Rockfax Description
28m. Another great route. Climb the steep bulging crack left of the arete on jams to a ledge, then continue by more jamming to a good stance on The Pulpit. Step back down, traverse left to the bulging crack and storm this by more glorious jamming. © Rockfax

FA. (pitch 2) Joe Brown 1952 (before this it finished up Great Chimney)

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out.

ColdAndWet 12/Oct Lead
JohnBotham 12/Oct 2nd

The most strenuous climb outdoors I can remember

thrutch 03/Oct AltLd
with Sven
Hidden 03/Oct Lead
StefanP ?/Oct 2nd
Andy Clarke 28/Sep Lead O/S

Magnificent - but quite a stern examination of ones jamming skills. Almost ran out of time working out my answer to the question posed by the first bulge! One pitch, LH finish.

Hidden 27/Sep 2nd O/S
mark4344 27/Sep Lead

v.tough at VS. hard jams

with Michel
Matthew Glenn 09/Sep Lead O/S
Rob Royle 30/Aug AltLd
with Gav
gavster 30/Aug AltLd

old route

planetmarshall 29/Aug Lead O/S

A Gritstone education.

with Ned
ned_85 29/Aug 2nd
gpcomps 11/Aug Lead dnf

Defeated by another crack on a VS. More tape and more practice required

with Mark L
Dan Vaj 12/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul Lead O/S
john_ni 11/Jul Lead O/S

certainly not a soft touch, lost some skin jamming. Left hand finish (in one pitch).

Bernie L 11/Jul Lead O/S
john max 11/Jul 2nd
hthom 11/Jul Lead
RobScarisbrick 11/Jul 2nd O/S
with Bernie
Peakphil 07/Jun Lead O/S

Original right hand finish into Chimney, save the left hand finish for Bachelors left hand on another day.

with Gill and Sparrow
James Oakes 26/May Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May 2nd O/S
with noaks
Coel Hellier 18/Apr Lead
jonnie3430 03/Apr Lead O/S
with Will, Henry
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
bullybones 02/Oct/14 Lead
with Neil
brian watson 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Andy Hardy 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Martin Bagshaw 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S

the leader decided to head to the chimney

with Ed Green, Chris CMC
Davidchatterton 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with heyhoot
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Matt Harmon 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
amccann 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Matt H
andybirtwistle 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Keith Lonsdale
soph 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 2nd

23/31. They're all merging into one now. I remember struggling to remove at least 3 cams?

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

23 on Staffordshire nose. Full body cramps.

with Nick
Paul Hy 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Dave L
soph 15/Jul/14 2nd
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
gregoritos 21/May/14 Solo O/S

Finished up the chimney, still a hard solo at vs though.

Andy Chubb 04/May/14 Lead

Tough to get started, and then moving up after the traverse. Good climb

with Steve Goodman
pipof747 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd O/S
WhipperSnapper 13/Apr/14 AltLd

Surprisingly brutal jams were exhausting.

with Maxie
soph 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Lindy Smith
gavster 09/Mar/14 TR
with rob
Rob Royle 09/Mar/14 2nd
with Gav
Hidden ??/2014 -
msoldn 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Nadin
rd20 20/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Chimney finish

with Kim
kim.mulji 20/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Hard jamming. Only lost a bit of skin. Tape gloves might have made first jam crack easier, though I found a good jam in the end. Led climb up to bottom of top crack. Too much rope drag (did I not extend on purpose?!), wind, lack of cams, dampness, and generally not liking the look of it, make me put in an belay. Partner didn't like the look of it either, and so led out up the original finish. I would have tried with more cams, but of course at that point, I was holding all the rope over my anchor ropes, and it would have been so much work to led out then, what a shame! ;-)

Hidden 05/Oct/13 -
StaffsAndy 01/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Lead to pulpit, both too knackered to finish. Lower-off didn't go as planned, got free helicopter ride.

egg-man 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with John Pickles
Climbster 31/Aug/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

What a route! Spot on pro and really nice moves all the way, always a pleasure never a chore!

with Matt
wishicud climbHVS 28/Aug/13 Lead

Really tough jammy start. Finished up great chimney which was actually quite fun. Quite a pumpy route.

Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
UnkArl 26/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Lee
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
quickdrawmcraw 13/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 21/Jun/13 AltLd

Lead excellent bottom pitch.

with Dennis
Hidden 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/13 -
ranga 01/Jun/13 2nd
vassy05 ?/Jun/13 -
Jonathan Hall 05/May/13 AltLd
with Ian Peachy
Anne Gumbley 05/May/13 2nd
with Phil Wadsworth
farmerwad 05/May/13 Lead
with S.O.C.
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Double Knee Bar 03/May/13 Lead O/S

With lh finish.

g1m147 28/Apr/13 2nd
with Mick.
fatbuoybazza 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hannes B 04/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 03/Apr/13 2nd O/S
mchonofsky 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Feb/13 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
saffy ??/2013 Lead O/S
sputnik 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Right hand start

with Mrs Z
MichaelGallimore 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Three stars. Loved this climb. Jammy. Met a rambling club at the top who were scrutinising my belay anchors.

Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead

Number nine of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose

with Andy R
Darrell Read 01/Sep/12 Lead
Peter Metcalfe 19/Aug/12 AltLd
with Steve Lunt
demarcation86 27/Jul/12 AltLd dog

Dogged like a muppet. Need more jamming practice.

with Paul
Dan Geh 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
tgeh 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with dan geh
Rich Kirby 12/Jul/12 2nd
with Ruth
Hidden 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
stuaart 04/Jun/12 2nd
with Neil Redgrave
TimKnight 26/May/12 2nd
Joemanglerocks 26/May/12 Lead
with Emily Venables
Ross.Cooper 26/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
yarrow 26/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Done in two pitches (awful belay on the pulpit!)

Killianmurphy 15/Jan/12 2nd
with Matt reynolds
Don Jebus 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S

alternative top section up great chimney due to being a wuss and punting on hand jams...

with James
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Jan/12 2nd
alan moore ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bevan
bigdrew 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
mark20 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Joey C 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Tom Redmond 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

really good climb, great to practice jamming so much, a good fight!

with joe
marcoleptic 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Did original finish up Great Chimney

with max
tim.fairhall 18/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
Allan FW 03/Sep/11 AltLd

We did this in 2 pitches. Ken led up the first part and across to under the final crack. Not easy, this. I made use of Ken's shoulder to start the final crack and found the final moves "challenging".

with Ken
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Steve Lenartowicz 02/Aug/11 Lead
with Clare
mol 31/Jul/11 2nd

jamtastic..hard getting over the initial bulge

with Jesse
Johnny B Diggerman 27/Jul/11 Lead RP

Did this as a last climb of the evening and what a climb! Jamming all the way, few holds, no foot holds, need lots of cams. I almost burnt myself out on the first jam and fell on my gear with exhaustion! Got into the swing of it and struggled my way to the top. A real workout.

with Dan L
stronglikebear 27/Jul/11 2nd
Laurence Everitt 09/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Mark D 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Green, Laurence Everitt
Mike Tutt 28/May/11 Lead
SteveM 22/Apr/11 Lead
with Kat
kitkat78 22/Apr/11 2nd β

After downclimbing from first few moves on lead.

with SteveM
p_won ?/Apr/11 Lead

Went up with no cams so got scared and finished up the chimney

with johnny walker
Tala M 24/Mar/11 AltLd dog

Lead first pitch with one rest on the gear. Planned to do it as two pitches and finish up Bachelor's Left-Hand but found it too hard so did original finish from pulpit onto Great Chimney instead. It's a lot harder than the grade would suggest and you have to be good at jamming!

payeo20 24/Mar/11 AltLd

Fun day! Instead of doing in one pitch we decided tala would do first pitch and I would do the top half. This didn't happen. Hilarity ensued, and three pitches later (pffft)we got to the top of the easier original finish!

with Tala M
Peakology 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Just first pitch cuz top one was Kermit and it was pitch black. Swore a fair bit.

with Dave
Hidden ??/2011 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
hcooper 16/Oct/10 2nd

Took lots of jamming skills - which I didn't have!

