12m. The classic of the crag. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a standing position precariously. Pad across the scoop and go up a thin crack to a pocket (big nut) and a tricky (crucial if you are pumped?) finish on the left. Barefoot ascents have long been traditional though the modern alternative of sticky rubber is a much better idea! For those who can't manage the start, the scoop can be accessed from Keep Arete at VS 4c. © Rockfax
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1914
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins..
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Gaz of Bath||12/Oct||Lead O/S|
|tom bre||11/Oct||2nd rpt|
|George Killaspy||11/Oct||Lead O/S||
Foot slipped on the glassy hold before the scoop, had to have the right cam sent up to fit the pocket. Pumped from the issues and made the final moves feel desperate.
Victor, Ade Halliwell, Charlotte
|Robin Nichols||03/Oct||Solo O/S||
|Andy Peak 1||19/Sep||Solo O/S||
Camilla Brimble, Joe Mortimer
Very scary and very worthwhile, found a small cam placement in the break left of the scoop but really shouldn't have placed it on single rope. Precarious cam in the mouth of the flared pocket but found a great place for a 0.5 cam a few inches to the right before a quick exit to the top. Best climb I've done in a long time
|Gordon W||23/Aug||Lead O/S|
bethy, Jenny Monkey
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||11/Aug||Solo O/S|
Deserves its status as good climb, evening session, only ones at crag, prob last evening out of year, climbed as sun just setting. Doesnt get much better.
We set up a top rope to establish gear. Unfortunately it started raining before a chance for Luke to lead it. You do not want to be stuck on a slippery scoop in the wet!
|C Witter||15/Jul||2nd O/S||
Bold lead, but very pleasant and enjoyable to second.
Great route. Perhaps a touch high in the grade, as there is close to no gear apart from the obvious letterbox.
|Felix la shat||27/Jun||Lead O/S||
Deserves it's status. The first move is the hardest with the slippery hand hold, the others are solid and as you move up they feel more committing. Top roped it this time, aiming to lead this one day.
|Little Amy||?/May||TR RP|
Very slippery start- if only I could add 2 extra inches to my......arms
Alexandra Pawlik, Steve Graham
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||23/Apr||2nd|
Easy climbing and definitely worth 3 stars!
Jay Ibrahim, Chris Murray
|John Higgs||19/Apr||Solo O/S|
|Jamie Light||06/Apr||2nd O/S|
Slipped off the top of the glassy holds. Didn't hurt myself, and got back on it but it felt laboured and nervy after the fall.
Ollie, Nick Manasseh
|Matt Harmon||07/Mar||Lead β||
led on Harry's gear just after he had led it
At night on the way back from Gogarth in complete fog - damp.
|Jake Young||12/Oct/14||Solo O/S|
|David Shelmerdine||12/Oct/14||TR β|
Really nice committing climb that I've had my eye on for a while
Could be such a wonderful climb if it weren't for the polished start.
|Stickle Tarn||13/Sep/14||Lead rpt||
Gold BD cam in the pocket.
Really nice and quite exciting
Anna d, Bethan D
|Haydn Jones||31/Aug/14||Solo O/S|
|Alex Hallam||07/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
Scarier than it looks, if you fell off the top you'd definitely hit the floor. Mesmerising.
|Louis Miller||01/Aug/14||Solo O/S||
Excellent climbing, was just taking a look at the bottom in approach shoes, next thing I knew I was in the scoop and thought may aswell carry on!
|Patrick Green||25/Jul/14||Lead β||
|Happy Wanderer||12/Jul/14||2nd RP||
Getting off the ground is the hardest part!
|el disco||01/Jul/14||2nd O/S||
almost managed the direct start, but had to get in from the side.
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||21/Jun/14||Lead||
|Andrew Abraham||21/Jun/14||Lead O/S|
|Nick Sherring||21/Jun/14||2nd β|
Should be 'Solo (dogged)'. (!) Got up to the scoop OK but was then psyched out by the surprisingly hard steep section at the top. Got the assistance of a rope to hold on to for the final section. Wishing I'd geared up to do it rather than trying to copy the others who'd soloed it (but also grateful that they were there to give me a hand when needed!).
