|800m, 30 pitches. |
A classic route and certainly one of the most popular on the Marmolada. The lower section in particular provides enjoyable and varied climbing on superb rock with excellent gear throughout. Many of the stances are equipped, allowing for an abseil retreat if required. The upper section of the route is considerably easier but is often shunned for one of the possible variants, Messner Direct being the most popular. The upper section can be icy early and late in the season.
From Rifugio O.Falier, ascend path 610 towards Passo Ombretta. Where the path levels out, abandon the path and follow a climbers' track right towards the base of the face, then contour along the base to reach a prominent red chimney. Begin at a deep red chimney which slants right to left on the right side (east) of the face.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the chimney both by bridging and using the left wall then continue up the corner above to reach a niche.
2) V+, 35m. Climb a corner, move left then come back right where the corner broadens to form a chimney.
3) IV+, 30m. Step left and follow a chimney, then climb a crack on the left wall to a stance on a pulpit.
4) V, 40m. Climb a steep face to an overhang, then overcome this either on the left or the right (same grade) before following a steep open corner to a small niche.
5) V+, 35m. Climb a crack then continue into a cracked corner.
6) VI+, 50m. Continue up the corner to a roof. Move right around this then follow the continuation corner diagonally left to a stance left of some prominent roofs.
7) V+, 30m. Step left then climb direct through a series of small roofs. Traverse left above these to a good stance.
8) IV, 25m. Climb a short corner then move more easily left up a slab to reach a large open corner.
9) V+, 40m. Climb the corner from left to right, keeping to the right side, then exit left at the top to a gully below a small roof.
10) V+, 50m. Climb the gully then exit left below a roof which closes it. Continue over a series of small ledges moving left to reach a good stance.
11) IV, 30m. Traverse easily left up a slab to a stance below a narrow chimney.
12) IV, 30m. Climb the chimney (ignoring the chimney on the right) then exit left to a grooved slab.
13) V, 20m. Climb the water-worn slab to a stance at the base of a prominent chimney.
14) VI-, 50m. Climb the chimney to a small ledge on the right.
15) IV, 50m. Continue in the chimney which now slants left to a stance below a large roof.
16) III+, 30m. Follow the chimney for a further few metres to a niche then exit left to reach the half-way ledge.
There are a number of good bivouac spots on either side of the exit to the ledge, with water 50m to the left.
17) 100m. Traverse the ledge right to reach a long and easy gully, slanting right, just left of a series of caves.
18) III, 50m. Climb the gully easily from left to right.
19) IV, 50m. Continue in the same line.
20) IV, 45m. Follow the gully then exit direct to a roof. Move left around this to reach the southeast arete of Punta Rocca.
21) III. 45m. Enter a large damp gully and follow this easily to a stance below a roof.
22) IV+, 40m. Continue in the same line, overcoming the roof on its left and continue in the gully.
23) III, 35m. Climb the gully as far as a prominent fork. Belay below a small overhang.
24) IV, 45m. Ignore the right-hand gully (Stenico Variant) and climb the left-hand one that becomes a long deep chimney.
25) V, 40m. Follow the same line to a narrow section.
26) IV+, 50m. Pass through this bottleneck and continue up the chimney to a stance below a leftwards-slanting gully.
27) III, 45m. Climb this gully to a good stance.
28) II, 50m. Move easily left to a stance below the summit.
29) I, 50m. Continue easily left to the top.
Descent - From the summit of Punta Rocca, descend a short rocky section on the northeast side to reach the snowy plateau of the glacier. Follow the snow ridge east to reach the Punta Rocca cable car station. Either take the cable car back to Malga Ciapela, or alternatively descend the ski piste northeast (be aware of possible crevasses on the glacier, particularly later in the season), keeping right to reach a service track. Follow this back to Passo Fedaia. © ROCKFAX
vinatzer/ castiglioni 2-3 september 1936- reinhold messner 16-17 august 1969
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/13
Well, where do I start! Got to the route and a pair of experienced Italians were gearing up for the original start. Damn. So, race to pitch 4 via the alternative start (which can be recommended) and we got ahead. Made it to the ledge in about 5 hours which should have helped us get to the cable car on time... Just the Messner Variation left to complete to do...
P.S. Apologies to the Italians for the odd stone fall!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Neil Adams
With Messner finish. Brilliant route with excellent, varied climbing. Route-finding easy up to the ledge then a bit more problematic after that, meaning we missed the last bin down.
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/12 with Ally F
impressive climb. The lower grade pitches are not really easy. Fantastic day out !
michaelja - AltLd - 05/Sep/10
superb!! climbed it in within 12 hrs,
Niekolaas - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Michael
Super cool! Thanks Niek for leading the Messner slab.
michaelja - Sep/10 with Niek
fantastic route, unfortunatly made it within a 100 meters of the summit but then got off route, after two pitches with no gear the sun began to set and we decided to abseil off to the half way ledge and spent a cold night there with no bivvy gear. the next morning we woke up in the cloud so we werent able to continue and abbed the rest of the line. 33 hours hut to hut with 3 sandwiches and a bar of chocolate!!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd dnf - 07/Jul/10 with henward
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with eddie church
JulesV, sparkass, peaker16, thomaspomfrett, AlanLittle