JdotP 16/Oct/10 Lead dog

All went well until the final wide jamming bit right at the top. I got this on my 3rd attempt, it is reassuring to see people's comments on here that it is hard for the grade...

with Hereward Cooper
lostinmidlands 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Led it and seconded it afterwards to clean the gear.

with troelsS
hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Some polish at the start

JRae 01/Aug/10 2nd
with Oli H
Oliver Houston 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
rod757 ?/Jul/10 Lead
LittleClimbingMaria 29/Jun/10 -
jon_gill1 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S

this was a great route but felt very hard at VS, you really need to know how to jam well on this 1!

with ian, big Si
Andy Hardy 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Batt 15/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

P2 up great chimney. J decided to do the 'original' (?) finish which heads towards great chimney then discovered there was a birds nest behind a ledge so we split it into 2 pitches to stop the rope running over them!! Must go back and do it properly!

matt.jj 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Enjoyed the route. Nice warm up for the weekend.

Spidermunkie 04/Jun/10 Lead dnf

Retreated 3/4 of the way up....... dont know why, head just went...............

Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 Lead

Great VS, lovely jams.

simozzer 16/May/10 2nd dnf

bailed out rough onto the chimney

with Cass, Matt
rocklobster 16/May/10 Lead dnf

Led to pulpit, but finished via easy chimney, rather than the scary crack.

with Cass, Simon
Pown 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Pete Graham 15/May/10 2nd
djking1983 10/Apr/10 2nd
Bram 10/Apr/10 Lead
Joris.Roulleau 03/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Ok that's the start of th season, but god that felt hard! I guess it wasn't my day. I took a rest on a nut in the first crack and thought "bollocks, I can't believe I'm dogging a VS". I then traversed to the top left crack and spent ages placing a nut, because of the 2 cams I could have used, I placed one earlier, and dropped the second. Once more or less satisfied with my nut placement, I went for the move, came off, my nut popped out and I tipped upside down before swinging to the right when my next piece of gear in the right-hand crack caught me. I haven't fallen off a 4c for years. This felt desperate. I think I need some jamming advice.

with Seth Redmond
GF ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
sgl0jd ??/2010 -
dannyboy83 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Did the left hand finish up Bachelor's Left-hand, hard for VS, Unexpected nice lead after Darren didn't like the jaming and down climbed.

shed_hed 26/Sep/09 Lead dnf
shed_hed 26/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/09 Lead
Noodles30 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Irn Bruce 02/Aug/09 Lead dog

Hairy, took a couple of falls and struggled with the climb throughout. My first experience with crack climb though and my lack of jamming experience was evident. Need to learn to jam before attempting this again!

jonka ?/Aug/09 2nd
with sean
Dave Rumney 18/Jul/09 2nd
with Tanya Milner
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Neil Henson 23/Jun/09 2nd

A tough little number! No escaping the jams on this one.

with Graham Robinson
Steve Waters, Mynydd 16/Jun/09 Lead

Superb - I managed to preserve my cams for the final crack.

Hidden 21/Apr/09 Lead dnf
popov86 15/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Dinger 05/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Tried the left hand finish. Down climbed to half way and then lowered off.

with Martin Heaton
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
richardhopton 16/Nov/08 Lead O/S

This is a hard climb, great gear though but so have lots of other HVS. I climbed the Rivelin needle last week (HVS)and found this a lot harder. VS seems a bit weak....

AndyM-LVB 16/Nov/08 2nd β

Great route, BUT NOT VS!

ClaireS 12/Oct/08 2nd

With painfull left hand finish

Hidden 21/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
hellboundblr 22/Jun/08 AltLd

Me P1 to pulpit, Adrian P2 up great chimney.

with Adrian Goldstraw
Pete Horn 31/May/08 -
with Gerard
cem 31/May/08 2nd
with Mark O'Neill
Jim Slater 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S

Quality climb.