Great route. Slightly tricky to start, finish on larger holds.
|Ed Hayter||06/Jun/14||Lead O/S|
Rob Adie, Mel
Excellent odd route. Had micro wires thrown up to me to get something in after hard start. Didn't have large enough cam for pocket had passive can placement and wobbly but. Steep finish. Tests you all the way
|Don't like e3s||31/May/14||2nd|
Great boulder start, very fun traverse
Damp, polished start, flakey end, dogged. Woof woof. Must come back in dry after practice
Bold. Micro wires possible after initial hard moves. Light drizzle.
|Bernie L||28/May/14||2nd RP|
|Ciaran Mullan||20/May/14||2nd β|
Becky Ellis (PCC)
|Becky E||18/May/14||2nd dog||
Slithered off starting holds a couple of times. Marred by the polish.
Ingo Boegeman, Fraser Campbell
|Stickle Tarn||03/May/14||Lead O/S|
Caught by torrential hailstorm while near top. Soaked everything and made the finish a real challenge!
Took many attempts to get up the scoop, thoroughly enjoyable though!
Quite scary really, the gear in the pocket is about the only gear worth trusting. Very enjoyable none the less.
Didn't have any gear that would fit in the crucial pocket so resorted to stacking nuts which is something I don't have to do all that often, glad I climbed it though as it is probably the most striking feature of the crag.
Nottingham University climbing club, Alkis Tsapanidis
A classic and easy to see why.
|Matt Smith||13/Nov/13||Lead O/S|
Solo'd on a whim. Great fun once past the super polished slopers at the base.
Paul, James Lawson
|augustus trout||28/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
|Gary Coggon||15/Aug/13||Lead O/S||
Necky, buzzy, memorable
|TJ Mather||19/Jul/13||2nd RP||
Very hard start, then it gets easier but very bold.
James W, Mike Bottomley
|Michael Brown||14/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
Feet are getting a little polished at the bottom but still grippy enough for hands.
|The Norris||26/Jun/13||Lead O/S||
nearly got persuaded that putting gear in the big pocket wasnt allowed... nearly.
|James Oakes||18/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
john corbett, sam corbett
Clean on sight. Was considering leading this but after watching others on it first - itís BOLD! Frustratingly hard and polished start. Easier for the tall and probably best described as HVS 4c with a 5a/b boulder problem start.
Catherine, Ciaran Gallagher, Mike Bailey
Cathrine Murphy, Ciaren Gallagher, Dominic Gallagher
|Rich Malcolm||01/May/13||Lead β|
|sam corbett||?/May/13||Lead O/S||
|rob 528||?/May/13||Solo O/S|
|Jules Lane||24/Apr/13||Lead β||
Found the end hard. Also found it difficult to protect. Loved padding along the ledge.
Soft HVS, one tricky 5a move, the rest is simple. Really pleasant though.
|Jim Brownlow||16/Feb/13||2nd O/S||
Dan Purser, Liam O'Loughlin
|Pete Nugent||21/Oct/12||2nd rpt||
Matt Gordon, Ian Makin
Really good climb, got a little pumped towards the end
Fantastic! Much easier with just climbing to focus on. Lead after with a bit of difficulty.
|Will Caesar||09/Oct/12||Lead O/S|
|Tom Redmond||05/Oct/12||Lead O/S||
Nice route, super grippy.
|Will Caesar||17/Sep/12||2nd O/S|
Rob H, Tim R, Sophie R
Glad to finally get it done. Wasnt nice topping out in the wind and rain.
|Bloke on a Rope||07/Sep/12||Lead O/S|
Found the start really hard even though i did it clean first time last month....
|Stoney Boy||23/Jul/12||Solo O/S|
|Wayne S||22/Jul/12||Lead O/S|
couldnt do the first move past the polished ledge at all! eventually resorted to anti gravity delivered via rope
very polished slopers at start but eases in difficulty.
|The Blue Bucket||?/Jul/12||Lead rpt||
Fell just after making the hard moves onto the scoop , so relieved at getting up placed my whole foot on the big foothold it was covered in sand from the ground and down I came (8 - 10 ft no gear) bottomed out, back up straight away top out not great
|Tom Doldon||17/Jun/12||Lead O/S||
Nice polished bouldery start, then thin but easy moves to a juggy Finnish and fun top out, enjoyable route,
|Alex Winter||20/May/12||Lead O/S|
|Jonny Nick||20/May/12||Lead O/S|
A nice climb.
