The Milky Bar Kid* 8a

Rockfax Description
A link-up that takes in the crux moves of three lines. Start just right of the large block as for Prisoner of Conscience.
Climb the lower wall moving right to the crux of Bullworker and finally move right to finish as for El Chocco. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
A link up of the start (crux) of Prisoner of Conscience, the middle (crux) of Bullworker, and finish (crux) of El Chocco make for a sustained route!

Finishing up the rest of Bullworker instead of moving right to the finish of El Chocco makes a good f7c+ link-up. (FA. Dave Pickford/Ally Smith, 2007)

Chris Savage 2010

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Top 10 hard Bristol Ticks, West Country projects, South West 8's.

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This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Figure out the beta on the top section.
quiffhanger - Lead dnf - 11/Jan/15 with Adam Ryan

First route of 2015! Second go, defo hard for 8a...
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead RP - 02/Jan/15 with Charlotte Warner

Good fun climbing!
JM - Lead RP - 20/Dec/14 with Stevo

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Dec/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Oct/14

Best route at Brean
James Marshall - Lead RP - 05/Oct/14 with sash

Ricky Rocks - Lead dog - 04/Sep/14 with James Marshall

In the words of guy xavier percival, BOOM! amazing route and first 8a.
holister - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14 with ant, pete, andy

1st Redpoint 2day, not been on it for nearly a year
peaches69 - Lead RP - 17/Apr/14 with luke

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/Nov/13

Tough moves all the way up. Right pain in the arse to strip, I dont think I will be coming back to make it my first 8a.
archiecb - Lead dog - 14/Sep/13 with Pete Wycislik

1st red point
Howard Lawledge - Lead RP - 18/Mar/13 with Adam

Hidden - Lead RP - Mar/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Feb/13

pezzerrr - Lead RP - 19/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Feb/13

2nd go, dropped the mantle of El Chocco putting the draws in. Such a good finish to a route.
westyb3 - Lead RP - 20/May/12 with Matt Cox

1st RP, Long move to get into the top of 'El Chocco'. Awesome link up.
_m.cox_ - Lead RP - 13/May/12 with Robyn Nelson

Hidden - Lead dog - 05/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Feb/12

finally redpointed in brilliant conditions. Freezing cold everywhere apart from right under the crag at brean.
Ged Desforges - 2012

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Jan/11

Very good route. Good 7c+ if you do the normal bullworker finish. A different proposition altogether to finish up el chocco! puts it at proper proper 8a
Ged Desforges - 2011

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Nick Russell, brices, chakrit, Ramon Marin, cha1n, Justin T, derico, quiffhanger, fezzi, Mike Goldthorp, Dandan82, Goonie

Total votes cast 23
hard 8a+0 of 12
8a+0 of 12
easy 8a+1 of 12
hard 8a6 of 12
8a4 of 12
easy 8a1 of 12
hard 7c+0 of 12
7c+0 of 12
easy 7c+0 of 12
3 Stars8 of 11
2 Stars3 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Clean RP