An awe-inspiring route whose main pitch climbs the central section of the severely-overhanging upper buttress. Start as for pitch 1 of America; or at the stance at the top of its first pitch if the tide or sea conditions do not allow access to the base.1) 5b, 26m. Pitch 1 of America.2) 5c, 20m. Move rightwards and climb up the slab to meet the corner formed with the steep upper buttress. Climb the slab to the left of the corner and continue to a stance at a crack on the left side of a large block.3) 6a, 20m. Move up the slab for 3m and climb the wall to a flat handhold. Traverse right to a large block on the edge of an overhang and ascend a thin crack and shallow groove above to a peg and a shake-out on the right. Committing moves up the overhanging wall leftwards lead to flake holds that are traversed steeply right to a large sloping ledge and belay.4) 5b, 15m. Move steeply left to a huge niche. From here, traverse left until it is possible to gain a corner above that leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs.
Photo: Looking back up the Ab rope towards Guernica and 1492!! © John Fletcher
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