David Shelmerdine, Gavin Peach
|David Shelmerdine||08/May/12||Lead rpt||
|A Crook||01/Apr/12||2nd rpt|
Damien K, Tony
ONCE AGAIN TOP ROPED IT A FEW WEEKS BEFORE CAM BACK AND LEAD IT, NOT MUCH GEAR, PRETTY LOW FOR A 5A DEFINITELY A HVS NOT MANY PLACES FOR GEAR UNTIL ACTUALLY ON THE SCOOP, VERY NICE CLIMB
|paul horabin||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S|
|Dave Latimer||18/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
nice route, only placed 2 pieces of gear though! sure there should have been more...
|David Kay||28/Jun/11||Lead β||
Beta unavoidable with the in depth guidebook description. Thanks Rockfax :p
|Col Allott||28/Jun/11||Solo O/S|
|Lumbering Oaf||26/Jun/11||Lead O/S|
Polished balancy start but fun
Alex Shermer, Phil Smith
James Moore, Paul Rowlands
|joe king||20/Jun/11||2nd O/S||
James Moore, dan towns
Some nervous moments, hard start but the rest has good holds and the pocket runner was a novel experience!
|Dan Geh||03/Jun/11||Lead O/S||
very nice, one size 4 cam in pocket
Amazing good route, quite head gamesy. tiny p-nut in scoop popped out(first gear), bomber but loose hex in big pocket was only protection to topout
rather polished in places but yea good fun route
|Nick Rundall||19/Apr/11||2nd rpt||
Leon Skeldon, Al Padkin
First HVS, loved every minute of it. Loved the pocket after the traverse, stuck a bit cam in there, very reassuring.
More like a solo! Size 3 friend in the pocket was insecure; might be better with a hex. Got a confidence nut in before moving across the scoop and one good piece for the top out. Enjoyable and gripping!
Excellent route and a great lead for the tick list. Friend 3 in the pocket and a 0.5 to protect the top section. Hex 7 might work in the pocket too. Excellent!
Very polished, but good fun.
|Somerset swede basher||23/Mar/11||Solo O/S|
|Chi Cheng||22/Mar/11||Solo rpt|
|Rachel Slater||22/Mar/11||Solo O/S|
|Stuart William||19/Mar/11||Lead β||
i think i can lead this route quite easily, the start is quite bouldery and technical but with a nice slabby bit folowed by a thrusty crack :D
Couldn't start! :*
Very polished. Didn't have right sized gear for the pocket so last bit of gear was below the scoop!
The little flake on the scoop is broken & I didn't have the right sized gear for the large pocket. Got a cam in on Scoop Direct then went back right.
although only practice was last years on sight lead.
|Tala M||25/Sep/10||Lead RP||
Top-roped once to crack the boulder problem start then lead clean. I'd agree its hard for the short but not impossible. First HVS lead
|Howard J||21/Sep/10||2nd rpt||
Cara, Dan, Meirion, Cath Walton
|Sam Simpson||04/Sep/10||Lead O/S|
|Alex Thompson||21/Aug/10||Solo O/S||
Really polished start crox moves.
|James Oswald||05/Aug/10||2nd β||
Good. Very polished start which felt hard.
|Steven Andrews||25/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
|Hannes B||13/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
|Byronius Maximus||03/Jul/10||Solo O/S|
Polished start - hardest part. Not at all happy with the "nut big pocket". Ended up with a nut and cam in the same pocket !
Mark L, gpcomps
horrible tip toe across scoop
|wrapped in bacon||17/Jun/10||Lead O/S||
Low in the grade but i lovely climb. I reckon without the polish on the opening moves this would be VS. Having said that I nearly fell when my foot popped of the shinest of the holds. That'll teach me to stop concentrating! Don't bother trying to use a friend in the pocket tho - it's perfect for a sideways hex..
