18m.

Rockfax Description
A classic, up an awesome line on decent holds for the most part. Low-(ish) in the grade. Start direct (Dance Direction) to the break, the original came from the left. Pull away to a poor rest below the final roof then crank this to the top. Either reverse and lower off from the last bolt or scratch up the slope to a tree. © Rockfax

FFA. Tim Freeman 1984. Led with one rest by Dominic Lee in 1980 FA. (as Nemesis) Graham West, Barry Roberts 1959 FA. (Dance Direction) Steve Earnshaw, Mark Shearer 1990

Ticklists: Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, 28 Decent Sport Routes, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.


ClimberDateStyle
Ed Booth 23/Aug Lead RP

Onsighted to top and was feeling around the lip but had gone a bit to far as I wasn't sure where it finished so was more towards Free Monster. reversed back to the rest but the flash pump ensued. Went fine next go. Few wet holds in the middle.

Adam Booth 23/Aug Lead RP

1st rp

raymondlinklater 08/Aug Lead dog
Hidden 08/Aug Lead RP
Laurence Everitt 08/Aug Lead dog
Hidden 08/Aug Lead RP
Steve Hickie 03/Aug Lead β
with Haydn jones
Jim pratt ??/2016 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead RP
R2B 25/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Cherry
remus 03/Oct/15 Lead G/U

Tickled the jug first go then easy second go. Guess like everyone else.

MarleyE 27/Sep/15 -
JackMac 19/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Very strenuous mini roof climbing.

with Russ
Luke Dawson 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Mike Adams
Adam Long 26/Aug/15 Lead β

x2

with Gus Hudgins
Gus 26/Aug/15 Lead
with adam long
James Oswald 26/Aug/15 Lead RP

Great route, did it 3rd session. 1st session I fell in the middle section. 2nd session I made a mistake at the top (moving from a heel to a toe too early). This session I got it 2nd go. 1st go - I fell off going for the final gaston after I got my hands wrong and hung around for too long. Then I spent 5 attempts falling off the slab, finally got it after that. Ace route, really thuggy.

with Gus
Jack.H.92 23/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Ben Martyn
spidermonkey09 20/Aug/15 Lead RP

Yes! First 7b+. After falling three times from top move two days before, changed the sequence and got it first go. Awesome climbing and a mega line.

philipegwyther 18/Aug/15 Lead RP

2nd go

penny.orr 13/Aug/15 Lead RP

This might be soft if you're good at steep climbing, but I found it pretty hard to finish off! Glad to finally take the victory lob (though I certainly didn't top out and then jump... I'm obviously not 'ard enough).

Matt Cooke 13/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Rosh
rosh3000 13/Aug/15 Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 11/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Couple of laps: one to warm up and one to warm down

penny.orr 11/Aug/15 Lead dog

Agh - really thought this was the day! Fell trying to match the finishing hold.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 04/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Fitness lap post Free Monster dogging session

penny.orr 04/Aug/15 Lead dog

Fell off the last move 3 times! It's pretty hard to work the last move as it's above the chains. Still, I'll definitely get it next time.

DaveAGiles 02/Aug/15 Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 01/Aug/15 Lead RP

So good I climbed it twice

penny.orr 01/Aug/15 Lead dog

The top move is very hard, but maybe I'm just not very fit on steep routes?

Duncan Campbell 28/Jul/15 Lead dog

Wah. Had a couple of goes to work the moves then had two good red points with my best effort tickling the final hold before taking a massive whipper. Last red point was a bit of a shambles. Find this thing hard! Though the weekend probably didn't help.

nathanlee 28/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Retroflash, really enjoyable

with Laura Smitton
MischaHY 25/Jul/15 Lead β

Excellent route, very pleased with the flash. Probably a bit soft for the grade, but who cares when the climbing is this good?

DaveAGiles 25/Jul/15 Lead dog
jamesgodwin64 19/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Really enjoyed this route got to the last bolts before the big jump but couldnt work out nor have energy to work out the top bit properly so didnt finish. Will add this to the list of things to come back too for sure.

with John Cooper
danJBA 14/Jul/15 Lead dnf
with Mike
DaveAGiles 08/Jul/15 Lead dog
Sarah Pashley ?/Jul/15 Lead RP
Jackwd 30/Jun/15 Lead dog

A work in progress, all the moves done, linked the roof section. Just need to get the crux slab sorted.

with K Dawg Chan Man
Hidden 23/Jun/15 Lead dog
stp ??/2015 -
Harry Chaplin ??/2015 Lead G/U

Second go. Excellent.

