Rockfax Description
12m. The classic crack splitting the centre of the buttress eases with height. You can jam it if you want! © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

stratandrew 27/Sep/15 2nd
with Dan O'Brien
dan_o_b 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Duncan Zerafa 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Dan O'Brien
Hidden 24/Aug/15 Lead
payeo20 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Alex W
Alex Whittaker 15/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
john max 08/Aug/15 Lead
with Becky E
Becky E 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Simonfarfaraway 25/Jul/15 Lead
with Cliff Brown
Shaw Brown 25/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 23/Jul/15 2nd
bryce.dorin 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
db79 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
BnB 12/Jun/15 -
Brown 27/May/15 Solo
with Stu
ChrisVickers 27/May/15 Lead O/S
Stuart Howard 27/May/15 2nd
stratandrew 13/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dave Wylie
CKegan 13/May/15 2nd dog

Fell twice unfortunately, think I tried to rush it a bit. MVS in guide book.

with Stevie
Hidden 02/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/15 2nd O/S
lloydrees91 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with caiti
sus 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jimbonfire 24/Aug/14 -
Luke Jones 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Will, LMC
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
timjones 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Simonj 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with tim jones
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
jakebrown 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Rob84 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Pidg
K Mckay 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Paul Gibbison
pog100 05/May/14 2nd
with Cath Walton, Gilly Markham
PeteWilson 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

easy, pleasant and balancy, really good route!

with Bob
snapperdan 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
karlb 26/Aug/13 2nd dog

We did this route thinking it was answer crack - Doh - no wonder it was hard!

chrisgaynon69 26/Aug/13 Lead
with karl bamford
blackholesun 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
rockman 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
timcedwards 14/Aug/13 2nd
Dan Mckinlay ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
rfdl100 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Rikki
Montecore 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Lizzimore
Siobhan McGowan 20/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
bwestwood 15/Jul/13 Lead
BruceW 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Becca
Darron 07/Jul/13 -
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Legionreturns ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd
Joe.Elliott1 08/Jun/13 Lead
jorge1983 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Andy Hardy 29/May/12 2nd
David Kay 29/May/12 2nd
JEP 29/May/12 Lead O/S
Hoyes 29/May/12 2nd O/S
markblair 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Nice delicate moves at the bottom and eases considerable higher up.

with Alison Dixon
BenedictIEP 23/May/12 2nd O/S
vix 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Ben, Jonny
Jules Lane ?/May/12 Lead O/S

Lovely route.

Steve J P 21/Aug/11 2nd
with BW
Bernie Wylde 21/Aug/11 Lead
with sp
Sam Simpson 03/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
five 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with AV
mattmu 11/May/11 2nd O/S
grubes 11/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice Route low crux. Low in the grade imo

with chloe, Emma Casey, Matthias, Tom Stapleton
Tom Stapleton 11/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
Dave Franklin 05/Sep/10 2nd rpt
stimpey 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Pete, Davina
petegunn 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Davina & Steve
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
vincentchopper 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Clay C 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jay
Jay C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Clay C
Rog Wilko 25/Jul/10 Lead
with Rachel Barton
climbing_goose 07/Jul/10 TR O/S
with mark whitmarsh
Alex Thompson 06/Jul/10 Solo rpt

Called Layback not Jam Crack for a reason...

Hidden 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 05/Jun/10 2nd
with Phil Ashton
ayuplass 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with miles
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
john.gaffney 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Ed Arnett
reubensampson 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Peers
peggy_on_the_rocks 20/Sep/09 2nd
with Raho
Graeme Hammond 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
shed_hed 13/Sep/09 2nd
Simonj 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
heidavey 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb! Reckon the grade is spot on.

with Susi
red.stiletto 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with heidavey
Pero 15/Aug/09 Lead
embob 09/Aug/09 2nd

Lovely! Speed climbed due to the descent of midges.

with Alex
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead
petegruf 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with blaithin h
cem 08/Aug/09 Lead rpt
with John Evans
ste_d 28/Jun/09 Solo rpt
ste_d 16/Jun/09 Solo rpt
Richie Rich 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick M
Rob Jarratt 09/Jun/09 Lead
with Andy Crawley, Julie Hardie
Hidden 09/Jun/09 2nd
Goody 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Margaret Bowyer
Hidden 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tanssop 31/May/09 Lead O/S

Lovely climbing

with Andy & Paul
doogstrue 31/May/09 TR
with phil & andy
SteWatkins ?/May/09 -
ste_d 26/Apr/09 Solo rpt
jcurley 02/Apr/09 2nd rpt
colin milton 02/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/08 -
johnwilson123 ?/Jul/08 -
with paul
Matthallinan 10/Jun/08 Solo
OffshoreAndy 10/Jun/08 2nd
with UKC Alex
Alex Thompson 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
stuckonarock 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Matthew
ste_d 08/Jun/08 Solo rpt
godusty 06/Jun/08 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
nmoysey ??/2008 Lead
with Ben Vickers
rbalmer 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Chris Owen
Stuart Wildman 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Sykes
jcurley 09/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Harry
Ian Parnell ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Jon Winter
Reaver2k 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Another brilliant climb I've had on my list since I first visited Dovestones. Found the moves into the cave thing a little difficult for 4b, spent quite some time trying to work out a sequence. In the end I pulled on a odd sidepull, facing away from me on my left and a sidepull in the crack and trying to find some purchase for my feet (couldn't find alot) then reaching for the sloper/jug and sorting myself out - 4c? After that I placed a couple of pieces of protection and proceded to get the (wrong?) sequence on the laybacking, with lots of foot switching awkward positions, I am sure if I repeated and thought about it abit better it wouldnt feelt that bad! Abit like Stanages Heaven crack only a sharper flaring edge! Yummy. Went up the final arete after aswell, bit of an anti-climax so I downclimbed so I could make a better belay.

Barry D 05/Jun/07 Lead
with George
mje1398 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John M
MeMeMe 11/Mar/07 2nd
with Andy
Duncan I 01/Oct/06 Lead
with Steve Pardoe
Steve Pardoe 01/Oct/06 2nd

Excellent, nice finger-lock at top of wall, final arete sensational

alicia 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Jamie
duncana 12/Aug/06 Lead

Nice climbing.

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 29/Jun/06 2nd
cem 11/Jun/06 2nd
Si dH 07/Aug/05 2nd rpt
with Gerhard
lithos 13/Jul/05 Solo
Phil West 07/Aug/04 2nd rpt
with Wingnut
Carl Smethurst 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Gareth Mayhead
Si dH ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Kane Chandler
Hidden 24/Apr/04 Lead
Michael Brown 10/Aug/03 Lead O/S
shaun walby 01/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Phil West
jimshrimp 11/Jul/03 2nd
malc 01/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Paul S
Simon Caldwell 31/May/03 Lead O/S
with Carmen
Howard J 01/Aug/00 2nd
with Jeff Burgum
Martin Bennett 01/Jul/98 -
with MT
Blod 16/May/98 Lead O/S
with Julie W
Phil West 10/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Steve Wild
barney@helmshore 13/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with helen bonner
Roget 01/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 12/May/94 -
with Barry Hurst
StevePr ??/1994 -
with Alan
craig h 23/May/91 Solo O/S
Andy Say 30/Sep/89 Lead O/S
Pete Pozman 03/May/84 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 20/Jun/82 Solo
Hidden 02/Oct/73 Lead
Tom V ??/1967 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, ClimbMad, Richard Alderton, Hidden, vix, Chewie, gazbonutter
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 35
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set