Mark Ford, Andy Crawley
had just soloed Scoop Direct, so knew how to the balancy first section worked
Paul, Matt, Rach
Nice climb although the begining is a little polished up to the scoop and then minimal gear to the top. Bare feet next time!
Great route, sweetly precarious enough in the right places. Quality moves!!
|Sam Simpson||12/May/10||TR O/S|
nice, bit polished and soft at HVS.
|Nick Rundall||27/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
Adam Youd, Jon Taylor
|Chi Cheng||18/Apr/10||Lead O/S|
|Liam Ingram||06/Feb/10||2nd O/S|
Difficult start and top out.
mark H, Chris Gardner
The start is indeed tricky for the short. Took me a few attempts to reach the good hold and then gain the scoop.
|A Downing||13/Sep/09||2nd rpt||
very tricky start, came very close to popping off the last of the "glassy slopers", which could have been nasty... once established on the scoop the padding was pleasant with just enough exposure to concentrate the mind!
|robin heath||03/Aug/09||Solo O/S||
|Col Allott||01/Jul/09||Solo rpt|
topping out is tricky a its always loose shale. only an hvs because theres no gear until halfway.
|Jim Slater||27/Jun/09||Lead O/S||
Great lead by Al! Was bloody roasting and friction was rubbish. Had to haul up gear twice when nothing would go in the huge pocket. Lovely moves.
|cooper leek||30/May/09||2nd rpt||
|Dan Lane||29/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
Very nice, start is the crux, padding acoss the slab, easy but runout and feels scary. Size 6 hex (light blue) in the pocket.
|Jules Lane||29/Apr/09||2nd O/S||
Really nice climb - 2 or 3 lovely moves. Easy side of 5a
|Graeme Hammond||26/Apr/09||Lead O/S|
|Duncan Skelton||26/Apr/09||Lead rpt||
First HVS! Felt a bit soft though. The VS route that bypasses the start moves has gear, but it's useless once you get into the scoop. The 'bouldery' 5a moves to get into the scoop felt like a piece of piss anyway. Padding across the scoop - very nervous until I could reach the pocket and stick in #6 hex (thanks for the beta that man). Traverse across and out with heart still in mouth. Fantastic. Pleased with myself.
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||19/Apr/09||2nd|
Steve Waters, Mynydd
|Glyn Davidson||16/Apr/09||Lead O/S||
Put a cam in the top pocket. As it rained heavily I abseiled down to remove my gear. Looking at the cam in the pocket, I don't think it would have held.
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||02/Apr/09||Lead O/S|
Scared me even on a top rope.
Chris Eccles, Jo Fromant
|A Mountain Journey||??/2009||2nd||
Padding across the scoop was a delight
a pleasing ascent, a brass wire in the scoop boosted confidence
Lloyd and Graham
Thrutchy but well worth it
Led it barefoot though took a little fall which sandpapered my toes a bit! Finished it though - nice route
My brother Robin
|John Marsland||23/Aug/08||Lead O/S|
|Little AndyH||28/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
|Luke Brooks||25/Jun/08||Solo O/S||
With 30mph winds - quite scary!
Pete got the good bit of gear in and then another bit that promptly fell out as he moved past it. Don't think I will be leading this for some time!!
Pleasant moves, although the top was a bit rude for the lead I was following!
The crux was very polished but brilliant route overall.
No cam to fit crucial pocket!
