Rockfax Description
A towering, adventurous route that combines diverse climbing with a serious situation. Dry conditions are essential. The base is reached via abseil or, in calm sea conditions, at low tide via a sea-level traverse. Start on sea level ledges at the left edge of the lower wall below a corner.
1) 5b, 26m. Climb leftwards, easy but serious, to an old peg on the left. Traverse right two metres and climb a short, bold wall to reach the safety of a niche. Follow the awkward, wide crack above to its end at a stance and spike belay.
2) 5b, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Move up the slab to where it starts to steepen and move left towards its edge. Climb up and pass a blanker section on the right, to reach a dodgy flake. Move left, back towards the arete, and follow the slab to a stance below the upper buttress.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb up a groove on the left and enter a corner above it. Move up a short way and traverse the steep wall on the right, around an arete, to a steep corner that is climbed to a ledge and a large bird's nest. Move left and climb very steep ground to a ledge. Follow the thin crack above it to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

ferdia 11/Jul/15 2nd

top 2 pitches only due to tides. should have brought wellies to be able to wallow more fulsomely in the bird shit. scary top pitch even on second!

with Howard, Pete
Joughton 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Never been so scared on a route in my life. Felt very out there moving up the arÍte a long way from my gear cluster. Second pitch is also rather bold.

Hidden 03/Jul/14 -
tim newton 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

lead all 3 pitches, abseil approach. The final pitch is just brilliant. Climbed in the evening sun and belayed on top totally satisfied as the sun set.

markalmack 27/May/14 AltLd O/S

got shat on while on the mega run-out second pitch. Good effort by jimmy on the top pitch. not sure im into this "adventure" climbing.

with james marjot
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead O/S

Led all 3 pitches. A grand day out.

with Colin
Brown 06/Sep/12 AltLd
with Andy R
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
mwatson ??/2011 Lead O/S

joined ropes not needed, it is possible to abseil to the top of the first pitch off the stakes at the top.

jfletcher 24/May/10 AltLd O/S

Gulp inducing abseil in! See photo.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Sam Underhill
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
tuftynick ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 23/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Alan Holden
frank ramsay 14/Jul/90 AltLd

same day as guernica. original approach.

ecowaller ??/1988 Lead O/S

An amazing climb, one of my favourite climbing memories

with Wendy Sampson
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden 11/Aug/78 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Avon Man, LJC, WilliamD, quiffhanger, Nick Russell, Motown, colin harvey, Hidden, s.c.white, Ian Jones, Rowansb, Dan Lane, philhilo, tonanf
High E5
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Votes cast 6
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Votes cast 5
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Alt Leads
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