America*** E4 5c
[Top pitch of America, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A towering, adventurous route that combines diverse climbing with a serious situation. Dry conditions are essential. The base is reached via abseil or, in calm sea conditions, at low tide via a sea-level traverse. Start on sea level ledges at the left edge of the lower wall below a corner.
1) 5b, 26m. Climb leftwards, easy but serious, to an old peg on the left. Traverse right two metres and climb a short, bold wall to reach the safety of a niche. Follow the awkward, wide crack above to its end at a stance and spike belay.
2) 5b, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Move up the slab to where it starts to steepen and move left towards its edge. Climb up and pass a blanker section on the right, to reach a dodgy flake. Move left, back towards the arete, and follow the slab to a stance below the upper buttress.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb up a groove on the left and enter a corner above it. Move up a short way and traverse the steep wall on the right, around an arete, to a steep corner that is climbed to a ledge and a large bird's nest. Move left and climb very steep ground to a ledge. Follow the thin crack above it to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Photo: Top pitch of America © James Strongman
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

top 2 pitches only due to tides. should have brought wellies to be able to wallow more fulsomely in the bird shit. scary top pitch even on second!
ferdia - 2nd - 11/Jul/15 with Howard, Pete

Never been so scared on a route in my life. Felt very out there moving up the arÍte a long way from my gear cluster. Second pitch is also rather bold.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14

Hidden - 03/Jul/14

lead all 3 pitches, abseil approach. The final pitch is just brilliant. Climbed in the evening sun and belayed on top totally satisfied as the sun set.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/14 with jon stewart

got shat on while on the mega run-out second pitch. Good effort by jimmy on the top pitch. not sure im into this "adventure" climbing.
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 27/May/14 with james marjot

Led all 3 pitches. A grand day out.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2014 with Colin

Brown - AltLd - 06/Sep/12 with Andy R

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/11

joined ropes not needed, it is possible to abseil to the top of the first pitch off the stakes at the top.
mwatson - Lead O/S - 2011

Gulp inducing abseil in! See photo.
jfletcher - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with James Strongman

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Sam Underhill

JulesV - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/06

tuftynick - AltLd O/S - 2005 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/96

mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

same day as guernica. original approach.
frank ramsay - AltLd - 14/Jul/90

An amazing climb, one of my favourite climbing memories
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 1988 with Wendy Sampson

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Avon Man, LJC, WilliamD, quiffhanger, Nick Russell, Motown, colin harvey, s.c.white, Ian Jones, Rowansb, Dan Lane, philhilo, tonanf

Total votes cast 13
hard E50 of 5
E50 of 5
easy E50 of 5
hard E41 of 5
E42 of 5
easy E42 of 5
hard E30 of 5
E30 of 5
easy E30 of 5
hard 6a0 of 4
6a0 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
hard 5c0 of 4
5c3 of 4
easy 5c1 of 4
hard 5b0 of 4
5b0 of 4
easy 5b0 of 4
3 Stars4 of 4
2 Stars0 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S