|Andy Clarke||29/May/08||Lead O/S||
|Harry Thorpe||27/Apr/08||2nd O/S||
|adam carless||19/Apr/08||2nd rpt|
|Mark D||03/Feb/08||Lead O/S|
Deceptive - the bottom moves on polished ledges are easier than they look but the top moves are harder than they look
First HVS! After quickly bouldering the starting moves to make sure I could actually pull on the glassy slopers I commited to my first HVS lead! Left me being much bolder than I usually feel comfortable being! Some decent gear before the traverse, easy moves across the scoop if a little wobbly because getting pushed back by no handholds! Reached the end, put hand in pocket, and proceeded to try and pop in every piece of gear I could think of, ended up getting a ill fitting clog cam stuck in there, realised it had no camstops, put the same size of DMM in there (again ill fitting) and trying to block it in there by also shoving a red hex in there, probably would have held with a touch of luck! Can see the placement exploding oneday when someone takes a lob onto it! Tricky moves from here, moving up with left hand onto ledge and edging right hand into corner (nice finger hold in the crack) putting another cam in and going for the top! Felt very wobbly on the top mantle moves! Was buzzing! Dad fell as a second when moving up past the pocket and onto the ledge. Felt like I might be finally getting somewhere with this whole leading thing!
Accessed from Keep Arete. I had tried it several times during 2007, but failed. Eventually Stu led it instead...
|Adam Moroz||23/Sep/07||Lead β||
well i lead this after seconding, scoop direct, so can't claim the onsight. I also fell off the very first move when starting but then got striaght back on and flashed it.So i put clean with beta as it was a flash after a fall with previous knowledge of moves. All these styles of ascent get very confusing!
Heather and Mole
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||08/Jul/07||Lead O/S||
I found the crux to be getting stood up on the good ledge below the scoop itself after the initial hard moves. It is easy for the feet to slip on the polished holds here (Ian has seen 2 people in the last 12 months break their legs slipping on this move). A yellow Camalot in the "pond" hole was my only gear. Superb finishing moves - spectacluar, positive and well balanced. Ann spotted a wire / small friend placement near the top, but it is all over by then and better just to confidently push on through to what is a pretty positive finish. Another climb from my Wishlist ticked!
|Mark Collins||28/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
|joe larner||13/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|Laurence Everitt||05/Apr/07||Lead RP||
Top roped clean first and then got it on lead
|Mike W||03/Apr/07||Solo O/S|
|adam carless||01/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
Cold,windy and damp hence TR
|Col Allott||25/Jan/07||Solo O/S|
|Mr Wild||10/Nov/06||Lead O/S|
|endless winter||10/Sep/06||Lead O/S||
It went fine until I stuck my hand in the pond pocket...stuck a 5 hex in, went in fine, then pinged out and went sailing to the ground...remember a 6 hex...Getting to the left hand finish was a tad tricky, with me being very over balanced! Although I think I got there the hard way. Sorry, the 'good' way!
Link and Miserable_bird
|Chris Davids||30/May/06||Lead O/S||
|Jon Read||06/May/06||Lead rpt||
Awsome climb looks eaiser than it is
|Brian Rodgers||??/2006||Lead O/S|
|tom bre||02/Aug/05||Lead O/S||
1st HVS lead. Only took cams up route after looking at pic in Rockfax book (mistake) Camelot 3 fully open in pocket hole (umbrella position) scared and relieved to top out dont forget a large Hex or Large nut for this one. 5a boulder start ok just go for it!
|victim of mathematics||23/Jul/05||2nd RP|
|Jonny M||23/Jul/05||Lead β|
|The Mountain Goat||25/Jun/05||Lead O/S||
Mistakenly did the VS start.
|Chris the Tall||21/Jun/05||Lead||
|Phil West||18/Jun/05||Lead dnf||
Sketchy start, exciting traverse, delightful finish
|Si dH||08/May/05||Lead O/S||
From the arete start - VS 4c
I thought the top out on this was hard.
Classic Route in every sense. Well worth seeking out.
|jamie ward||25/Jun/04||Lead dnf||
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||02/May/04||Solo O/S|
Accompanied by trampolining nuns
|Chalky Cat||??/2004||2nd O/S|
A very memorable lead.
|Mark Riley||?/May/03||Lead O/S||
|John Eley||?/Aug/01||Lead O/S|
|Le Chevalier Mal Fet||?/Jul/97||Lead||
Led this clean then went back a couple of years later and fell off. I put it down to being a hot sticky evening.
Rob & Winnick
|Graham Booth||?/Jul/95||Lead O/S|
|Gordon Stainforth||16/Aug/94||2nd dnf||
|Andy Say||08/Sep/91||Solo O/S|