FloTilley ??/2015 Lead RP
with Sarah Pashley
Nick1812P 02/Oct/14 Lead RP

fell off last move on flash attempt, got it second go.

with Calum, Ben
dannyboy83 02/Oct/14 Lead RP
Dale Comley ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Tophe 30/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 27/Sep/14 -
Duncan Campbell 16/Sep/14 Lead dog

Put the clips in onsighting the lower wall (stickclipped 2nd bolt). Fell going for the big jug by the penultimate bolt, dogged to the top. Then climbed very badly on my redpoint goes falling off initial wall due to forgetting sequence, then on final redpoint go fell in top break moving right. Quite a cool route though...

with Mason
Alex Mason 16/Sep/14 Lead β

Did try this once about 10 years ago but inverted on bottom slab and got fierce rope burn. Felt good today. Good beta from dunkie. Great fun.

Gus 14/Sep/14 Lead
with Billy the Kid, ben rouse
BillyRidal 24/Aug/14 Lead β
masonwoods101 03/Aug/14 Sent β

Flash

Hidden ?/Aug/14 Lead RP
Rachel Slater 23/Jul/14 Lead dog

Not too difficult but I'm feeling weak after trad-walking for the last few months!

Haydn Jones 07/Jul/14 Lead β

so good I did it twice

with ted kingsnorth
jfreeman 06/Jul/14 Lead β
with Nic Duboust
BenNorman 03/Jul/14 Lead RP

First real go today, felt much fitter, good route

NDD 02/Jul/14 Lead
with ben norman
BenNorman 01/Jul/14 Lead dog

Fell off last move on 4th burn, no route fitness so a harsh intro back into routes

w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/14 -

Took a few tries! physical stuff, inspired by its neighbours.

with ben
The old James turnbull 30/Jun/14 Lead

2 laps as cant do anything wise here!

with dave brown
Matt Broadhurst 26/Jun/14 Lead RP

Awesome, the direct start is certainly worth doing adding one of the cruxes to the route, varied slab into a beefy overhang, technically and physically cool route. (Was only just clean enough to do).

with Pete M
Joe Lawson ??/2014 Lead β
blaza1 ??/2014 Lead RP

Retro-flash

with Mark Richardson
oliver.ghill91 10/Sep/13 Lead RP

1st run

with theo
Hidden 23/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Stig 23/Jul/13 Lead dog

Did all the moves but felt really tired.

with Simon
Jonny Slarke 19/Jul/13 Lead RP
Si dH 18/Jul/13 Lead RP

2nd rp, fell right at the top on first attempt after a bolt to bolt. Brilliant route.

with Chris Foster
Chi Cheng 12/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Dogged to put the draws in, Got it clean 2nd go. Still a very fun route

with Michelle Murray
Hidden 07/Jul/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead
Dave Mayes 05/Jul/13 -

Would've gone third go if the top hadn't been soaking!

gcarmichael 02/Jul/13 Lead β

Great route, pretty pumped near top!

Si dH 12/May/13 Lead dog

Did all the moves twice bolt-to-bolt.

with Neil Furniss
Ethan 11/May/13 Lead
with Don Walker
Hidden 02/May/13 Lead RP
mark20 02/May/13 Lead RP

2nd go - should have flashed it. Qual.

J.Wells 02/May/13 Lead RP
PeteHarrisonmustbebanned ?/May/13 Lead β

Flashed

peteharrison06 ?/May/13 Lead β

flash

Hidden 24/Apr/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead dog
mic_b 29/Sep/11 Lead RP

1st RP

with Phil
i_a_coops 25/Sep/11 Lead RP
with Jacob
Chris_barr 24/Sep/11 Lead RP
with Dan
Dan Jenkin 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Adam Long 30/Aug/11 Lead RP

