Greater Manchester > Dovestones Edge >
 
Nasal Buttress*** HS 4b

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[Me and Mrs Groovejunkie - Topping out at Dovestones, 2 kb]16m. Climb the steep arete with the nose being passed on the left. FA. George Bower early 1920s © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK..

Photo: Me and Mrs Groovejunkie - Topping out at Dovestones © C. Griffith
View all 6 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 170 logbooks, and on 22 wishlists.

Nigel Bond - 2nd - 22/May/13 with Bern Hardman

Stefan Trebicki - Lead - 06/May/13 with John Martin, Matthew Cunningham

jimartin - 2nd - 06/May/13 with Stefan Trebicki

bantamdave - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Murray

classic and juggy. cool route
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/12

Hoyes - 2nd O/S - 29/May/12 with Julian L

Barry D - Lead - 29/May/12 with Juan

Nice route with good moves round the nose. Belay at the top is not great.
markblair - 2nd O/S - 26/May/12 with Alison Dixon

Legionreturns - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12

Nice route. A little tricky to arrange the belay.
Richard Alderton - Lead - 24/May/12 with Tom_, Chris

BenedictIEP - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Vicky Jennings

vix - 2nd rpt - 23/May/12 with Ben, Jonny

Fun to try again.
Alex Thompson - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Liz

Nice climbing, few hairy moments when I thought I was going to loose my grip. Last leg up to finish took me a while, ended up pulling myself up on stomach to finish.
Liz Peel - 2nd dog - 23/May/12

Very nice - not quite 3 stars
Julian Lane - Lead O/S - May/12 with Mynydd James

Stefan Trebicki - 2nd - 31/Mar/12 with Liam Brady

Bob Windsor - 2nd - 01/Oct/11 with Rick Graham

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Jul/11

Excellent stuff. Bold finish.
steveth - 2nd β - 27/Jun/11 with Jon Bray, Chris Roberts

JonBray - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/11

t8t9t8 - 19/Jun/11

slacky - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Andes, Ben

augustus trout - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Colin Maddison

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/11

Jayzen - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Ashley

paul79 - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/11

Hardonicus - 2nd - 11/May/11 with vix

J25 - 2nd - 11/May/11 with Vicky Jennings, Hardonicus

vix - Lead O/S - 11/May/11 with Haydn

The Blue Bucket - May/11

greglad - 09/Apr/11

Dave Franklin - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

stimpey - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Pete, Davina

petegunn - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Davina & Steve

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Jay

Jay C - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Clay C

Rog Wilko - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with Debbie Wilkinson

Very green - would be lovely otherwise
Rob84 - 2nd dog - 18/Jul/10 with Rich

kjbix - Lead - 30/Jun/10 with Gary Caswell

ruggystunts - 2nd - 30/Jun/10 with Kev

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/10

wil_perry - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Barney

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd β - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10

stratandrew - 2nd - 02/Jun/10

tried to lead it, got as far as the nose then had to retreat as i was unable to do the move up. Tried it on 2nd, tried it miles's way, then finally found a better, easier way. Top out was hard too
ayuplass - 2nd RP - 31/May/10 with miles

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/10

jelaby - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with CoffeePot

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10

Barry D - Lead - 22/May/10 with Jobo

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/10

ste_d - Solo rpt - 24/Apr/10

john.gaffney - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Ed Arnett

Hard near the thin crack. Really had to trust some friction holds! Good route though. Brought Jenny up on second.
hcooper - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Jennifer Slack

Jen80 - 2nd - 11/Apr/10 with Cooper

Hidden - 2010

reubensampson - 2nd - 17/Oct/09 with Dan Peers

jonka - Oct/09 with gareth

peggy_on_the_rocks - 2nd - 20/Sep/09 with Raho

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Darren McMaster

shed_hed - 2nd - 13/Sep/09 with Graeme Hammond

matthewjames - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Alan Saul

Good effort to Matt, looked like he enjoyed himself on this one! Brilliant climb!
Reaver2k - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/09 with Matt Marshall

Lisaaargh - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/09 with Mike Watson

Nice lead by Al, VERY nice route with some tricky moves at the thin crack.
embob - 2nd - 09/Aug/09 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 09/Aug/09

petegruf - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with blaithin h

Awesome route with great exposure and a nice, technical crux. Interesting top-out too!
graphiclunarkid - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with arctic jen

arctic_jen - 2nd - 08/Aug/09 with Rich

cem - 2nd rpt - 08/Aug/09 with John Evans

Great route. Lots of gear and some superb positions.
barney800 - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/09 with Katherine Shaw

ste_d - Solo rpt - 28/Jun/09

ste_d - Solo rpt - 16/Jun/09

Richie Rich - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Nick M

Cold! Found it quite hard as I could hardly feel my fingers. Good moves and well protected - excellent!
Howard J - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Elli Mauser

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/09

Goody - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/09 with Margaret Bowyer

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/09

doogstrue - TR - 31/May/09 with phil & andy

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/09

will6459 - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Andy Hext

snakebite - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Paul Shephard

Kaiser999 - Lead - May/09 with Andy Farrimond

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/09

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/09

wheelo - 2nd - 02/Apr/09 with foggy

jcurley - 2nd rpt - 02/Apr/09 with Colin Milton

colin milton - Lead - 02/Apr/09 with joe curly

Hidden - 20/Sep/08

morrisdaboss - Lead β - 20/Sep/08 with Steve B

alun1111 - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08

john lynch - Lead - 04/Jul/08 with mike lynch

johnwilson123 - Jul/08 with paul

ste_d - Solo rpt - 08/Jun/08

Great exposure, perfectly protected and a classic climb
addersb - Lead - 02/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/08

