Staffordshire > Hen Cloud >
 
Encouragement*** E1 5b

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Jean The Bean >>
28m, 2 pitches. 1) 5b, 14m. Climb the wall on crisp crimps (spaced gear) to the base of an elegant groove. Bridge up this to a good stance. 2) 5b, 14m. The solid jamming crack leads all too soon (unless pumped senseless - 5c) to easy ground. Exit boldly left up the wall or escape out right to easy ground. © ROCKFAX
FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 89 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

LRob - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14

jwhereat - 2nd - 09/Aug/14

Huge sandbag. 1st pitch is steady and nice. 2nd pitch is nails. No way this should be E1 5b.
Longsufferingropeholder - 12/Jul/14

Hidden - 2014

1st Pitch Clean
leglesslizard - Lead dog - Sep/13

mark s - 2nd - 31/Aug/13 with andi t

Mike W - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/13

Awesome, technical first pitch, E1 5b in isolation. Got this clean (thank goodness - the gear was quite distant!) but then hung on a cam inches from the top of p2. A bit disappointed by this, but at least I get to come back to it. Benchmark Hen Cloud E1, I think.
Nick Russell - Lead dog - 07/Jul/13 with Simon

Seconded 1st pitch on-sight, 2nd pitch lead and got beasted around 4 falls and painful hands great gear though
bede.west - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/13 with stu

Led second pitch
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/13

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/13 with Tom Doldon

Chriswallis2 - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Jenny

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/May/13

Tamati - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13

Jonathan Hall - AltLd - 05/May/13 with Will Ward

Jenny Clarke - 2nd - May/13 with Chriswallis2

Coel Hellier - Lead - 20/Apr/13

Led P1, fell off seconding P2 due to terminal pump and cold hands. Gutted not to get it cleanly but it felt very hard!
climbingpixie - AltLd dog - 14/Oct/12 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hmmm, not as good as I wanted it to be...it's in Hard Rock so was expecting a mega-classic. Good climbing, but a large section at the top is VS, just one hard move on each pitch making it feel a bit disjointed
julesmckim - AltLd - 09/Sep/12 with Mickie Streule

second pitch
Mr Wild - Lead dog - 26/Aug/12

lead pitch 1 clean then tryed to lead pitch 2 and took a swinger!
timmyhobby - Lead dog - 05/Jul/12

R2B - 2nd - 05/Jul/12

Hidden - 2012

wolverine - Lead - 02/Oct/11 with Bryony Wethers

Bry - 2nd dog - 02/Oct/11 with Mike

Second both pitches
johnnyboulton - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with Simon Hills

John Mckeating - 2011

Top pitch felt very hard (I led the first - which felt E1 on it's own).
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Mike

I thought I was a solid E1 leader, I also thought I was OK at hand jamming, this climb showed me both were untrue. Led the climb as 1 pitch, no problem, but I fell out of the upper crux (where the jamming crack slants left). Just couldn't get the jam to stick. Great gear, definately E1 but maybe a 5c move I think.
al99 - Lead dog - 30/Aug/10 with Nick Record

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

First pitch only
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with J. Iles-Smith

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Fell off due to a foot slipping just as I got to the hard section of the jamming crack. Started again from the belay ledge and had to have a rest at the horizontal crimp just before the crack slants left. Need to get more proficient at jamming! The direct finish with lowish siderunners proved pretty scary. P1 was nice and steady.
Misha - Lead dog - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

ACE, could have done with the broken cam on my bedroom floor to propely protect the crux on the first pitch :o So was needlessly sligtly scared doing the crux. Led the 2nd pitch as well after phil failed to lead, thought it as quite easy by comparison maybe even 5a? (would have been too pumped to have done it all in one go though)
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Phil Baxter

Lead the whole thing in one long pitch. Got quite frustrated with bottom crux and nearly gave up, then on the 2nd pitch after placing a bomber wire half way up the crack and retreating for a rest, jammed like a mother fucker and topped it out in one push. Awesome
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Ebarnes - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09

Boy - Sep/09 with Ben Heason

Both pitches; a treat.
Jon Read - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Mark Sharrat & Andi Turner

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Jul/08

Cleanly led the first pitch- with desperate gear- need more small cams and micro nuts! Couldn't make the last pitch- me and Byron tried and failed, then faffed getting the gear! One to go back and lead
Twisty - Lead - 07/Jun/08 with Byron Buck

Byronius Maximus - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/08 with Alex Twist

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 31/May/08

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Rachel Hassall

Sean Kelly - 2008

middlevern - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Mike Blood

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/07

Toby Dunn - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/07 with Tom Randall

MONKEY78 - AltLd - 31/May/07 with adam ellwood

Rob Kennard - 2007

feilx - 2nd - 30/Jul/06 with Dan Barbour

Coel Hellier - AltLd - 05/Jul/06 with Pat

Hidden - AltLd dog - 24/Jun/06

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/06 with AJ

Lawrence Eccles - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/05 with A. Crook

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

mark s - 2005

Skell - Lead dog - 2005 with Steve

nickdonohue - 2nd - Nov/04 with Jim Barradale

Rich Kirby - AltLd rpt - 31/Oct/04 with Tom Briggs

cem - 2nd - 04/Sep/04 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd - 23/May/04

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/96

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jul/96

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jun/95

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 09/Jun/95 with Silvio Murgia

Marti999 - Lead - 1995

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 21/Jun/92 with Dad

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 20/Jun/92 with Pete Finklaire, David

Rich Kirby - 2nd - 14/Jun/92 with Paul Tanton

NickJH - 2nd O/S - Jun/91 with N Hancock

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 28/May/91

sadams - AltLd - 16/Sep/90 with Mark Bonham

Raggar - 2nd - 28/Jul/90 with Steve B

Roget - AltLd O/S - 06/May/90 with jim

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Sep/89

did pitch 2
David Smith - AltLd - Jul/86

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/85

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/82

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/81

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kim.mulji, gavinpeach, Gary Coggon, Bertbee, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ragnaar, Hidden, Hidden, Ralfy, Alan100, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 92
hard E20 of 31
E21 of 31
easy E20 of 31
hard E118 of 31
E112 of 31
easy E10 of 31
hard HVS0 of 31
HVS0 of 31
easy HVS0 of 31
hard 5c1 of 31
5c0 of 31
easy 5c13 of 31
hard 5b5 of 31
5b12 of 31
easy 5b0 of 31
hard 5a0 of 31
5a0 of 31
easy 5a0 of 31
3 Stars26 of 30
2 Stars4 of 30
1 Star0 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent

Lead33 of 89 (37.1%)
Followed16 of 89 (18.0%)
Alt Leads30 of 89 (33.7%)
Unknown10 of 89 (11.2%)

'Climbed'46 of 89 (51.7%)
clean O/S25 of 89 (28.1%)
clean rpt4 of 89 (4.5%)
dogged14 of 89 (15.7%)