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Cornwall > Carn Gowla >
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| America |  E4 5c |
Adjacent Climbs
<< Ratcliffe Highway |
Guernica >> |
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![[Top pitch of America, 2 kb]](http://i.ukc2.com/t/145358.jpg) A towering, adventurous route that combines diverse climbing with a serious situation. Dry conditions are essential. The base is reached via abseil or, in calm sea conditions, at low tide via a sea-level traverse. Start on sea level ledges at the left edge of the lower wall below a corner. Photo on page 177..
1) 5b, 26m. Climb leftwards, easy but serious, to an old peg on the left. Traverse right two metres and climb a short, bold wall to reach the safety of a niche. Follow the awkward, wide crack above to its end at a stance and spike belay..
2) 5b, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Move up the slab to where it starts to steepen and move left towards its edge. Climb up and pass a blanker section on the right, to reach a dodgy flake. Move left, back towards the arete, and follow the slab to a stance below the upper buttress..
3) 5c, 25m. Climb up a groove on the left and enter a corner above it. Move up a short way and traverse the steep wall on the right, around an arete, to a steep corner that is climbed to a ledge and a large bird's nest. Move left and climb very steep ground to a ledge. Follow the thin crack above it to the top. © ROCKFAX
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.
Photo: Top pitch of America © James Strongman
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.
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This climb is in 14 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.
Brown - AltLd - 06/Sep/12 with Andy R
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11
joined ropes not needed, it is possible to abseil to the top of the first pitch off the stakes at the top.
mwatson - Lead O/S - 2011
Gulp inducing abseil in! See photo.
jfletcher - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with James Strongman
JulesV - Lead O/S - 2009
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06
tuftynick - AltLd O/S - 2005 with rich cross
Hidden - AltLd - 2005
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/96
same day as guernica. original approach.
frank ramsay - AltLd - 14/Jul/90
An amazing climb, one of my favourite climbing memories
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 1988 with Wendy Sampson
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden - 1980
Hidden - 1980
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Will Cat, colin harvey, Hidden, simon.white.1000, Ian Jones, Rowansb, Dan Lane, philhilo, tonanf |
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