Hidden - Solo rpt - 10/May/08

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/08

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/08

Worth the stars. Belay at the top is a pig to set up.
Chris Lyon - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08 with Tom Whitehead

Mancunianimport - 2008

daveagriff - Lead - 2008

nmoysey - Lead - 2008 with Ben Vickers

Stuart Wildman - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Rob Sykes

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/07

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/07

jcurley - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/07 with Harry

jcurley - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/07 with Harry

Matthallinan - Lead - Jul/07 with Nicky Winn

Great climb! Looks green but it was dry. Wasn't sure where to start, ended up doing it side on, then reading the guidebook which says take the arete direct I went back at the end of the climb and did that into my previous climb and downclimbed off to cover all my options :P Wasn't exactly sure where I should be all the way up, but opted for on the wall most of the time, erring towards the arete! Wonderful! Great protection, a few "interesting" moves on slopers and nice positions, especially if you take the time to look out! Everything went perfectly on this lead for once, and not once did I get into a tussle on any of the moves. The final arete is finely positioned and feels exposed although having gear close-by! Found the belay abit of a problem, ended up balancing on a (BIG) chock down the chimney on the other side of the buttress and placing a thread and a wire, and making sure I sat in a position where I wouldnt get pulled round the arete and fall 20ft down the other side! I will be back to repeat with my Dad I am sure and look forward to it!
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Matt Marshall

J25 - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Alex Thompson

Alex Thompson - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Jonny

david morse - 2nd - 02/Jun/07 with james collingwood

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/07

featuresforfeet - Solo O/S - 26/May/07

alj - Lead - 26/May/07 with CJD

mje1398 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/07 with John M

Matt - BodyPoint - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Andrew Wood

MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Simon

Duncan I - Lead - 01/Oct/06 with Steve Pardoe

Green start, one sketchy move, but fantastic positions on the arete, justly a classic
Steve Pardoe - 2nd - 01/Oct/06 with Duncan Irving

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Sep/06

alicia - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Matt K

Daves first big lead
dread-i - 2nd - 11/Jun/06 with dave m.

cem - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/06 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/06

shoulderbreaker - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/06 with Leanne Buxton

nigelw - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with I Higgins

Hidden - Nov/05

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Jul/05

my first HS lead
SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - May/05 with Philip

John Marsland - Lead - 04/Sep/04 with Stefan Beyer

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Aug/04

Cake - Lead - 02/Aug/04 with Matt

Toreador - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/04 with Carmen

Si dH - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with Kane Chandler

shaun walby - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/03 with Chris Tan

Gman - Lead O/S - Aug/03 with James

malc - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/03 with Paul S

Toreador - Lead O/S - 31/May/03 with Carmen

Laramadness - 2nd β - 12/Sep/02 with CEB

A classic 3 star route. (Should be able to lead) as there is good protection. One to come back to.
Owdham - TR O/S - 19/Aug/02 with Girtch

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - May/02 with Laura

Hidden - Solo - 05/Aug/00

D Berry - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/00 with Claire Berry

Neil Conway - 2nd O/S - 1998 with Steve Hardy

Phil West - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/97 with Steve Wild

barney@helmshore - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/96 with mark b

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 09/Jul/95

Gordon Stainforth - 2nd - 09/Jul/95 with Steve Dean, Viv Stainforth

Roget - Solo O/S - 01/Jul/95

ChrisJD - Lead - 03/Oct/93 with CraigH

craig h - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/93 with Chris D

ste_d - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/91 with mik

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/91

craig h - Solo O/S - 23/May/91

Pete Pozman - Lead O/S - Nov/90 with John Byrne

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/90

Done before. Also with Margaret 19.7.1994
David Smith - Solo - May/90

Tom V - 1967

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, sting, Hidden, Stefan Trebicki, thedatastream, Hidden, teamrob, Hidden, Hidden, RamblingRyan, vix, alitamlit, Chewie, Owdham, Dan Lane, Conor1, Hidden, An Triubhas, gazbonutter, bluebrad, eonuk, LAW

Voting
Total votes cast 89
hard VS0 of 30
VS0 of 30
easy VS0 of 30
hard HS6 of 30
HS22 of 30
easy HS2 of 30
hard S0 of 30
S0 of 30
easy S0 of 30
hard 4c0 of 28
4c0 of 28
easy 4c0 of 28
hard 4b15 of 28
4b11 of 28
easy 4b2 of 28
hard 4a0 of 28
4a0 of 28
easy 4a0 of 28
3 Stars23 of 31
2 Stars7 of 31
1 Star1 of 31
0 Stars0 of 31
Bag of .....0 of 31
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Style of ascent

Soloed13 of 170 (7.6%)
Lead83 of 170 (48.8%)
Followed62 of 170 (36.5%)
Toproped2 of 170 (1.2%)
Unknown10 of 170 (5.9%)

'Climbed'71 of 170 (41.8%)
clean O/S74 of 170 (43.5%)
clean β5 of 170 (2.9%)
clean rpt17 of 170 (10.0%)
clean RP1 of 170 (0.6%)
dogged2 of 170 (1.2%)