USER ATTENTION
3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.
A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.
from 03/03/0023
Rockfax Description
Although unlikely to become a popular route in its current incarnation, the line remains one of the West Country's most audacious - crossing the Vault Wall from left to right. Start at a right-trending ramp left of the central gash of The Vault itself.
1) 4c, 24m. Climb the ramp and move up a small corner at its top before traversing left to the end of the overhang above. Move up to a belay on the slab.
2) 5c, 20m. Ascend to the right-hand corner of the slab, move right and up through the overhang to a stance and belay.
3) 5b, 50m. Traverse into the massive corner on the right (The Vault). Climb up a short distance and then move right onto a small slab. Follow the slab right to a big flake and ascend this to a ledge, go right to a thin crack and take this to the finishing slabs. Follow the slabs rightwards to finish at the abseil point. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The protection peg has gone and the suggested grade is now E4.
West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E4 5c ***
(Lower Sharpnose Point)