Journey to Ixtlan** HVS 4c
[On our way to Ixtlan, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A very spectacular and exposed traverse of the Triple Buttress that has the benefit of being non-tidal and a good distance above the sea at all times. However, the situations are serious and the rock needs careful handling with regard to both the climbing and the setting up of belays. Take plenty of slings for tying-off bollards, spikes and threads. Start above a ramp on the landward side of the descent to the top of C Buttress. Photo on page 165..
1) 22m. Downclimb the easy ramp to a ledge and belay..
2) 4c, 21m. Move down the ramp for a further 5m then climb leftwards up the wall until level with the belay. Move up again before traversing left steeply to the arete and a belay just beyond..
3) 4c, 20m. Step down and move across grooves to a corner. Descend the wall left to an exposed stance and belay on the arete..
4) 4c, 40m. A wild-looking pitch for both leader and second. Traverse into the corner and traverse left across its opposite wall above an overhang to an arete. Move up the arete for 6m to a stance and belay..
5) 4c, 25m. Move up and climb leftwards to reach and climb a diagonal line across the wall until steeper moves lead to a position just before a big corner. Finish straight up via the left-hand side of a block. Stake belay. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs.

Photo: On our way to Ixtlan © Alex the Alex
View all 12 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 24 wishlists.

Lead P1 & 3, in a lot of swell. Got to the P3 belay, but couldn't find any gear, and it looked like it'd been hit by a wave pretty recently, so gave it a miss. We'll be back.
JoeCoxson - AltLd dnf - 15/May/15 with Luke Gorman

If you are following the Rockfax description of how to find the climb, you need to turn down at the second bench, not the first from the car-park. The scree is obvious, go down and right (as looking out) to find the start of the climb. You can use a stake a few metres up from the start of the climb as a belay. Led pitches 1, 3, and 5. Spectacular climbing, and you wonder how you manage it, but the climbing is never more than 4c, and protection is there, but needs finding sometimes! Take a few slings for tying off, threading, etc. Pitch 5 was much harder than the others though, harder to protect, more overhanging, and damp! Serious rope-drag on that pitch as well, though not sure how I could have improved things much. Found a nut protection and thread at top for my belay after that last pitch, and finally managed to bring up my second after lots of tough rope-hauling.
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Ian Cramman

Superb climb through amazing rock scenery. Led Pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 5 wet and greasy and generally a bit unpleasant and intimidating but still well furnished with holds.
oscaig - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Kim Mulji

Matthew Robinson - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Will

Improvised Exit due to Alex belaying the wrong side of the last arete.
Robin Woodward - Lead - Jun/13

Amazing location and a great line. At times some likeness to frost-icing. The last pitch seemed a little hard to navigate?
Alex the Alex - AltLd - Jun/13

Fantastic climb, a real adventure. Rockfax 1st and 3rd belays a few metres out but stances are fairly obvious. Couple of rusted pegs still there but not in great condition and we couldn't find the final steak belay at the top. Very atmospheric with big seas, exposed belays and a little bit of looseness!
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with Will

Lead first, third and final pitch. Complete exposure all the way in incredible surroundings. The final pitch was exciting - heading into a dark corner on increasingly steep and occasionally loose rock. No belay stake so used dubious rocks. Brilliant route.
Motown - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/13 with Luke

stephen ashworth - AltLd - 20/Oct/12 with martin clarke

lead 2@5 belay stake missing
martin clarke - AltLd - 20/Oct/12 with steve ashworth

Lead P2 and P4. Was a good route lots of lose rock had to be very careful with the footing! Got a bit lost on P2 but eventually found a reasonable belay ledge in about the right place! P4 was much more straight forward to a huge belay ledge. Over all was a good climb but lots of lose rock beware!
samfayers - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Dunton

Pitches 1,3,5
georgedunton - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/12 with Sam Fayers

Davebryant - AltLd - 19/Mar/12 with Sam Hann

sam.hann - AltLd - 19/Mar/12 with Davebryant

JevonJennings - AltLd - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

Mmmm, atmospheric! Surprisingly amenable climbing on unsettling rock in an exciting situation.
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11

Johnny Baker - 2011

Scrambled P1, did variations on P2, 3 (lead), 4, 5(lead). P5 was pretty interesting with wet and suspect rock to a belay including a small rounded lump of rock, a small nut and a clump of heather! Not quite HVS this way i don't think...
Matt Fry - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Bobby Gilbert

Bobby Gilbert - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/10 with Matt Fry

JerryD - AltLd - 17/Oct/10

loose and fun. mega climb
Jacob k-d - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10

An awesome multi pitch traverse. Very committing on rock with dose not instill you with confidence. Each pitch has its own feature to process and overcome. Macca lead the first, third and fourth pitches. I lead the second. We spent 5 hours doing it with waves crashing against the bottom of the cliff. Very intimidating.
Legs - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/10 with Tim

rob1 - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/09 with Dave Williams

I led this on one of the dry days in the great BBQ summer of 2009. Check out this for our take on a great adventure
Johnny Baker - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Matt Ellis

Hidden - AltLd - 13/May/08

Led p 3 & 5. Topped out as it was getting dark. Used rabbit holes for belay as I couldn't find anything else
cem - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with Graham Dolman

Absolutely superb; real 'out there' positions, weird looking but sound rock
nickdonohue - AltLd - 20/Nov/99 with Mark McCarthy

colin milton - AltLd - 30/Apr/95 with eric milton

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom McCabe, Cheese Monkey, chrisweight, Graham H, Jules Lane, andy dunn, SurferStan, Reds, Skip, johnpr, Dave89, althesin, Dilwat, Alan100, Sankey, nickstephens, Ropeboy, richardr, Pylon King Against Capit@lism

Total votes cast 45
hard E10 of 15
E10 of 15
easy E10 of 15
hard HVS4 of 15
HVS11 of 15
easy HVS0 of 15
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VS0 of 15
easy VS0 of 15
hard 5a0 of 15
5a0 of 15
easy 5a0 of 15
hard 4c4 of 15
4c7 of 15
easy 4c4 of 15
hard 4b0 of 15
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3 Stars11 of 15
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S