Rockfax Description
22m. A moorland classic. Climb the steep wall to a ledge then the crack and bulges above. Step left to a thin crack then climb this and the scooped wall above on sloping holds. © Rockfax

FA. John Loy 1966

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors).

cem 08/Aug Lead O/S
Pero 08/Aug 2nd
jamesturnbull 10/Jul 2nd
with adam brown
gavinpeach 28/Jun 2nd rpt
with Max Pendleton
gavinpeach 04/May Lead O/S

Brilliant climb. Probably deserves E1. Well protected but with interesting varied climbing throughout. Crux is the hand traverse out left.

with Hellen
Hidden 09/Aug/14 2nd
Stuart Hurworth 26/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Pretty hard moves off the ground over the first block, then comes the crack! I couldn't get up it - has excellent holds in the back of it, but then you get stuck without anything on the feet! I think once you have pulled yourself a bit higher and get into a layback position then its a goer. Gave it several attempts but couldn't get established. Looks like an excellent climb though - the leader placed about five bits of gear in the 'scary' top section!

with Manchester Climbing Club
Mike W ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BTphonehome 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Bram
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
xphoenix0 10/Oct/12 2nd
with John M
Jim Slater 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Jim
Mowglee 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with John Puddephatt
johnpuddephatt 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S


Will Hunt 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Sam Cooke 26/May/12 Lead O/S

As it gets E1 in the latest Western Grit so I'm claiming it as my first extreme lead!

stevetheleg 26/May/12 2nd O/S
with Sam Cooke
timmyhobby 15/Oct/11 Lead
tatz45 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
JRae 02/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd
tmawer 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with andrea
joese7en 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S

good climb, traverse left straight after the first crux crack

Graeme Hammond 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant!! The scrappy looking lower section actually has some very nice lay-back moves. The final wall ace but isn't nearly as rounded or scary as the guide makes out, there is even solid gear in it (well if I hadn't used it lower down).

with Rob
Ketu 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
gazfellows 14/Jul/08 2nd
with shaun d
Hidden ??/2008 -
bullwinkle 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with John
Tim W 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Sanderson, Janna Trevorrow
Hidden 17/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Si dH 01/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Brilliant Route, but hard!

with Neil Furniss
chrishedgehog 04/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Mark Gill
chris sm ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Urgles ?/Oct/01 Lead
with Fiend
Hidden 16/Jul/00 Lead dnf
Nigel Coe 11/Jul/99 Lead
uphillnow 04/Aug/91 Lead
Roget 30/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with jon
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Nafclimbsrocks, ned_85, The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!, sting, HumphreyJ20, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, glennofsheff, Hidden, Hidden, stemill, Dan Lane, Birdo, Hidden
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set