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USER ATTENTION

3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.

A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.

from 03/03/0023

Rockfax Description
Although unlikely to become a popular route in its current incarnation, the line remains one of the West Country's most audacious - crossing the Vault Wall from left to right. Start at a right-trending ramp left of the central gash of The Vault itself.
1) 4c, 24m. Climb the ramp and move up a small corner at its top before traversing left to the end of the overhang above. Move up to a belay on the slab.
2) 5c, 20m. Ascend to the right-hand corner of the slab, move right and up through the overhang to a stance and belay.
3) 5b, 50m. Traverse into the massive corner on the right (The Vault). Climb up a short distance and then move right onto a small slab. Follow the slab right to a big flake and ascend this to a ledge, go right to a thin crack and take this to the finishing slabs. Follow the slabs rightwards to finish at the abseil point. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The protection peg has gone and the suggested grade is now E4.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , South West in Extremis

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Logged Ascents

14 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Carn Gowla

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Break On Through

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)

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