Hidden 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
jeffb 26/Apr/08 2nd
with andy c
@ndy 26/Apr/08 Lead
rob wmc 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S


with Alan & Jim
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead
dan gibson 11/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
PanzerHanzler 19/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Tom
jasonpm 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Dave, Dave.
towdman 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Adam Armitage
Darragh ?/May/07 -


Hidden ??/2007 Lead
rachelwheatcroft 14/Nov/06 2nd
with Marvino
Hidden 06/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Caralynh 08/Aug/06 2nd

A few hard moves, but I was shattered by the time we got to this. nice route though

AJ007 24/Jun/06 2nd
with Brian
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with keith leonard
dan gibson 02/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Hidden 01/Jun/06 2nd O/S
orb 05/May/06 Lead O/S
with Mojo
Stig 19/Jul/05 2nd O/S
with Jonathan Teale
OffshoreAndy 29/May/05 2nd
with Steve Mount
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 -
Danhan 09/Sep/04 Lead
with Steve
MeMeMe ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Si dH ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Kane Chandler
jimshrimp 31/Jul/04 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/04 Solo rpt
r0b 09/Apr/04 2nd
with Mark Humphries
Mark A Humphries 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Rob Harper
Alaric 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S

Bothered by a wasp whilst belaying. It seemed to like walking on my shirt.

with Isabel B
IanGilbertJones 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 15/Jun/03 2nd
with Nige Shaw
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/03 Lead
Blod 28/Sep/02 Lead rpt

With the chimney finish.

five 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with JT, TW
Goody 13/Aug/02 2nd O/S
with Dave Checkley
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/02 Lead
chrishedgehog 25/Mar/02 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Alastair Hudson 13/Jan/02 Lead
with Bob Smith
Brian Rodgers ??/2001 Lead
with Emma Jones
MontyH 21/Oct/00 AltLd O/S
with Andy Lawrance
smudge 28/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Pete Ramshaw
bullybones ??/2000 -

Chimney finish

Hidden ??/1999 -
Dom Whillans ??/1999 -
Hidden 15/Mar/98 Lead O/S
barney@helmshore 28/Sep/97 2nd
with simon
stokienomad 11/Jul/97 Lead
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/Apr/97 Lead
Iain Thow 29/Aug/96 Lead
with Dave Walch
brady ??/1996 2nd
with John Cameron
Dave Mountford ??/1996 -

rough date

with Damon Heath
Rog Wilko ?/Sep/95 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
colin milton 14/May/95 2nd
with eric milton
Hidden ?/Jul/94 TR
WB ??/1992 -
steve prior ?/Jun/91 Lead
with Paul L
Raggar 28/Jul/90 Lead
with Clare M, Steve B
Roget 22/May/90 Solo O/S
Rob Davies ??/1990 2nd
with Mick Moss
Hidden 08/Jun/86 Lead
Ian Archer 05/Apr/86 2nd O/S
with Tony Green
Nigel Bond 03/Nov/85 Lead
with Bryn Roberts
Hidden 04/Jun/85 AltLd
Hidden 23/Mar/85 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/84 2nd
Nigel Bond 14/Apr/84 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Babika 10/Jul/83 2nd
with Mark Jones
RichardMc 09/May/80 Lead
with Jim Fisher
Nigel Bond 23/Feb/80 Lead
with Mark Dixon
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hammy 09/Jul/79 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Chris Terrey ?/May/78 Lead
with Ken Taylor
babymoac 26/Jun/77 2nd
with SWH
Mark Kemball 04/Jun/77 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
RichardMc 30/Apr/77 Solo
rogerskews ??/1976 -
with John Blackburn
mikej 17/Jun/70 Solo
with Stewart Grant
tapley 12/Oct/69 Lead O/S
with Derek Montford
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
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Votes cast 71
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
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Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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