Quick dog to get the clips on then 1st RP

with Si Wilson, Neil 'Nige' Kershaw
JulesV 28/Aug/11 Lead rpt
will smith11 31/Jul/11 Lead β
with Daf
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Lead dog
Matt Reid 28/Jul/11 Lead RP
Chi Cheng 28/Jul/11 Lead rpt

Warm up climb.

with Mike Borg-Costanzi, Matthew Reid
Rich Kirby 26/Jul/11 Lead β

Amazing "euro" styli route. Nice for the Peak:-) Warmed up & down at Rubicon. Ant put the draws in.

with Ant
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Chi Cheng 23/Jul/11 Lead dog

got the last move and held the finger stack wrong and came off going to the finishing jug.

with Mike Borg-Costanzi
Chi Cheng 08/Jul/11 Lead RP

Borg put the QDs in for me. Got it 1st attempt of the session. so 2nd RP attempt over all.

with Mike Borg-Costanzi
nathanlee 05/Jul/11 Lead RP

2nd RP. Top route - soft and strenny.

with Dom Lee
dominic lee 03/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead dog
Chi Cheng 29/Jun/11 Lead dog

Amazing fun climb, dogged at every clip. Worked the moves. 1st RP attept i got to the last bolt and fell doing the moves out right and over the lip.

with Mike Borg-Costanzi
Joe Costello 23/Jun/11 Lead RP

Serious fun!

with Liam
highrepute 16/Jun/11 Lead RP
steve_yo 21/May/11 Lead β
with smacks
Stefan Gallagher 21/May/11 Lead RP
Dave Musgrove Jnr 08/May/11 Lead β
Hidden 07/May/11 Lead RP
Fraser13 ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
Mark Riley 11/Sep/10 Lead β
JM 19/Aug/10 Lead β
with Holger Moeller, Dave Pinnington
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead β
Hidden 30/Jul/10 Lead dog
nai 28/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Joe
jowgli 23/Jul/10 Lead RP
with nai
Hidden 21/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
Somerset swede basher 09/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Rob Meckin
dominic lee 08/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Lead RP
dav 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

generous at 7b+.

with Si Davis
Hidden 01/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jun/10 TR dog
Lex Wilkinson 23/Jun/10 Lead RP
Cassius 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Brown 17/Jun/10 Lead RP
with Jon B
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead RP
TomPR ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 31/May/10 TR dog
Hidden 25/May/10 Lead RP
gregoritos 22/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead
Hidden 14/May/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/May/10 Lead dog
Dave Bond 03/May/10 Lead rpt

retro flash

with Simon Wren
andy gravestock 06/Jul/09 Lead RP

went today in the rain should ahve gone for the onsite as it was piss easy really. went up put the clips in come down did again clean then redpointed exellent route though good finshing move.

with allex
Matt Fry 26/Jun/09 Lead RP

2nd go, wet crux.

with Alex Blaza
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Lead β
lx 24/May/08 Lead β
with rob
Hidden 15/May/08 Lead O/S
jondude 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
Toby Dunn ??/2008 -
Gus ?/Jul/07 Lead β
with simon "the horse" wilson, andi elizabeth turner
willackers ??/2007 Lead RP
with Dan Walker
Jake Shaw ??/2007 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 09/Sep/06 Lead RP
with Alex
Hidden 16/Aug/06 Lead RP
jamiev 05/Aug/06 Lead RP

climbed ordinary way which is 7b. Also did the new 7a+/7b at the left, approximately where Thatcher Years went. Very good.

with stone and kristian
Hidden 17/Jul/06 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S

More like F7b.

with Nic Sellers
Dave Bond 22/Jun/06 Lead RP
Hidden 07/Jun/06 Lead RP
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
oldcheese ??/2002 -
Hidden 26/Jun/01 Lead O/S
kristian ??/2000 Lead O/S
Billg 03/Sep/98 Lead RP
with Phil McAllistair
mikedelderfield 07/Aug/97 Lead RP
sadams 15/Aug/96 Lead RP
with Richard Cooper
ste_d 25/Jul/94 Lead RP
Stoney Boy 05/Aug/93 Lead RP
ukb shark 14/Jul/92 Lead RP
Alan James - UKC and UKH 14/Sep/91 Lead
with Paul Dearden
Mike Owen 13/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 23/Jun/90 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/89 Lead RP
36 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set