Rockfax Description
10m. The crack widens gradually from finger locks to good hand-jams to plain awkward. The finish is wide and perplexing. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Pearson-Tanner Roaches Expedition.

Stanners 11/Oct Lead O/S

missed the bloody jug rail in the crack initially, no wonder it felt hard! Good bants this route.

with Giles
thrutch 03/Oct 2nd O/S
with Sven
Hidden 03/Oct Lead
dannyboy83 05/Sep Solo O/S
with Lena
hthom 11/Jul Lead
RobScarisbrick 11/Jul Lead dog
with Bernie
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 12/May Lead

Great climb. Warnings of no gear above 3m are incorrect. It's well protected with a normal rack although a friend 4(+) or two adds a bit more security.

DanChad 12/May 2nd RP
with Paul Deane, Chris Murray
andyclimber 22/Apr 2nd O/S
jonhowson 08/Apr 2nd O/S

Fantastic and not as much jamming as you might think looking at it.

with Pete, Chris
Nigel Bond 03/Oct/14 2nd
with Coel
Coel Hellier 03/Oct/14 Lead
brian watson 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 27/Jul/14 Lead

$b in my older Staffs guide actually approaching 5a a lot harder than Batchelors!

with Keith Lonsdale
Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

25 on Staffordshire nose. Climbed in mistake for Slimline. Tits.

with Nick
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

25/31. Climbed in mistake for Slimline. Bollocks. Thought it was implausibly easy for E1.

ADConway 13/Jun/14 Lead dog
snowfluke 13/Jun/14 2nd dnf
gavster 01/Jun/14 Lead
with ruth
Ruthie 01/Jun/14 2nd dog

Definitely coming back to this one after some first jamming practise! :)

with Gavin
gregoritos 21/May/14 Solo O/S

This is not an easy climb to solo! Very good though.

cem 05/May/14 Lead O/S
CrispsSmiths 05/May/14 2nd
with cem
sc4660 04/May/14 2nd dog

Tony fell on lead. Nut was wedged. Needed holding on rope to fight it out. Final climb of day. Hard work, needed a tight rope.

Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead
dan_blair87 03/Jul/13 2nd dog
dan_blair87 03/Jul/13 2nd RP
dan_blair87 03/Jul/13 2nd RP
bobpilgrem 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dennis
Hidden 04/Jun/13 Lead
sputnik 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mark
Chris Sansum 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Phil Gibson
gazfellows 06/Apr/13 AltLd

This is a vs with attitude. Should be 5a ??? Awsome crack/squirmy climbing tho !!!

with Billy
madasten 06/Apr/13 2nd

Bottled the lead about half-way up as I couldn't see any gear after the half-way point (it does exist, just very well hidden from below). Seconded Gaz up it instead and of course wished I hadn't been such a wuss as it's a great route!

with Nicola, Gaz
Hannes B 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
rob 528 ??/2013 Lead O/S

Loved it!

Nigel Bond 09/Oct/12 Lead
with Dave Dewhurst
Hidden 09/Oct/12 -
Batt 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Nice jamming at the bottom if a bit off balance. Horrible at the top!

spragglerocks 15/Sep/12 Lead dog

Epic and evil. Run out at the top.

Peakpdr 12/Aug/12 -

Rained half way up, the top was wet, green and slippy

Daymo 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Quality route. Gear up to about 3m, so a long way to the top before without any palcement

Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd
Dan Geh 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tgeh 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with dan geh
gingerwolf 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
mol 30/Jul/11 2nd

jamming and thuggery..

with Jesse
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Solo O/S
deklan 02/May/11 Lead
with chris, tristan
Peakology 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Starts too thin, ends up too wide. No gear at the top. Done at night with Dave onsight.

with Dave
keith leonard ??/2011 -
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead dnf
donkster 24/Oct/10 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
Andrew Sloan 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
al99 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
rod757 ?/Jul/10 Lead
thrutch 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with helen
andrea83 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Wouldn't like to have lead as it was another hand jammers heaven. Managed to avoid hand jamming apart from on first move or two.

with Buxton MC
Rob Davies ?/Jun/10 2nd
with Phil Ashton
miro 16/May/10 Lead O/S

good climb.did enjoy it...

Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Mr. K 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Was grateful to be carrying a Camalot #4 and a pink Tricam; made the route feel well protected. Found the crux to be the slippery fistjam section at mid-height, upper offwith was pretty straighforward. Great fun.

tmawer 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with kevin, John
Mr Wild 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
GrantB 21/Sep/08 Lead
with Phil Bailey
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd O/S
paul birch 31/Aug/08 -
Jim Slater 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
rob wmc 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Alan & Jim
Nick Rundall ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with John Cook
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
shoulders 09/Sep/07 Lead
rachelwheatcroft 02/Sep/07 2nd
with Marvino and Jamie
Toby Dunn 29/Aug/07 2nd
with Tom Randall
MaccMark 18/Aug/07 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
dan gibson 11/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
PanzerHanzler 19/Jul/07 2nd dog

Foot slipped from the wet funky crack near the bottom!

with Tom
DavidEvans 31/May/07 2nd
tlr 29/Apr/07 Lead
with Richard
Steve Banham ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Caralynh 08/Aug/06 2nd

much easier than it looks. lovely route

feilx 30/Jul/06 Solo
Hopevalleypaul 29/Jul/06 Lead dnf
with Gareth W
bigphil 15/Jul/06 2nd
with Toby & Calum
AJ007 24/Jun/06 2nd
with Brian
dan gibson 24/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with karing
doughboy_swiftandsure 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Never Again. Ever. Very scary, and couldn't find any pro after half way. Loads of muscle strain, cramp, and a grazed nose from wiggling up the crack! used a nut for a first bit of pro (6 foot up), and then two cams up to the half way point.

with Christos Haranzis (HOPS)
dan gibson 02/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Jon Read 25/May/06 Solo β
with Andi Turner & Mark Sharrat
victim of mathematics 07/Jul/05 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/05 Lead
eduardo ??/2005 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
donkster ?/Nov/04 2nd O/S
with trigg
MeMeMe ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hopevalleypaul 31/Jul/04 2nd
with Mike C
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
Budge 08/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Mike Oates
Hidden ??/2003 Solo
Gus ??/2003 Lead
Babika 12/Jul/02 Lead O/S

A moveable Friend 4 is helpful.....

with Diane Hall
MontyH 11/May/02 Lead
with Andy Lawrance
Hidden ?/May/02 2nd
MontyH 30/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
brady 01/Sep/96 2nd

a real thrutch

with John Cameron
Iain Thow 29/Aug/96 2nd
with Dave Walch
Dave Mountford ??/1996 Lead

rough date

with Damon Heath
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/95 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 17/Sep/94 2nd
stokienomad 16/Apr/94 Lead
Roget 15/Jul/92 Solo rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21/Jun/92 Lead
with Dad
Dave Musgrove 21/Jun/92 2nd
with David
Hidden 19/Apr/92 Solo rpt
Hidden 31/Jul/91 Lead
SimonN 28/Apr/91 Lead
Roget 02/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with colin
Hidden ??/1986 -
Nigel Coe 04/Apr/81 -
with Steve Portnoi
Mark Kemball ??/1980 2nd
RichardMc 30/Apr/77 Lead O/S
with Ed Heath
Dave Musgrove 23/May/76 -
mikej 17/Jun/70 Solo
with Stewart Grant
tapley 12/Oct/69 Lead O/S
with Derek Montford
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
hthom, mapperley samurai, nesbear, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 40
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set