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USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

24m.

Rockfax Description
Despite a poor start the upper groove offers superb unrelenting climbing; just keep pushing on and the holds and runners keep arriving. Protection is good once you reach the crack, though the easy bottom wall and grotty cave are worrying! © Rockfax

FA. Jim Fogg 1969 FFA. Hank Pasquill 1981.

Ticklists

Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Wilton wanderers , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Definitive *** Lancs Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si Witcher 15 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A hold dropped off on the crux section pre 2010, making the moves a little harder. Feels like hard 6a / low 6b since. Gear still good. Upgraded to E5 6b in 2016 Lancs Rock def guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hold dropped off on the crux section pre 2010, making the moves a little harder. Feels like hard 6a / low 6b since. Gear still good. Upgraded to E5 6b in 2016 Lancs Rock def guide.

Logged Ascents

32 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bob Hope

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Dovestones Quarry)

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