad

rockman - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/08 with Andrew Edwards, Tim Edwards

timcedwards - Lead - 26/Sep/08 with Geoff Mee

ed edwards - Lead - 26/Sep/08 with rockman

Bob - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with M. Bullough

mark s - Solo O/S - 24/Aug/08

jscoles - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/08 with Tom Baker

tomB - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/08 with James Coles

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 01/Aug/08

Heinrich - TR O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Graham Hoyland

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Jul/08

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Jun/08

Ing - 2nd - 15/Jun/08 with Stevie G

skittles - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/08 with will johnson

will6459 - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Sam Crabb

Whealiebob - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Terry

soft for 5a.
Milne - 2nd O/S - 24/May/08 with Dave

john lynch - Lead - 15/May/08 with mike lynch

leon - Lead - May/08 with Steven Davidson

Alfredo - Lead - May/08 with Ben H

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/08

b.hayley - 2nd - Apr/08

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 03/Feb/08 with Mark D

Mark D - 2nd O/S - 03/Feb/08 with Laurence Everitt

Thought I'd soloed this onsight but have just looked at my logbook and apparently I lead it a couple of years ago.
kingholmesy - Solo rpt - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with James Rowe

spacey - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with jo macey

jossa - 2nd - Aug/07 with Moley

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/07 with John Inkpen

leon - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Amanda Skeldon

Xav - Solo O/S - 30/May/07

Hidden - Lead - 26/May/07

Stig - Solo O/S - 25/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/07 with Ian Bruce

Rampikino - Lead - 20/Apr/07 with Cat

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/07

naughtybadboy - 2nd - 01/Apr/07

MontyH - TR O/S - 17/Mar/07 with Adam Davidson

Col Allott - Solo O/S - 25/Jan/07

FrankW - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/06 with Laura

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Oct/06

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Nick

Hidden - Solo O/S - 30/Jul/06

Nicos - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/06 with keith leonard

Chris Davids - 2nd O/S - 30/May/06 with Reuben

Shad - Lead - May/06

Two hard pulls then smooth all the way up.
studly84 - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/06 with thomas poulton

LakesWinter - 2nd - 22/Apr/06 with Mr Harvey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06

tontopink - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Steven Farden

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/06 with Hannah Cappleman

Hidden - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2006 with SteveOc

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Sep/05

JonBray - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/05

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/05 with Jon

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/05 with Victim of Maths

cem - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/05

Chris the Tall - Solo - Jun/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/05

JohnHutch - 2nd - 25/Apr/05 with L

Ander - Lead - 13/Aug/04 with Fletch

Dave Mason - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Andy Hobbs

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/04 with Joe Thompson

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Dom

Okecroak - Lead - 19/Sep/03 with J Teale

LakesWinter - 2nd - Jun/03 with Cake

Cake - Lead - Jun/03 with Matt

Hidden - Solo O/S - Feb/03

Hidden - 2003

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 2001

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/99

Howard J - 2nd dnf - 25/Jul/95 with Steve Jolley

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 21/May/95

Hidden - Solo - 10/Sep/94

Worth VS 4c.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jul/94 with Debbie Wilkinson

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/91

Andy Say - Solo - 23/Sep/87

Tim Bateman - 2nd - 17/Apr/85

Steve Lenartowicz - 1985

Hidden - Solo - 27/Aug/80

Hidden - Solo O/S - 24/May/77

mikej - Solo - 12/Oct/74

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, PeteWilson, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alimckay, SecretSquirrel, studly84

Voting
Total votes cast 143
hard HVS0 of 48
HVS0 of 48
easy HVS0 of 48
hard VS9 of 48
VS35 of 48
easy VS4 of 48
hard HS0 of 48
HS0 of 48
easy HS0 of 48
hard 5b0 of 48
5b0 of 48
easy 5b0 of 48
hard 5a2 of 48
5a31 of 48
easy 5a7 of 48
hard 4c8 of 48
4c0 of 48
easy 4c0 of 48
3 Stars3 of 47
2 Stars23 of 47
1 Star21 of 47
0 Stars0 of 47
Bag of .....0 of 47
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed37 of 287 (12.9%)
Lead138 of 287 (48.1%)
Followed87 of 287 (30.3%)
Toproped11 of 287 (3.8%)
Unknown14 of 287 (4.9%)

'Climbed'111 of 287 (38.7%)
clean O/S152 of 287 (53.0%)
clean β5 of 287 (1.7%)
clean rpt13 of 287 (4.5%)
clean RP4 of 287 (1.4%)
dogged1 of 287 (0.3%)
dnf1 of 287 (0.3%)