20m. The upper half of the face right of the chimney is classy and intense. Runners in the gully and a second belayer away to the right should reduce the danger on the nasty sequence to gain the front face. From a good flake (runners) make one hard move using a mono and you're almost there - then just go!
The line on the topo in the guide is too low. It starts from the top of the big block. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
A superb 1970s gift from John Allen. From just above half-way up Rib Chimney (and a high side-runner in that route), a line of small pockets and flanges lead out an anxious position on the arête. A tricky move up gains a flake (don't pull too hard on it!) and some welcome gear. Now, make the crux move up using a small pocket to better holds, some uninspiring gear and an awkward and prolonged exit. The crucial flake is best treated with caution.
FA. John Allen 1976
Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.