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|Staffordshire > Hen Cloud >
|Borstal Breakout|| E4 6b|
Final Crack >>
|30m, 2 pitches. A better route than Anaconda but it can suffer from being dirty. Pitch 1 is an excellent E4 6a. 1) 6a, 20m. A short crack leads to a ledge (possible belay). Continue up the crack to its termination then head right up another thinner crack. Hard moves above gain a pocket and then the ledge - a brilliant pitch. 2) 6b, 10m. Climb straight up as for Anaconda but move right up a crack to easier ground. © ROCKFAX|
FA. (Pitch 1) Jim Moran, (Pitch 2) Dave Jones (1 nut) 1978
Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush.
Photo: Jim Moran (L) on The Pinch and Simon Horrox (R) on the first ascent of Borstal Breakout, both 1978 © Al Evans
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.
Mr Wild - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with John McGuinness
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/09
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/07 with Tom Randall
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/05 with Eric Hildrew
dominic lee - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/05 with daniel lee
mark s - 2005
First pitch only. On Grimer's gear. See Staffs guidebook and Grimer's pictures for duff sequence!
Jon Read - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with Kate Cox & Grimer
shark - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/85 with Phill Dickens
Hidden - Lead - 1982
Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, sgl0jd, truckmonkey, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar